1 Exam 1 Review Pret a porter Ready to wear movie 1994 Vertical Integration when the SAME firm is responsible for multiple steps in the production or marketing of an apparel product Key for Speed to Market Contractors Independent business hired to provide production services outside shops and have more flexibility Proprietary Private Label Macy s Inc Store brand Brand Label Branded apparel is created under a label and sold at wholesale for distribution to retailers who also carry other brands Also sold through the brand s own specialty store outlet or online Differences between textile and apparel industry Textile Industry Fiber manufacturer Yarn spinners Converters Dyers printers finishers Fabric manufacturer Apparel Industry Manufacturers Branded Apparel Created under a label and sold at wholesale for distribution to retailers who also carry other brands Also sold through the brand s own specialty store outlet or online Kate Spade New York Private Label Products developed for exclusive distribution by a retailer using their proprietary brand Publix uses Publix brand Macy s uses INC Store brands that offer products exclusively available in their stores Gap Zara White House Black Retailers Nordstrom Dillard s Belk Macy s Saks Fifth Avenue Market NRF National Retail Federal Wholesale and Retail Retail Price is the ultimate vehicle of change Price value equation much more important than in the past Provide what they want not what they need Must be COMPELLING Contractor and manufacturer CM A manufacturer that contracts with a firm for components or products A form of outsourcing Inside shops and Outside shops o Manufacturers are inside shops and operate their own factories Offshore contractors are attempting to become more vertical by offering and increasing an array of services Voluntary Labels CPSC Consumer International Trade The exchange of goods between nations and all the issues associated with that exchange o Import To buy goods from another country o Export To sell goods to another country o ETCs Export Trading Companies Serve as intermediaries between the producers of the goods and the buyer of the goods in the other countries o Tariff A tax on imported goods 2 o Quota An annual limit on the volume of a product that may be imported o Embargo Prohibition of importing a product o Trade deficit A country s imports exceed the value of its exports o TFPIA Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Production Costing When is the costing sheet used o WTO World Trade Organization Replaced General Agreement on tariffs and Trade and Agreement on Textiles and Clothing Promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriers Equalization of trade among countries NAFTA North American Free Trade Agreement Canada Mexico and U S Benefits of Bar Codes UPC Creates uniformity throughout the industry Encoding of product features Speeds up checkout time for retail customers Provides all the necessary information for keeping track of sales and inventory EU Trading block of european countries QR Quick Response Strategy RFID Radio Frequency ID Quality Built from conception What it s all about Fabrics Findings Country of origin Fit Finishing Quality apparel is produced using a thoughtfully developed system of testing standards and specs and inspection Quality to cost Ratio How much you are willing to pay to have quality measured against what they will give up in order to have a lower price Prevention vs Detection Prevention Before the event avoids waste lowers cost gains orders protects jobs Detection After the event tolerates waste raises cost loses orders destroys jobs 2 Dimensions of Product Quality Physical features and Performance features Physical features of fabric fiber yarn fabric structure color and applied design hand Businesses can use this number on product labels in lieu of the company name o Quality of fabric is assessed at all stages of production o Fabric is the 1 cost of garments Labeling o RN Registered Identification Number Regulations on Apparel Labeling Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Wool Products Labeling Act Silk Labeling Regulation Care Labeling Rule Fur Products Labeling Act Product Safety Commission Responsible for enforcing Flammable Fabrics Act Voluntary Testing Methods AATCC and ASTM International Standards Worldwide Trademark A symbol word or words legally registered or established by use as representing a company or product 3 Copyright The exclusive legal right given to an originator or an assignee to print publishes perform film or record literally artistic or musical work T Trade dress A legal term of art that generally refers to characteristics of the visual appearance of a product or its packaging Counterfeit vs Knockoff o Counterfeit Copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name o Knockoff Fakes or copies of currently popular brands accompanied by the illegal trademark An imitation which infringes upon a manufacturer Fiber Yarn and Fabric The essential quality indicator Physical features of fabric Fiber Yarn Color and applied design Fabric structure Manufactured vs Natural The building blocks of fabric o Natural Protein fibers cellulosic fibers more costly more luxurious silk linen flax Sweaters Cotton cashmere wool o Manufactured Regenerated cellulosic synthetics polyester doesn t breathe Fiber size greatly affects the hand of the fabric Denier A direct system the larger the the larger the fiber Tex For international use based on metric system Twist type staple filament Woven knit lace o Woven ravel o Knit curl Aesthetic and Functional performance of the end product is achieved with selecting the correct fabric and includes Garment design intended use of garment season of the year fashion trends consumer preferences cost limitations and target market o Compressibility Soft to hard o Tactile the hand o Aesthetic color pattern applied design o Opaque sheer o Boardy stiff o Drapability Flexibility softer fabrics pliable limp fluid to firm stiff crisp o Luster shiny dull matte Functional Performance of Fabric Dimensional Stability Relates to the ability to neither stretch nor shrink o Torque or Skewness Fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other Appearance Retention The ability of a fabric to stay the same color retain creases resist wrinkle snagging and pilling and withstand the heat of care processes determines whether the garment maintains its original appearance Comfort
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