CTE 3763 Test 2 Review The blue font represents what Steed put on the test revew Seams SS Superimposed Seams Recognize seam classes LS SS BS FS EF from graphic images and written description Most used seam class Most common seam is 301SSa The cut edges of the fabric layers are stacked on top of one another to form a Booked Seam ready for stitching Butted means the seam is pressed open like a butterfly LS Lapped Seams Formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more pies of fabric and sewing them together Has the most variations such as jeans leather men s dress shirts Flat felt Seams The type of LS seam used in denim for straight topstitching only FS Flat Seams Looks the same on both sides Formed by sewing raw edges together with a 600 class zigzag stitch Economical stitch No seam allowance Zigzag stitch Knits Raw edges stitched together BS Bound Seams Made by encasing the raw edges of a seam with fabric strips decreased due to serging High end detail labored expensive contrast EF Edge Finish Stitching Stitches that are applied to finish an edge or for ornamental purposes Recognize common seam names from graphic images and written description French Seam Specialized seam A seam within a seam Inner Beauty Expensive because it s completely finished on the inside Used in couture Seam line The stitched line of a seam Parallel to and always a specified distance from the raw edge of the fabric Seam allowance or seam margin The narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric in straight seams commercially produced in curves Large seam allowance represents quality Smaller seam allowance saves on fabric Standards for Evaluating Seam Types 1 Seam classification must be cohesive with the fabric 2 Seams should be straight and even 3 Same distance from the edge 4 Lay straight smooth flat and without puckering ASTM International 6 Seam Classes 4 MAJOR CLASSES Superimposed Seams Lapped Seams Bound Seams Flat Seams Ornamental Stitching Top stitching sometimes also structural Gives emphasized stylelines Edge Finishes Ornamental purpose method of finishing an edge while stitching ASTM seam identifications are written into specifications by Using two uppercase letters that identify the seam class Followed by a lowercase letter or letters that identify the seam type Notation format for identifying stitches and seams on specification sheets Seam strength is affected by Type and width of seam Strength and tendency ravel of the fabric to ravel Characteristics of the stitches Seam Finishes The finish should not add bulk to the seam A variety of finishes are used in the industry Plain Finish When a plain seam is left untreated Used on garments that will be fully lined Clean Finish Turned over the seam allowance and stitched Medium to lightweight fabrics Pinked Finish Raw edges are trimmed with Pinking Shears which cut little zigzag lines Only used on fabrics that don t fray easily Bound Finish Covering the raw edges of each ply with a folded ribbon tape or bias binding Quality Overcast Finish A series of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance Double Stitched Finish Two rows of parallel strait stitches Bias Seam Forms horizontal softness Mostly found in skirts Edge Finishes Methods other than hems include Facings Most facings are 2 3 wide In lower priced garments this can be reduced to save on fabric In higher priced garments the facing at center back neckline is cut several inches wider this looks attractive because it hides inner construction while garment is on the hanger Cut on Facings Bias Strip 1 Shaped or Separate Facings Fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they face Should be cut on the same grain as the garment piece they face Ideal for shaped necklines hems sleeveless armholes as they conform to any shape Shaped facings are SEWN ON not FOLDED BACK 2 Extended Facing The simplest type of facing Require least labor add the least bulk to garment Used less than shaped facing due to more fabric usage Can only be used on straight edges 3 Bias Facing a Narrow bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges b Form a neat inconspicuous facing approximately wide c Require little fabric d Most cost efficient e Useful for sheer fabrics f g Not suited for intricately shaped edges Low in bulk Seam Allowance Garment Seam Raw Edges Bound Finish Pinked Finish Overcast Serged Finish Clean Finish Recognize seam defects from graphic images and written description Skipped Stitch Improper Stitch Balance Seam Grin Seam Slippage Hems and Other Edge Treatments Recognize Hem Any finish at the edge of a garment May be referred to as EF Edge Finishing Keeps the edges of woven goods from raveling Hem allowance The width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and hem edge Hem edge The raw edge of the hem Hemline The edge of the garment Hem finish Application for neatening the hem edge Types of hems Turned up Hem Single double rolled most common Faced Hem Used on a curved or flared hem Enclosed Edge Hem Binding or banding Hem Stitches Hand Overcast Stitch Lockstitch Blindstitch Machine Blindstitch Hemmer Recognize seam finishes from graphic images and written description Hem or Seam Finishes Narrow Hems Double Needle Ruffle Hemlines Asymmetrical Hemlines Scalloped Hem Intensive labor Faggoting Stitch Hem Usually the treatment of the fabric Very expensive Lettuce Edged Hem Ripples Lace Unless a hem is meant to be decorative it should be inconspicuous Other Hem Forms Leather can be glued or top stitched but often fused Crochet Evaluations Guide for Hems Hemline appears parallel to the floor unless designed to be asymmetrical Hem is consistent in size and shape from one end to another Hem is flat and smooth with no wrinkles ridges twists pucks or pleats Hem finish is appropriate for the fabric design and cost of garment All topstitching and edge stitching is stitched an even distance from the edge Hem is comfortable to wear and aesthetically pleasing Recognize facings Underlying Fabrics Always inside the garment Lend support to the garment help maintain its shape 1 Interfacing Interlining which is an extra layer of supporting fabric that supplies body shape and reinforcement to areas of the garment buttonholes collars Lining Lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior 2 3 Underlining Involves lining each major piece of garment individually Less costly than 4 lining Has all seam allowances and
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