Underlying Fabrics and Support Devices (Ch 5/8): Underlying fabrics or supporting fabrics are inside the garmentThe main, outer fabric from which a garment is made is called:the bodythe fashion orthe shell fabricUnderlying Fabrics are always inside the garment; lend support to the garment & help maintain its shape.1. Interfacing or Interlining- is an extra layer of supporting fabricSupplies body, shape, & reinforcement to areas of the garment2. Lining- A lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior. Constructed of lightweight fabric & sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance.Covers all seam allowancesGarment is more comfortable to wearEasier to slip garment onExtends the life of garmentProvides extra body, shape & supportLess apt to wrinkle3. Underlining- Involves lining each major piece of the garment individuallyLess costly than lining because it requires little additional laborDoes have ALL seam allowances & other construction details exposed on the inside4. Interlining- Applied strictly for additional warmthIncluded in cold-weather garments such as coats & jacketsIncludes all materials inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric & the liningSupport DevicesShoulder pads-Used in tailored jackets, coats, dresses and blousesMade of molded foam, layers of cotton or wool wadding, or polyester fiberfillSleeve Headers-Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs’ wool, tailor’s canvas, or fiberfillSewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeveCollar Stays- Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling.May be permanent or removableBoning-Used in the bodice bras, corsets, or strapless dressesCan be made of steel, plastic, or polyester rigileneSeam Tapes-Narrow woven strips of fabric, similar to ribbon.Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapelBra Cups-Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustlineUsually made of fiberfill or foamFindings and Trims (Ch 8):Findings- Play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garmentInclude:Support MaterialsClosuresThreadElasticLabelsAesthetic Performance of Trims and FindingsColorPatternColor ConsistencyLusterOpacityHandsSupport materials include:InterliningsLiningsSupport DevicesMost garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durabilityThread: a strong, slender form of yarn used for stitching garments. Selected for itsColorSizeStrengthElasticityColorfastnessAbility to form stitchesThread Types: (know characteristics of thread types)1. Spun Thread- Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarnsSpun polyester- most commonElasticAbrasion resistantSuitable for noncritical seams2. Corespun Thread- A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibersFineStronger than spun threadsElasticLess apt to cause puckeringSubject to needle heatingUsually the BEST choice for critical seams3. Filament Thread- limited use, clear thread resembling a finishing lineMonofilament- most commonRupturesIrritates when next to the skinCost effective as it blends into fabric & eliminates need to match thread to fabricMultifilament- very strong and abrasion resistantHowever too strong for many fabricSelecting Type of ThreadLocation of stitchingType of garmentUse if garmentCare of garmentLife of garmentThread Size Selection by Fabric WeightElastics: Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original sizeUsed to shape garments and hold them close to the bodyMade of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester, cotton, or another fiberTrims: Decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinctiveness.Linear Trims- Lines on the surface or edges of the garmentDecorative edgingsDecorative seamsNarrow Fabric TrimsRibbonsPassementerieLacesSurface EmbellishmentsEmbroidery- Trim formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garmentMonograms: usually satin-stitched in the form of initialsFloral: Flowers and/or leaves worked in thread, and sometimes enhanced by the addition of beads, gems, or sequinsCutwork: produced by making holes in fabric and surrounding the holes with embroideryTrapunto: done by padding a stitched pattern on the garment surface to produce a three-dimensional designAppliques- Surface decorations formed by thread, fabric, or nonfabric materials such as grommets, sequins, and beadsScreen printing- application of a printed design as a form of surface embellishmentDecorative EdgingsRuffles- strips of fabric gathered to add fullness & attached to garmentFlouncesSmockingOther Narrow Fabric Trims:Piping- a narrow, folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garmentCorded piping- piping with a cord in it to create a round tubeBias tape or hem tape- bias-cut strips of fabricNecklines, Collars, Sleeves and Cuffs (Component Parts):Necklines: Frame the neck and provide an opening for the headMay be finished simply with a facing, ribbed band, or bias binding, or it may be further embellished with a collarMay be round, square, scooped, sweetheart, or V-shapedCollars: Component parts that surround the neck, are attached permanently or temporarilyPartial roll collarsStraighter than the necklineStand at the back but lie flat on the frontExamples include Chelsea collars, tailored collars, and shawl collarsFlat CollarsSame shape as the necklinePopular on children’s clothes, they create a youthful feel on adult garmentsExamples include Peter Pan collars, Bertha Collars and sailor collarsStand CollarsEdges are straight in relation to the neckline curveThis straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neckExamples includes turtleneck collars, mandarin collars, and tie collarsGathered and Circular Ruffled CollarsGathered or pleated to fit the neckline seamFlouncesA greater neck curve, causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft foldsCowl CollarsAre a variation of the turtleneckTailored CollarsRequire more careful shaping during constructionMay be used on jackets, coats, and dressesCan be the focal pointCan be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break pointShawl CollarsSimilar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge lineNeckline and Collar Terminology:Stand: Fits close to
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