Exam 3 Review Images to Know Recognize common names of garment lengths Recognize common names of necklines collars COLLARS RUFFLED Tailored is a Little more Feminine w No tab front vs Shirt collar CHELSEA COLLAR PETER PAN COLLAR PARTIAL ROLL COLLARS FLAT COLLARS STAND COLLAR GATHERED CIRCULAR RUFFLED COLLARS COWL COLLARS JABOT ROSETS ASCOT NECKLINES TAILORED COLLARS SHAWL COLLARS Recognize common sleeve styles SLEEVE STYLES CUFF STYLES UNDERLYING FABRICS o INTERFACING o LINING SUPPORT DEVICES o STAY TAPE Underlying Fabrics Support Devices Underlying Fabrics o Inside the garment not often seen visibly on the outside of the garment o Can be for aesthetic inner beauty or support or body May be strictly functional or aesthetic o Aka supporting fabrics devices o Lend support to the garment and help maintain it s shape The main outer fabric from which a garment is made is called o The body o The fashion o The shell fabric o This is the basic main fabric of the garment There are 4 types of underlying fabrics o Interfacing interlining or interfacing is an extra layer of supporting fabric Supplies body shape reinforcement to areas of the garment A real sheer fabric such as lace would need interfacing for functionality Supporting fabric that is not see even on the inside of the fabric usually sewn in between the fabrics o Lining a lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior Think of lining as inner beauty Big quality indicator Constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance Covers all seam allowances Garment is more comfortable to wear Easier to slip garment on Extends the life of the garment Provides extra body shape support Less apt to wrinkle Often as you get into high end goods lining is functional but also a bit aesthetic might be a pop of pink Number one function of lining is an aesthetic function o Underlining Involves lining each major piece of the garment individually Sewn as one unit Less costly than lining because it requires little additional labor Does have ALL seam allowances and other construction details exposed on the inside Less for inner beauty more for function Used mostly on sheer fabrics to make them less see through and give them a little more body o Interlining Applied strictly for additional warmth Included in cold weather garments such as coats jackets Includes all materials inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric and the lining Nothing to do with aesthetics strictly functional Support Devices o Sleeve Headers Folded narrow strips of bias cut lamb s wool tailor s canvas or fiberfill Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent o Collar Stays o Boning o Seam Tapes curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Findings Trim Findings play a key role in the aesthetic performance of garment o Include support materials closures thread elastic labels Support Materials o Include interlinings linings support devices see above o Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Thread a strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments o Selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness ability to form stitches o Functionality of the thread has to match the fabric used fabric weights and end use need elastic thread for workout clothes etc o Fabric thread also has to be compatible with the care of the garment o May be the least costly component of a garment but the improper selection or specification can cause complete failure of the garment Thread Types there are 3 major types of thread o Most common types are spun and corespun numbers 1 and 2 o Spun Thread Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Spun Polyester Most common Elastic Abrasion resistant Not easy to tear polyester kind of stretchy Suitable for noncritical seams Less expensive than corespun Not for critical seams o Corespun Thread a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Stronger than spun threads Fine Elastic Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating know this term Usually the BEST choice for critical seams Spun core of polyester or nylon indicates STRENGTH Cotton has good dye ability color means everything o Filament Thread clear thread resembling a fishing line Limited use Monofilament most common fabric Multifilament very strong abrasion resistant However too strong for many fabrics Selecting Type of Thread Based On o Location of stitching Critical vs Noncritical o Type of Garment o Use of Garment o Care of Garment o Life of Garment Elastics Ruptures Cost effective as it blends into fabric and eliminates need to match thread to Irritates when next to the skin o Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size o Used to shape garments and hold them close to the body o Made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another fiber Trims decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and are aesthetic can sometimes be functional o Main function is aesthetic o May help enforce the lines of the fabric o Important because they re quality indicators o Trim has to be securely fastened to the garment o Trim needs to be attached in an inconspicuous manner o Linear Trims lines on the surface or edges of the garments Decorative edgings Decorative seams o Narrow Fabric Trims Surface Stitching topstitching hemstitching edge stitching fagoting pin tucks Seam Variations welt seams slot seams Seam Edgings cording overlock stitching picot edging lettuce edging Ribbons Passementerie Laces Piping a narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment Corded Piping piping with a cord in it to create a round tube Braids and Flexible Trims Flexible trims can move with the garment Flexible trims used on curved areas has to be flexible so it doesn t cause puckering Use mitering to go around the curve of the garment o Surface Embellishments Embroidery thread patterns on the surface of the
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