CTE3763 Exam 2 Review Seams Recognize seam classes LS SS BS FS and EF from graphic images and written descriptions o Superimposed Seam SS created by superimposing fabric piles or stacking them on top of one another with edges even and sewing them together near the edge o Lapped Seams LS made by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more fabric piles and sewing them together with the fabric piles extending in opposite directions o Bound Seams BS are made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges only found at edges o Flat Seams FS join fabric piles whose raw edges are abutted and sewn together o Edge Finished Stitches EF are a series of stitches that finishes an edge Recognize common seam names from graphic images and written description o Plain Seam SSa a simple superimposed seam o Enclosed seam operator sews the fabric plies face sides together near the edge opens out the plies and turns them back sides together to encase the seam allowances o French Seam a seam within a seam SSae 2 o Mock French seam used to create the appearance of a French seam at more cost effective rates o Flat felled seam LSc most common type of LS made by folding under or felling the raw edges of both seam allowances as the seam is stitched o Tuck and slot seam tuck seams are when the seam is stitched farther back to create a small flap slot seams are a decorative lapped seam o Welt seam LSq made by superimposing two plies with the edges uneven and sewing a plain seam both seam allowances are pressed in one direction and topstitched to catch the wider seam allowance Recognize seam finishes from graphic images and written description o Shirttail hems EFb is a narrow hem that is folded under twice and topstitched in place the hem stitched o Rolled hems EFw is a very narrow hem that is rolled up to enclose the raw edge of o Clean finish EFa the raw edge of a seam or hem allowance is folded under once and o Booked or tailored seams SSba are plain seams butterflied with the raw edges of the seam allowance folded under and blind stitched o Overedging EFd simplest and most common using 500 class stitches trims the raw edge while simultaneously overcasting it with thread Recognize seam defects from graphic images and written description o Restitched seams broken stitches Where a splice occurs on the stitch line o Skipped stitches Where the stitch length is inconsistent possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length or where you can see the thread in the stitch is not properly connected together o Open seam Seam failure Stitch Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitchline o Open seam Seam failure fabric Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured o Seam slippage Where the yarn in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge o Seam puckering Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitchline o Seam grin Where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted stitch too loose and you can see the seam opening up o Improper stitch balance Where the loops are seen on either side of the fabric seam Matching seams Superimposed Edge Finish Lapped Seam Bound Seam Matching Flat Seam o 1 Seam allowance o 2 Seam line o 3 Raw edge o 4 Garment Matching Seam Finishes 2 1 4 3 Bound Finish Matching Seam Defects Pinked Finish Overcast serged Clean Finish Skipped Stitches Improper stitch balance Seam Grin Seam Slippage Hems and Edge Treatments Recognize o Hem any finish at the edge of a garment o Hem allowance amount turned under in a hem The width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and hem edge o Hem edge the raw edge of the hem o Hemline the edge of the garment o Types of hems Turned up hem folded hem A simple hem in which the raw edge is turned under and stitched to the garment Shirttail hem narrow hem folded under twice and topstitched in place Rolled hem very narrow hem rolled up and stitched to the garment to enclose the raw edge of the hem Clean finish edge treatment made by folding under the raw edge once and stitching it in place also called turned and stitched Hand overcasting series of evenly spaced diagonal stitches covering the seam or hem allowance edges to retard unraveling Shell hem hem that features a scalloped effect created by a decorative shell stitch that attaches the narrow folded hem allowance to the garment Lettuce edge hem hem created by stretching the edge as it is stitched so that it ripples attractively Faced Hem Enclosed Edge Hem Recognize facings face o Shaped or Separate Facing fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they o Extended facing Simplest type of facing Require least labor and add least bulk to garment Used less than shaped facing sue to more fabric usage Can only be used on straight edges o Bias Facing Narrow bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges Require little fabric Most cost efficient Useful for sheer fabrics Not suited for intricately shaped edges Low in bulk Zippers o Identify Zipper parts from a graphic image o o Stops parts of the zipper that prevent the slider from leaving the chain at either end of o Pull portion of the zipper that is grasped to operate the slider also called the tab o Slider portion of the zipper that glides up and down the chain engaging and disengaging the two halves of the chain the zipper o Chain o Tape Be able to identify common zipper application methods from either graphic image or description o o Lapped application characterized by only one line of visible stitching on the outside of the garment the topstitching is on one side of the opening o Centered Slot application characterized by two visible rows of topstitching on the outside of the garment one on either side of the zipper chain o Invisible zipper constructed so that the chain is concealed beneath the tape when the zipper is closed o Exposed zipper application in which chin shows Pocket Styles Recognize pocket from graphic image or description o o Patch pockets Hem part of pocket opening that folds to the inside and finishes at the opening Opening unstitched section allows hand to enter the sack Pocket sack bag or pouch that forms pocket o In seam pockets Pocket bag is inside the garment The opening is stitched into the seam o Exposed in seam pockets o Slashed or Welt Pockets A slit in the garment finished with a welt or flap or zipper Pocket bag inside the garment Recognize the continuum of quality of pocket styles at both high end and value level Define o Opening
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