CTE 3763 Exam 3 Study Guide 04 13 2015 Garment Lengths NECKLINES Frame the neck provide an opening for the head May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding OR may be further embellished with a collar Can make something stand out May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shape Component Parts terminology readily used in the industry The elements of a garment that are not part of its basic structure o Can be aesthetic functional or both Includes collars cuffs pockets and belts COLLARS Component parts that surround the neck Are attached permanently or temporarily detachable o Flat Collar Same shape as the neckline Popular on children s clothes they create a youthful feel on adult garments Examples include Peter Pan collars Bertha collars and sailor collars Stand Collar Edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve This straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neck Examples include turtleneck collars mandarin collars and tie collars o Gathered Circular Ruffle Collars Flounces A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam o Cowl Collars Variation of the turtleneck o Tailored Collar Manipulate the core elements to make many variations Can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break point Not all rolled collars have notches Require more careful shaping during construction Take more taping construction Have interfacing to give them body dimension May be used on jackets coats and dresses Can be the focal point o Collar Details Stand fits close to the neck Fall turns over the stand or garment Roll Line the line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style Line the shape of the outer edge Lapels designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline where lapel turn back Break Point point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge Line where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends Partial Roll Collars o Straighter than the neckline o Stand at the back but lie flat on the front o Examples include Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars o Shawl Collars Similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line No gorge line no notch SLEEVE STYLES Sleeves are designed to fit the armscye or armhole CUFF STYLES The main outer fabric from which a garment is made is called the body the fashion or the shell fabric This is the basic main fabric of the garment Underlying fabrics Always inside the garment not seen o Compatible to outer shell o Care determines compatibility Shape retention durability Quality Indicator Can be for aesthetic inner beauty or support or body o May be strictly functional or aesthetic Lend support to the garment help maintain its shape o Aka supporting fabrics devices 4 Types of Underlying fabrics o Interfacing interlining extra layer of supporting fabric Support fabric usually hidden even on the inside usually between the garment and its facing Sewn between fabrics Gives body shape and reinforcement the garment Interfacings are placed in areas where there is lots of wear collars cuffs buttonholes pocket openings waistbands to limited areas of A real sheer fabric such as lace would need interfacing Usually ironed on for functionality o Lining constructed of lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior Sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance INNER BEAUTY Big quality indicator Covers all seam allowances Cannot see seams Garment is more comfortable to wear Used in outerwear Easier to slip garment on Extends the life of garment Provides extra body shape support Less apt to wrinkle 1 function of lining aesthetic function o Underlining Involves lining each major piece of the garment individually Less costly than lining because it requires little Sewn as 1 unit additional labor Does have ALL seam allowances other construction details exposed on the inside Seams are visible but still functional Less for inner beauty more for function Used mostly on sheer fabrics to make them less see through and give them a little more body o Interlining Applied strictly for additional warmth Included in cold weather garments such as coats jackets Includes all materials inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric the lining Nothing to do with aesthetics strictly functional Support Devices Most common o underlying fabrics o shoulder pads o stay tape Shoulder pads polyester fiberfill Sleeve headers polyester fiberfill Collar stays o Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses o Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or o Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses o Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or o Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling o May be permanent or removable o Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses o Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Boning Seam tapes o Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon o Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel o EX Stay tape Bra cups o Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline o Usually made of fiberfill or foam Findings Trim Labels Quality Indicators o Important for functionality of the fabric o Compatibility is important o Aesthetic tools we use to create focal points in designs o Thread must be compatible o Key to performance of the garment play a key role in the aesthetic performance color pattern color Findings consistency luster opacity hand of garment Include o support material o closures o thread o elastic o labels Support Materials Include o Interlinings o Linings o Support devices see above Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Thread a strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments Selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness ability to form stitches Functionality of the thread has to match the fabric used fabric weights and end use need elastic thread for workout clothes etc Fabric thread also has to be compatible with the care of the garment May be the least costly component of a garment but the improper selection or specification can
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