CTE 3763 EXAM 3 Slide 1 Know Names of garment lengths 04 17 2014 Skirts micro mini knee midi maxi floor Shorts above knee bikini short Bermuda deck Slack below knee pedal pushers capri classic Names of necklines collars Necklines frame the neck and provide an opening for the head o May be finished with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or further embellished with a collar o Round square scooped sweatheart or V shaped Collars component parts that surround the neck o Attached permanently or temporarily o most common Jewel crew Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined the gorge line ends Collars Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where o Partial roll collars straighter than the neckline stand at the back but lie flat on the front i e Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars o Flat collars same shape of the neckline popular on children s clothes i e peter pan collars bertha collars sailor collars o Stand collars edges are straight in relation to neckline examples turtleneck collars shirt collars mandarin collars tie collars Gathered circular ruffled collars Flounces o A greater curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds o Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam o o Cowl Collars variation of turtleneck o Tailored collars require more careful shaping during construction o May be used on jackets coats dresses o Can be focal point and or changed dramatically by raising or o can be dramatically changed by raising lowering the lowering the break point break point o Shawl collars o Similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line o Cuffs o Most common barrel cuff or shirt cuff a straight open band cuff style o Sleeve styles sleeves are designed to fit the armscye or armhole Most common Set in sleeves which resembles a tub hanging from the armhole pg 182 Slide 2 Findings and Trim the main outer fabric from which a garment is made is called the body the fashion or the shell fabric findings include support materials closures thread elastic labels play a key role in aesthetic performance of a garment interlining interfacing underlining and lining not included in garment label sizing Aesthetic perf of Trims Findings o Color pattern color consistency luster opacity hand o PD are always looking for newer treatments to define garment and make it more compelling support materials closures thread FINDINGS include elastic labels devices o SUPPORT MATERIALS interlinings linings and support Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Most common underlying fabrics shoulder pads stay tape UNDERLYING fabrics or supporting fabrics are inside the garment o QA o aesthetic of the garment o always under the garment lend support to the garment and help maintain shape FOUR TYPES interfacing lining underlining interlining o 1 INTERFACING INTERLINING an extra layer of supporting fabric Supplies body shape reinforcement to areas of the garment Not seen collars cuffs buttonholes pocket openings and waistbands places where there is a lot of wear usually ironed on o 2 LINING a lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior Quality indicator Adds to support and shape retention OUTERWEAR Constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance Covers all seam allowances Garment is more comfortable to wear Easier to slip garment on Extends the life of garment Provides extra body shape and support Aesthetic inner beauty but also quality Less apt to wrinkle indicator o 3 UNDERLYNING Involves lining each major piece of the garment individually Less costly than lining because it requires little additional labor Does have ALL seam allowances and other construction details exposed on the inside Strictly for add WARM FUNCTIONALITY In cold weather garments i e coats jackets Includes all materials inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric lining o 4 INTERLINING o SUPPORT DEVICES Shoulder pads collar stays sleeve headers Shoulder pads Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layer of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill Sleeve headers Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs wool tailor s canvas or fiberfill Sewn into the sleeve cap of the tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Collar stays OTHERS Boning Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Seam tape ribbon Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to Bra cups Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bust line Usually made of fiberfill or foam LINING inner beauty functional cannot see seams UNDERLINING seams are visible but still functional INTERLINING warmth Closures Thread a strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments o Selected for its color size strength elasticity spandex lycra colorfastness ability to form stitches aesthetic functional o Right thread for the quality and durability of the garment o QUALITY DURABILITY IMPACT o Seam failure lack of compatibility btwn thread fabric o Polester nylon melts P stretches o Monogramming embroidery o Also used for embroidery monograms o o Thread type spun corespun and filament LEAST costly component of product Proper selection is important for aesthetic and Improper selection spec can cause garment failure functionality of the product o SPUN staple fibers spun into single yarns Spun polyester MOST COMMON Elastic abrasion resistant Suitable for noncritical seams Fast fashion Not best performance fast Elastic inexpensive STRONG o CORESPUN thread a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers most common Superior sewability Fine stronger than spun durability will last elastic flexible
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