CTE 1401C FINAL EXAM STUDY GUIDE Finishes An Introduction Finishing Often the last step before the product reaches the consumer The term finishing sometimes also includes coloration Finishing is usually performed on greige goods fabrics that have just come off the weaving or knitting machine with no finishing processes Application of finishes Topical after the product is made Must be on natural products made from natural fibers Generally used on most consumer products Least expensive way Solution applied in the solution for the manufactured fibers Finishes Permanent Durable Temporary Permanent Finishes Last the lifetime of the product Usually permanently set in the product Often utilize characteristics of synthetic fabrics Heat sensitive fibers subjected to finishes involving heat treatment Durable Finishes Usually have a certain lifespan Involves resin chemical or mechanical treatments Temporary Finishes Removed after one or two launderings or dry cleanings Starch finish Calendering 61B 61A Mechanical finish Types of Calendaring Simple Pass fabrics between a series of two or more rollers Purpose smooth fabric or create interesting surface effects Glazing Cire ing Embossing Schreinering Moir Simple Calendering Calendar Finishing Machine Calendered Fabric Glazing Dried slightly Polishes fabric 59B 59A Cire ing High surface polish the wet look Natural fibers waxes or resins 58B 58A Embossing Dampened cloth passed between the heated cylinders Smoothes flattens the yarns fabric Produces wrinkle free slightly glossy finish Fabric saturated with starch or resin Fed into machine with rapidly moving heated roller Fabric examples chintz or polished cotton Fabrics made with thermoplastic fibers fuse slightly under heat of rollers Pressing a pattern onto fabrics Permanent when applied to thermoplastic fibers Durable when applied to fabrics with resin treatment Temporary on other fabrics 67B 67A Embossing Rolls Schreinering Produces fabrics with soft luster soft hand One of calender rolls embossed with 250 fine diagonal lines per inch Flattens yarns Examples damask cotton sateen Schreinering Process Moir Watered or clouded appearance Ribbed fabrics taffeta faille Two lengths of same fabric placed face to face with one slightly off grain Enormous pressure by smooth moir rollers Pillow made using moire finished fabric Other Surface Finishes Linen or cotton intended to look like lustrous linen Fabric is pounded machine with hammers Flattens yarns makes them more lustrous Sueding Fiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve low pile Applied to woven knitted fabrics Sueding sanding abrasive material used Fiber ends are brushed up onto fabric surface to achieve deeper pile Usually made from fabrics with low twist yarns Machine with hook like projections catch fibers pull them to fabric surface 66B 66 Moire fabric Beetling Sueding Napping Beetling Sample 8 Napping 63B 63A Napped Fabric Blankets Sleepwear Sweaters Warm active wear Brushing Brushed denim Brushed tricot 64B 64A Design Finishes 100 Design Finishes Plisse puckered effect Other area does not shrink 67B 67A Parchmentizing Permanent stiffening of cotton Fabrics made from staple fibers may be brushed to remove loose fiber from fabric surface Burn out designs chemicals dissolve some of the fibers while leaving others unharmed Created by imprinting chemicals that cause fabric to shrink in imprinted areas Application of acid solution causes surface of yarns to soften Afterwash in cold water causes yarn surface to harden permanently 73B 73A Functional Finishes Most are not visible Objectives Finishes that enhance performance of material List the various finishes and describe their effect on performance of fab rics Functional Finish Terminology Repellent or retardant or resistant example water repellent or flame resistant Slows down the process whether it is burning wetting etc but does not completely stop process Proof such as waterproof flameproof Completely blocks process such as burning wetting Stage at which finishes are added Topical added after material is made all natural fibers and some manufactured fibers Solution added in solution when fiber is manufactured More expensive must bond with other chemicals Water Repellence and Waterproof Water repellent fabrics resist penetration by water but are not completely waterproof Accomplished by chemical finishes and or fabric construction Waterproof Water droplets cannot penetrate By coating with plastic or rubber By use of unique fabric construction such as in Gore tex Soil and Stain Repellent Topical finishes that resist penetration by water and oil based stains food dirt Two examples are Scotchgard and Zepel Soil Release Finishes Developed for hydrophobic fibers that absorb and hold soil particularly oil based stains Finishes make the fiber more hydrophilic so the water and detergent can get into the fabric fibers and release the soil stain Anti static Finishes Conditions for static electric charge build up are cool dry environment Manufactured fibers build up static electric charges because they are hydrophobic and do not allow conduction of electrical charges Anti static finishes Healthy adult human body can tolerate about 5000 volts 5kV of electrical charges In some areas that is too much for safety In sensitive areas where there might be life sustaining equipment or other electronics the maximum allowable is 3500 v 3 5kV In areas where there would life threatening situations the maximum allowable is 2500 v Anti static finishes Anti static finishes work by making the material a better conductor of electrical charges This often means the material must become more absorbent Website www fabriclink com Anti bacterial anti microbial finishes Inhibit the growth of bacteria on materials Often used in health care products hotel restaurant industry home furnishings athletic products Mold mildew and fungus will grow on some textile materials when they are in a damp en Anti mildew anti rot vironment Cellulosic fibers may be damaged beyond repair Other fibers are often stained Sun Protective Finishes The incidence of skin cancer and melanoma is increasing at an alarming rate worldwide from 200 000 new cases in 1980 to 1 000 000 new cases in 1997 Sun Protective Finishes The sun emits UVA and UVB rays which are harmful to the skin regardless of skin color People who suffer sunburns and extended exposure to the sun s rays often develop skin cancer Sun Protection Research has shown that