TEXILE TERMINOLOGY • Fiber Processing• Natural fibers• Manufactured (man-made fibers)• Require some natural resource or polymer• Yarn Spinning• Spun yarns• Filament yarns• Fabric Production• Fabric Finishing END USES OF TEXTILES • 36% Apparel• Men's, women's, children's apparel; hosiery; retail piece goods, craft fabric• 25% Floor coverings• Carpets, rugs, padding• 23% Industrial• Tired, ropes, tents, etc. • 16% Home fashion products• Drapery, upholstery, sheets, etc. FIBER PROCESSING- NATURAL• Fibers produced in the US• Cotton• Requires warm climate and irrigated water• Texas, Georgia, and North Carolina: employment decreasing• Wool: Sheep, goats, alpaca, and llama• Wool production is secondary to meat industry• Texas, Iowa, Ohio, California• Specialty fibers: mohair, cashmere, alpaca• Hemp• Linen and silk mostly imported into USFIBER PROCESSING- MANUFACTURED• Fiber produced in US• Polyester• Nylon• Olefin• Acrylic• Horizontally Integrated• Produce several fibers at same stage• Owned by large chemical companies because of high capital investment of equipment• Dupont• Hoechst Celanese• Monsanto• Dow • Manufactured fibers are most often vertically integrated companies• Manufactured fibers are sold under...• Brand Names: distinguish generic fiber families• Trade Names: distinguish fibers within same generic family• LYRCA spandex (Dupont)• DACRON polyester (Dupont)• FORTREL polyester (Celanese)FIBER: fine, hairlike strand; almost invisibleNATURAL FIBERS• Cotton• Most widely used• Cellulosic (carbohydrate)• Absorbs moisture• Cooling effect• US leads in production• Egypt, 2nd in PIMA (long staple) production• Wool• Coat of sheep• Replenishable• Protein• Natural Insulator• Bulky, traps air• Used from warm clothing • Silk• Cocoon of silkworm• Filament fiber• Luxurious • Breathable • Flax• Fabric is called linen• Produced from the stem of flax plant• Strongest of vegetable fibers• Tendency to wrinkle• Europe- Belgium and Ireland • Hemp• Agricultural history in US• Declaration of Independence written on hemp paper• Today, illegal laws since 1970• Demand is soaring MANUFACTURED FIBERS• Synthetic cellulosic• Rayon• Produced in 1910• FIber comes from soft wood- spruce • Non-cellulosic manufactured• Use of petroleum, coal, natural gas, air, and water• Combinations of carbon, hydrogen• Nylon• Originally used for toothbrush bristlesFABRIC PRODUCTION • Textile Mills• Fabric Construction• Weaving• Hand loomed• Automated• Knitting (stretches)SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY• Environmental• Viable natural environments on which we depend• Social• Nurture communities that nurture your business• Economic • Sufficient income and strong bran and reliable relationships • All three= equitable social ecology • The 3 P's• Profit-People-Plant YARNS AND MILLS• Spinning fibers • Spinning wheel• 18th century, british developed mechanized spinning• Yarn dyed- yarns are dyed before weavnig • Piece dyed- fabrics dyed after weaving• Develop fabrics 2 years ahead of season POLYMERSGENERIC NAMES/TRADENAMES • Acetate-Celanese• Acrylic/Modacrylic-Acrilan • Lyocell/New Rayon- lenzing/tencel• Nylon-Antron• Olefin• Polyester (1940s)-Fortrel (Wrinkle Free)• Spandex- Lycra FIBER INDUSTRY• Textile fibers product identification act• 1960• Consumer products required to label products by...• Country where processed/manufactured• Generic name of each fiber used more than 5%• Fibers listed in order• Extensive adverstising and market research• American Fiber Manufacturers Association• Manufactured fibers have 75% usage in US• Cotton Incorporated MICROFIBERS• 1989- Technological breakthrough• DuPont• 2 times smaller than human hair• Thinnest/finest of all manufactured fibers• Touch/texture similar to silk/cashmere• Used widely TEXTILE CONVERTERS• Greige goods- unfinshed fabric• Understand trend/colors• Work quickly to develop textile designs• Offer fashion oriented goods in small yardages INDUSTRY FASHION EXPERTS • Color association of the US• Pantone • 19 year old textile color system• Color forecasting • Newletters• Reports• Color swatches TRADESHOWS• *Premiere Vision- Paris France • Ideacomo- Como, Italy "GREEN" SCENE• Influence consumers to buy fewer cothes • Choose eco-friendly materials • Wash less often• Keep clothes longer- classics• Recycled fibers • Fortrell eco-spun- recycled soda bottles• Ingeo • Soy• BambooHigh-Tech Fabrics· Coating/Laminating· Innovative Yarns—Kevlar “Geotextiles”· Metallic Threads· Plastic· Vinyl· Reflective MaterialsGlobal Textile Industry· Imports control 90% of U.S. apparel market· U.S. leading exporter of raw cotton· U.S. companies acquiring textile mills abroad for lower wages· U.S. is leader in home furnishing textiles· Blended fibers—combined yarns Leather and fur Chapter 7The leather industry· Leather and fur are the oldest, most sought after, and most glamorous of textiles· Both leather and fur are animal skinso One side of the skin is leather, the other is fur· The leather industry is currently expanding its marketsLeather production· By-product of animals raised for meat· Water resistant· Leather production is a slow process· Styling and color decisions made 6-18 months ahead of season· SustainableTypes of Tanneries· Regularo Purchase and process skins and hides into leather· Contracto Process skins and hides for converters, but are not involved in the final sale of the leather· ConvertersCategories of leather· Exotic leathers:o Aquatic: frog, seal, sharko Land: camelo Reptile: alligatorFur Production· Considered luxury product· Pelts are unshorn skins of animal· U.S. largest consumer market for fur· U.S. 3rd largest producer of raw fur· Divided into 2 categorieso Farm raised§ 64% of fur farms in Northern Europeo Wild fur§ Surplus of fur bearing animal, not endangeredFur Trade· Fur pelts are sold at auctions to fur processors· Tanning process is tawningo Uses salt, water, alum, soda ash, sawdust, cornstarch, and lanolino Natural and nontoxico Produces neutral waste water with pH of 7Fur