NECKLINES COLLARS SLEEVES CUFFS Necklines frame the neck provide an opening for the head o May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar o May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped Collars component parts that surround the neck attached permanently or temporarily Flat collars same shape as neckline Popular in children s clothes they create a youthful feel on adult garments Ex Peter Pan Bertha sailor collars o o Stand collar edges are straight in relation to neckline curve Straight edge causes collar to encircle the neck Ex turtleneck mandarin tie collars o Gathered circular ruffled collars Flounces A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam Cowl Collars variation of turtle neck o Collar Details Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends o Tailored collars require more careful shaping during construction top right pic May be used on jackets coats dresses Can be the focal point can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break point o Partial Roll Collars Straighter than the neckline Stand at the back but lie flat on the front Ex Chelsea tailored shawl collars o Shawl collars similar to tailors but don t have a gorge line Sleeves Cuffs o Designed to fit armscye or armhole can be varied by changing how bottom edge is finished o o o FINDINGS TRIM MORE QUALITY INDICATORS Underlying fabrics support devices findings trim necklines sleeves collars cuffs garment assembly finishing read study ch 11 12 quality costing pricing profit planning productions CH 8 Findings all components of a garment except the body of the fabric Trims labels threads elastics underlying fabrics zippers buttons other closures Trims decorative materials that adorn the garment o Ribbons braids laces appliques flowers beads sequins Quality of findings trim must reflect same quality of fabric Suppliers know most about findings and trim Defects or defectives imperfect findings and trims Functional Performance of findings trims o o o o o o o o o o o Requirements refer to the utility durability Utility refers to the influence of the garment s Dimension stability appearance retention comfort ease of care safety Durability refers to the serviceability of a finding on a garment s Strength abrasion resistance degradation by chemicals Dimensional Stability one of the most important characteristics Shrinkage elongation elasticity of trim play a major role in maintaining garment quality Findings aren t affected bcs of their material composition Shrinkage Trims can shrink less the same or more than the garment 2 variance between trim body fabric won t adversely affect the body Differential shrinkage when difference in shrinkage is excess of 2 Can cause puckered or rippled look o Elongation Elasticity Extensible fabric it elongates or stretches Any trim needs to extend with the body of the fabric if on extensible fabric Ex waistband on stretch leggings must be able to stretch Appearance Retention findings trim need to age with fabric Comfort size shape feel of findings trim affect the comfort Ease of Care findings should have the same care instructions as base fabric Safety one of the main issues is flame resistance Strength findings like buttons zippers snaps are exposed to a lot of stress Strength of these need to be specified Abrasion Resistance more a consideration of appearance than of durability Surface abrasion dulls the finish scratches finish and removes color Resistance to Degradation loss of desirable fiber properties caused by light heat or chemical means Findings trims must be Chemical resistant durable to consumer care light resistant fume resistant Colorfastness ability of trim or finding to retain its color Ex white buttons that yellow o Heat Resistance When thermoplastic trims findings are combined with natural fiber fabrics the variation in heat resistance affects the care of garment Ex a shirt that can be ironed but the emblem can t be Physical Features Findings thread zippers buttons etc everything but fabric Play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garment o o Aesthetic functional Aesthetic Performance of Trims Findings Color pattern color consistency luster opacity hands Findings include support materials closures thread elastic labels Thread is most important because it keeps the garment together Support Materials Interlinings linings support devices Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention durability Thread Strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments Selected for its color size strength most important elasticity colorfastness ability to form stitches Thread Types 2 most common spun corespun 1 Spun thread o o most common Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Spun polyester Elastic Abrasion resistant Inexpensive fast fashion Suitable for noncritical seams 2 Corespun thread Where no stress is applied no stress areas o A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers o Fine elastic Stronger than spun threads Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating tension from machine o o o o Usually the BEST choice for critical seams o Superior in sew ability able to sew trim turn inside out etc strength durability as compared to spun threads higher quality choice than spun o Used excessively of wovens 3 Filament thread Clear thread resembling a fishing line o o Monofilament most common Ruptures Irritates when next to the skin Cost effective as it blends into fabric eliminates need to match thread to fabric o Multifilament very strong abrasion resistant However too strong for many fabrics Selecting Type of thread Location of stitching important bcs of stress Type of garment Use of garment Care of garment Life of garment Elastics o Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch return to its original size o Used to shape garments hold them close to the body o Made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or
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