SEAMS reference chapter 10 on seams SS Superimposed Seams Most used seam class o The cut edges of the fabric layers are stacked on top of one another o Known as a plain seam o Quick efficient o Usually and almost always butterflied aka busted and ironed flat LS Lapped Seams also known as a flat fell o Formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two plies of fabric and sewing them together o Very widely used because it holds together stronger fabrics o Only seam used for denim and really heavy weight twill pants most commonly used for jeans o Cannot be used on curved seams too rigid o Formed by sewing face side up lapping one layer over the other BS Bound Seams contains a binding lapel with contrast binding o Quality indicator expensive construction process o Can only be found on edges because they re bounding the edges of the fabric o Made by encasing the raw edges of a seam with fabric strips FS Flat Seams looks the same on both sides o Join fabric plies by butting the raw edges together and securing them with a 600 class cover stitch or a zigzag stitch o Also known as exposed seams o Almost never used on wovens o Not a quality indicator o Less bulky and uses less fabric because there s no seam allowance EF Edge Finishes stitches that are applied to finish an edge or for ornamental purpose o Creates a functional seam o Very economical o Does two things at the same time finishes the edge while stitching the seam o Prevent raveling of woven fabrics o Keeps the edges of lightweight to medium weight fabrics from curling Because knits curl and it s lightweight you don t want more seam allowance because it ll be bulky Seams are marrowed or surged OS Ornamental Stitching can be multifunctional can construct the seam while topstitching o Can either be a topstitch that s decorative and can be added to a regular seam or for flattening seams in fabric that doesn t flatten well o Dressmaker detail A seam results when two or more fabric pieces are sewn together Stitching holds the garment together MATCHING SEAMS 1 LS E lapped seam 2 BS B bound seam 3 SS A superimposed seam 4 FS C flat seam 5 EF D edge finish A B D C MATCHING E 1 Seam allowance B the space between A and C narrow width of fabric between the seam line and 2 Garment D 3 Raw edges C you ll rarely find a raw edge on a woven garment because they ravel 4 Seam A Seam line the stitched line of a seam parallel to and always a specified distance from the the cut edge of the fabric raw edge of the fabric SEAM FINISHES prevent rippling The finish shouldn t add bulk to the seam Seam finishes can be anything that makes a seam look neater prevent it from raveling or rolling and Seam finish is constructed after the seam is stitched unless it is an overedge stitch Types of Seam Finishes o Plain Finish when a plain seam is left untreated When garments are going to be fully lined you wouldn t need an edge finish because it ll be lined to block to raveling and protect those seams o Clean Finish turned over the seam alliance and stitched Clean finish edge sews it so it s protected mainly for raveling left side is unfinished right is clean o Pinked Finish used on wovens that don t ravel easily o Bound Finish binding Quality indicator Covering the raw edges of each ply with a folded ribbon tape or bias binding o Overcast Finish aka marrowed finish or surged A series of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance Big thing used for knits Very inexpensive way to finish the edge o Double Stitched Finish you have two rows made on the same seam Second row of stitching Usually found on finer fabrics such as lace sheer or transparent fabrics and sometimes knits and jersey First row is overcast then pinked then double stitches on the last one MATCHING SEAM FINISHES A Overcast Serged Finish 3 B Bound Finish 1 C Clean Finish 4 D Pinked Finish 2 2 1 3 4 SEAM QUALITY DEFECTS Restitched Seams Broken Stitches broken stitches o Restitched seams reflecting a splice where a thread broke or ran out during construction cut or Skipped Stitches o Where the stitch length is inconsistent where you can see that the threads in the stitch are not properly connected together Open Seam Seam Failure Stitch o The threads in the seam rupture leaving a hole in the stitch line Open Seam Seam Failure Fabric o The stitch line is still intact by the yarns in the fabric have ruptured Seam Failure Seam Slippage o The yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge Needle Cutting on Knits o Where needle holes appear along the stitch line that will eventually turn into a run Excessive Seam Puckering Wovens o The seam doesn t lay flat and smooth along the stitch line Puckered Seams knit and stretch wovens o Seam doesn t lay flat after stitching Excessive Seam Grin o The stitch balance isn t properly adjusted stitch too loose and you can see the seam opening up Improper Stitch Balance loose o Where loops are seen either on the bottom side or topside of the seam or where the stitch is too Improper Stitch Balance 504 Overedge stitch o Where the needle loop is not pulled up to the underside of the seam and the purl is not on the edge of the seam Ragged Inconsistent Edge Overedge or Safetystitch Seams o Where the edge of the seam is either extremely ragged or rolls inside the stitch Unraveling caused by a broken or skipped stitch A ropy hem caused by poor operator handling or too much pressure on the presser foot MATCHING SEAM DEFECTS 1 2 3 Skipped Stitch on a Chainstitch 401 Improper Stitch Balance Excessive Seam Grin 4 Seam Slippage on Rayon Fabric HEMS EDGE TREATMENTS Hem any finish at the edge of a garment functional and aesthetic Hem allowance the width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and hem edge o Very thin seam allowance would be used on something sheer o Three main factors What is the flare of the garment Straight down vs flare BIGGEST DETERMINATION Weight of the fabric End use of the garment balanced by the cost Hem edge raw edge of the hem Hemline the edge of the garment Types of hems o Turned Up Hem very simple application o Faced Hem face hem as a separate facing o Enclosed Edge Hem think of bound or binding taking the edges and enclosing it Facings in bottom of document MATCHING 1 The edge of the garment C 2 Application for neatening the hem edge B 3 The width of the unfinished hem D 4 The raw edge of the hem A ZIPPERS Identify zipper parts from a …
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