DIAMETER – width of the buttonEYES – holes in the buttonLIGNES – measurement (1/40”) used to specifySHANK – small rink of eye on the underside of the buttonTHICKNESS – button depthThe continuum of button quality would place the high–end button as the:A. 2-holeB. 4-holeC. Metal shankD. Plastic shankButton Loops- Used at garment edges as a closure and a design elementSanps- Two parts-a ball and a socketHook-and-eye- Paired fastener used to fasten garments securely and inconspicuouslyHook Tape- Bulky , holds strongShape- a silhouette is smaller shapes put together within the garment using seams.Smaller shapes:-Interest-Achieve Fit-Combinations of FabricsShape lets the designer:-Create optical illusion through line-Proportion-Balance-RhythmShaping devices - mold the garment to the contours of the body(to achieve fit)Silhouette- Outline or shape of a garment.Seams and Edge TreatmentsThe Seam line is the stitched line of the seam, parallel to and always a speci-fied distance from the raw edge of the fabric.Seam Allowance/Margin is the narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric.Seam Types are influenced by…• Appearance• Durability• Comfort• Ease of AlternationThe ASTM has established 6 seam classes:4 major:• (SS) Superimposed • (LS) Lapped• (BS) Bound• (FS) FlatAs well as:• (OS) Ornmental stitching• (ES) Edge FinishesASTM seam identifications are written into specifications by - uppercase seam class- lowercase seam typeSS Class:• Most used seam class• 301SSa most common • Plain seam, cut edges stacked on each other ready for stitching.LS Class:• more than 100 variations, largest seam class• Overlapping seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric to be sewn to-gether.• Flat-felled seams most common type.BS Class:• Encasing the raw edges with a strip of fabric.• increased serving and use of knits that don't ravel bound seams are de-creasing.FS Class:• Same on both sides• raw edges together and securing with a 600-class cover or zigzag stitch. Edge Finshing:• Prevent raveling of woven fabricsSeam Performance- depends on how it is stitched, pressed, and finished.Fit, Fabric, Care of garmentStregth affected by:• type and width of seam allowance• tendency to ravel• stich characteristicsUnraveling is caused by a broken or skipped stitch.Seam finishes:A. Look neatB. Add strength C. Prevent ravel(knit)D. Prevent rolling(woven)E. Prevent stretching1.Plain finish- untreated and will be fully lined.2.Clean finish- turned over the seam allowance and sewn3.Pinked finish- pinked cut edges4.Bound finish- (inner beauty) covering the raw edges with ribbon tape or bias binding5.Overcast finish- a se(serged or marrowed) ries of loose, slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance.6. Double-stitched (light weight) in sheer, transparent, and lace. As well as knits, jersey and tricot.• The Bias Seam forms horizontal softness and is mostly found in skirts.Skipped stitch:Improper stitch balance:Excessive seam grin:Seam slippage on Rayon:Edge Finishes: Methods other than hems1.Facing2.Cut-on Facings3.Bias strip(most cost efficient)Hem can be called an EF(edge finishing)Hem- Any finish at the edge of a garments.Hemline Variations the Width to the Depth• 1/8th of an inch to several inches• hand stitched• machine stitched• fuzed• glued (leather)Can be faced or enclosedHem Terms:Hem allowance- the width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and the hem edge.Hem Edge- the raw edge of the hem.Hem Finish- Application for neatening the hem edge.Hemline- the edge of the garment.Three Basic Hems:1. Turned-up- folded up one or two times/2. Faced- (more expensive) facings…same fabric3. Enclosed Edge- banding or binding enclosing the raw edge. More often then not a contrast.Hem stitches:• Handstitched(overcast)• Lockstitch machine (blindstitch)• Blindstitch hemmerClosures-• Buttons• Zippers• Snap Fasteners• Hooks and eyes• Hook-and-loop tapeZippers and Buttons can be functional and decorative.Parts of a zipper:Types:• Lapped- one welt completely covers the zipper.• Slot or Centered-welts meet at center.• Exposed- sewn to tape edge, visible teeth.• Fly Front- (type of lapped) most commonly used, jeans.• Invisible- sewn in such a way that it disappearsPockets:Hem-part of pocket opening that folds to inside & finishes the openingPocket sack- bag or pouch that forms the pocketOpening - unstitched section, allows hand to enter the sackWaistlines:Buttons and Buttonholes:Terms-• DIAMETER – width of the button• EYES – holes in the button• LIGNES – measurement (1/40”) used to specify • SHANK – small rink of eye on the underside of the button• THICKNESS – button depthThe continuum of button quality would place the high–end button as the:• A. 2-hole• B. 4-hole• C. Metal shank• D. Plastic shank• Button Loops- Used at garment edges as a closure and a design element• Sanps- Two parts-a ball and a socket• Hook-and-eye- Paired fastener used to fasten garments securely and inconspicuously• Hook Tape- Bulky , holds strongShape- a silhouette is smaller shapes put together within the garment using seams.Smaller shapes:-Interest-Achieve Fit-Combinations of FabricsShape lets the designer:-Create optical illusion through line -Proportion-Balance-RhythmShaping devices - mold the garment to the contours of the body(to achieve fit)Silhouette- Outline or shape of a
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