Seam classes 3763 EXAM 2 o Lapped Seam LS are made by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more fabric piles and sewing them together with the fabric piles extending in opposite directions o Superimposed Seam SS majority of seams created by superimposing fabric plies or stacking them on top of one another with edges even and sewing them together near the edge o Bound Seam BS made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges found only at edges o Flat Seam FS join fabric plies whose raw edges are abutted and sewn together o Edge finish Stitching EF are series of stitches that finish an edge Seam Names o French Seam Seam within a seam looks like a plain seam on outside of garment gives an attractive finished appearance on the inside of garment raw edges enclosed very expensive Found on outerwear and Transparent fabric o Plain Seam the simplest seam to make and is the basis for many other seams It is a good choice for the novice sewer This seam can be used on woven and knit fabrics and on straight or curved areas It can be constructed by hand or machine o Flat Felled designed for woven fabrics and straight edges It is used when constructing items requiring strong durable seams It is generally made with a sewing machine and can be difficult to construct on heavy fabric No seam finish is necessary o Enclosed Seam sews the fabric plies face sides together near the edge opens out the plies and turns them back sides together to encase the seam allowance o Welt Seam made by superimposing two plies with the raw edges uneven and sewing a plain seam both seam allowances are pressed in one direction and topstitched to catch the wider seam allowance Seam finishes o Clean finish used occasionally in moderate and high quality garments to neatly and attractively finish edges inside the garment turned over the seam allowance and stitched o Plain finish when plain seam is left untreated garments that will be fully lined o Pinked finish for fabrics that don t fray easily suede felt or flannel o Bound finish covering the raw edges of each ply with a folded ribbon tape or bias binding o Overcast Finish A series of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance most common single ply finish in ready to wear Used on medium weight fabric Machine sewn alternative o Double stitched finish Made on a plain seam by placing a second row of stitching through both plies of the seam allowance Used to reinforce a plain seam when additional finishes are not needed Found on sheer and transparent fabrics and laces Knits jerseys and tricot fabrics o Book finish The raw edge of each seam allowance is folded under and secured to the seam allowance ply by a concealed blind stitch o Net Bound finish encasing the raw edge of each seam allowance within a folded net strip metallic fabrics Seam defects o Seam Pucker lack of seam smoothness or bucking of the fabric along a row of stitches o Raw edge a hole in the seam not caused by broken stitches but by not stitching both seam allowances deeply enough causes both or one seam allowances to pull away from the seam stitching o Broken seam occurs when the stitched break and the seam splits apart or bursts o Seam Slippage most often found in garments of coarsely woven fabrics occurs when the fabric pulls away from the stitches at the seam line eventually producing a raw edge o Seam grin occurs when the seam line spreads open exposing the stitches so they appear similar to teeth in a grin or smile Hems and edge treatments o Hem any finish at the edge of a garment o Hem allowance the width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and hem edge o Hem edge raw edge of the hem o Hemline The edge of the garment Types of hems o Turned up hem hem allowance folded up inside garment can be once or doubled hand stitched machine stitched or fused inconspicuous Recognize facings o Faced hem often used for flared or curved edges o Enclosed edge hem allowance raw edge is enclosed banded or binded more flare o Narrow hems garments with a lot of flare the narrow the hem the o Double needle hem often used on denim o Lettuce edge hem created by stretching the edge as it is stitched so that it ripples attractively o Other hem forms unless meant to be decorative should be o Shaped or separate facing fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they face should be cut on the seam grain sewn on not folded back separate facing usually interfaced to add body or support o Securing facing topstitching is used more often on sportswear at all price points seam allowance of this facing is stitched to the seam allowance of the garment can be hand sewn but only used in high end ready to wear o Extended facing simplest type cut out as extension of the garment then folded back along the edge it finishes requires the least labor and adds the least bulk only used on straight edges o Bias facing narrow bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges form neat inconspicuous facing little fabric used most cost efficient useful for sheer fabrics Zipper Parts Tape Common application methods include pictures on page 309 310 o Lapped characterized by only one line of visible stitching on the outside of a garment o Slot or Centered application characterized by two visible rows of topstitching on the outside of the garment one on either side of the zipper chain o Exposed zipper application in which zipper chain shows o Fly Front form of lapped zipper characterized by topstitching on one side of the opening about 1 inches from the folded seam line one side is stitched to a facing and the facing is topstitched to the garment o Invisible zipper constructed so that the chain is concealed beneath the tape when the zipper is closed Common waistline styles POCKET STYLES o Patch piece of fabric attached like a patch to the outside of the garment also called applied pocket o In Seam pocket that is set into a seam of the garment usually the side seam of skirts pants dresses and coats o Welt bound slashed pocket o Flap pocket with piece of fabric extending down over pocket opening o Exposed pocket sewn in the seam with fashion fabric forming the exposed portion o Double Welt slashed pocket with two lips Pocket Parts o Opening unstitched section allows hand to enter the sack o Hem part of pocket opening that folds to inside finishes the opening o Sack pouch that forms the pocket Buttonholes o Stitched buttonholes either straight or keyhole o Bound buttonholes made of
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