CTE3763 Exam 3 Common names of garment lengths floor Skirt micro mini minim above knee knee below knee midcalf midi maxi ankle Shorts bikini shirt rehearsal Jamaica Bermuda Dek Pants Pedal pushers toreador capri classic Necklines frame the neck and provide an opening for the head may be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be fur ther embellished with a collar may be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends Collars Component parts that surround the neck and are attached permanently or tempo rarily Partial roll collars straighter than the neckline stand at the back but lie flat on the front Ex Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars Flat collars same shape as the neckline popular on children s clothing create a youthful feel on adult garments and cause collar to appear as it is standing up Stand collar edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve Examples Peter Pan collars Bertha collars and sailor collars straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neck Examples turtleneck collars shirt collars mandarin collars and tie collars Gathered and circular ruffled collars and Flounces a greater neck curve causing style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Tailored collars require more careful shaping during construction gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam may be used on jackets coats and dresses can be the focal point can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break point Cowl collars are a variation of the turtle neck Shawl collars similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line the Sleeves and Cuffs sleeves are designed to fit the armscye or armhole ied by changing edge is finished can be var how the bottom Most common support devices from which a Underlying fabrics supporting fabrics inside the garment the main outer fabric garment is made Shoulder pads shaping device for shoulder area of garment Stay tape narrow woven strips of fabric that can stabilize the shoulder seam on a lends the support to the garment to help maintain its shape knit top or Findings play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garment to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Include Support Materials Interlinings insulate layer applied strictly for additional warmth between the lining Linings a near replica of the garment constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn and the fashion fabric inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance support devices most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention durability Closures Thread strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness ability to form and stitches Spun Thread consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Spun polyester is most common elastic abrasion resistant suitable for noncritical seams Corespun Thread a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or Filament Thread clear thread resembling a fishing line limited use fibers fine stronger than spun threads elastic less apt to cause puckering subject to needle heating usually the BEST choice for critical seams monofilament most common ruptures irritates when close to skin Cost effective it blends into fabric and eliminates need to match Multifilament very strong and abrasion resistant Too strong for lots of fabrics other thread fabric Elastic the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size used to shape garments and hold them close to the body made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another fiber Labels printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information for the consumer Non woven labels called aper labels are printed and frequently used on casual and lower priced clothing Woven labels are the most costly and require the longest lead time tions Government requirements fiber content producer s ID COO location care instruc Flat labels strips of narrow fabric in 3 styles Brand labels usually large colorful and affixed in a prominent location they help consumer quickly identify product finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others cut on two ends and folded under ironed on or fused Folded Loop longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam Folded label flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label usually printed and often non woven Direct printing printing on garment usually t shirts Heat Transfer mostly on knit shirts undergarments socks Labels and quality Highest quality woven mitered Medium HIGH quality woven looped or single Medium Quality screen printed four side sew Medium LOW Quality screen printed cut and fold Lowest quality direct digital printed Trims decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinc tiveness Linear trims lines on the surface or edges of the garment decorate edgings decorative seams Surface stitching topstitching edge stitching hemstitching faggoting pin tucks Seam variations welt seams slot seams Seam edgings piping cording overlock stitching picot edging Lettuce edging Narrow fabric trims ribbons passementerie laces piping a narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment corded piping piping with a cord in it to create a round tube bias tape or hem tape bias cut strips of fabric Surface embellishments embroidery trim formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garment monograms usually satin stitched in the form of initials floral flowers and or leaves worked in thread and sometimes enhanced by the addition of beads gems or sequins Cutwork produced by making holes in fabric and surrounding the holes with embroidery Trapunto done by padding a stitched pattern on the garment surface to pro duce a 3D design Appliqu s surface decorations formed by thread fabric or non fabric materials se quins etc
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