FINAL EXAM REVIEW CTE 3763 Apparel Analysis & Costing !MATCHING !1. Ready- to- wear- Pret-A-Porter !2. Vertical integration- Manufacturer owned & operated factories !3. Independent business hired to provide production services- Contractor !4. Private Label- Proprietary brands !5. Brand Label- Store brand !KNOW GLOBAL TRADE TERMS !Import-the buying goods from another country. Export-the selling of goods to another country. Trade Deficit- when a country imports more goods than it exports. Embargo-prohibition of importing a product. Tariff- also known as duties are taxes paid to a government for importing. Rates established by congress. Quota- limit the quantity of items that may be imported. NAFTA( North American Free Trade Agreement)- Policy creating a single North American market for goods originating in the United States, Canada and Mexico. EU- Trading Bloc of European countries TFPIA(Textile Fiber Identification Act)- Federal law requiring that all apparel sold in the United States have a label that identifies fiber contet, manufacturer, and country of origin. !▪Trademark- A symbol, word(s) legally registered or established by use as representing a company or product.▪Trade Dress- refers to the shape of features of the product itself that are not only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product. ▪Patent-exclusive right to produce an item. ▪Counterfeit vs Knockoff ▪Counterfeit products are reproduced to pass as a certain brand or company while Knockoffs are not exact replicas but are meant to look the same as another brand or companies product. !K N O W CMT- A contractor that completes all aspects of production to manufacture the garment. Subcontractor- Also known as a specialty contractor. Completes a portion of a garnet that requires special skills & equipment. -belt making -pleating -covering buttons -printing -fagotting Jobber- An Independent contractor hired by a manufacturer to outsource the product of entire garments or partially complete component parts. Full Package Supplier- services provided by contractors to: -Furnish Materials -Complete cutting & assembly of garments -used by: designers, product developers, retail manufacturers Licensing- The process by which a manufacturer (licensee) pays a fee to an individual or company (licensor) for the privilege f affixing the licensor’s name, trademark, or logo to the licensee’s product. FOB-Free on board, the contractor is responsible (owns) until the goods are loaded onto a transporting vehicle. Landed cost- total production costs plus shipping costs and duty charges !COSTING, PRICING & PROFIT Know the difference between phases of costing: !▪Pre-costing- Preliminary costing.- and estimate of how much production will cost. ▪Production Costing- How much it cost to fully produce a product down to the actual amount. FIBER, YARN, FABRIC !Physical features of fabric- ▪Fiber: •Manufactured Fibers •Natural Fibers •Denier- a direct system; the larger the #, the larger the fiber. •Tex- For international use; based on metric system. ▪Yarn: Thread Types: (know characteristics of thread types) 1. Spun Thread- Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns • Spun polyester- most common o Elastic o Abrasion resistant o Suitable for noncritical seams !2. Corespun Thread- A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers • Fine • Stronger than spun threads • Elastic • Less apt to cause puckering • Subject to needle heating • Usually the BEST choice for critical seams !3. Filament Thread- limited use, clear thread resembling a finishing line • Monofilament- most common o Ruptures o Irritates when next to the skin o Cost effective as it blends into fabric & eliminates need to match thread to fabric • Multifilament- very strong and abrasion resistant o However too strong for many fabric ▪Fabric Structure:•Knit •Woven -plain weave -twill weave -satin weave ▪Color and applied design: •Dyeing - add color to undyed fabrics, called greige goods(gray goods) -Dye Applications: 1. Fiber Dyeing, solution or dope 2. Yarn Dyed 3. Piece Dyed 4. Garment Dyeing •Printing- the application of design to the fabric using dyes or pigments. !KNOW & UNDERSTAND Elongation- the ration of the extension of a material to its length prior to stretching, expressed as a % Progressive Shrinkage- A type of shrinkage in which the materials shrinks a little each time it is cleaned. Tolerances-The range of acceptable values Appearance Retention- The ability of a fabric to stay the same color, retain creases, resist wrinkle, snagging and pilling and withstood the heat of care processes determines whether the garment maintains its original appearance. Dimensional Stability- Relates to the ability to: neither stretch nor shrink. Torque or skewness = fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other. !!STANDARDS, SIZE, & SPECIFICATIONS Define: ▪Size-Based o garment measurements ▪Fit- Based on body measurements 5 elements: •Grain-reflects the direction of the threads •Ease- is the amount of difference between the body measurements and garment.•Line- the structural lines of the garment conform to the lines of the body. •Set •Balance ▪Standards: A generalization of requirements for a garment. ▪Sizing Specification: •Must be clearly communicated on specification sheets for patternmaking and sampling •Sample garment measurements must be checked against the spec sheet before a garment "goes into full "production ▪Van it y si zi ng ▪Size migration Grading: Process of scaling the master size (sample size) of a garment to the range of sizes to be produced •Grade rules: The amounts added or subtracted from each measurement as it changes from one size to the next MATCHING !The amount of difference between body measurements and the garment •Ease Based on garment measurements •Sizing Based on body measurements •Fit Measurement from crotch level to the top of waistband •Rise STITCHES Be able to identify stitch classes: o100- Single-thread chain stitch !o200- Hand stitching: extremely expensive if done by hand. o300- Lock stitch: rely on interlocking threads, uses a bobbin •uses the least amount of thread •flattest stitch o400- Chain Stitch: rely on
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