CTE 3763 Exam 3 Review Recognize names of garment lengths Week 9 on BB Recognize names of necklines collars Week 10 on BB Necklines Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head The overall look once finished round square cooped sweetheart V shaped Collars Component parts that surround the neck Are attached permanently or temporarily A neckline could be finished with a facing ribbed band bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar Types of Collars Partial roll collars Straighter than the neckline Stand at the back but lie flat on the front Examples include chesea collars tailored collars and shawl collars Flat collars Same shape as the neckline Popular on children s clothes they create Examples include pater pan collars a youthful feel on adult garments bertha collars and sailor collars Stand collars Edges are straight in relation to the This straight edge causes the collar to Turtleneck collars shirt collar mandarin neckline curve encircle the neck collar and tie collars Gathered and circular ruffled collars A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam Cowl collars Tailored collars construction dresses Are a variation of the turtleneck Require more careful shaping during May be sued on jackets coats and Can be the focal point Can be changed dramatically by raising Lapels or lowering the break point Shawl collars a gorge line Similar to tailored collars but do not have Recognize sleeve styles Sleeves Designed to fit the armscye or armhole Can be varied by changing how the bottom edge is finished Recongnize cuff styles Recognize common support devices Week 9 on BB Support devices Collar stays Under wires Shoulder pads Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Support device in bras Used in tailored jackets coats Made of molded foam layers of dresses and blouses cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill Sleeve headers Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs wool tailors canvas or fiberfill Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Findings Trim Labels Quality Week 10 on BB Indicators Study Lecture Notes PPP Chapter 8 along with Index Findings Play a key role in the aesthetic Includes performace of a garment Support materials o Stay tape Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the rool line of a jacket lapel o Underlying fabrics o Shoulder pads Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill Closures Thread o A strong slender from of yarn used for stitching garments o Selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness ability to form stitches o Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size o Used to shape garments and hold them close to the body o Made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another fiber o Printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information for the consumer Elastic Labels Characteristics of thread types Spun single yarns Consists of staple fibers spun into Most common spun polyester o It is Elastic abrasion resistant suitable for non critical seams A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Corespun Filament line It is finer stronger than spun threads elastic less apt to cause puckering subject to needle heating usually the best choice for critical seams Clear thread resembling a fishing Monofilament o Most common o Ruptures o Irritates when next to the skin o Cost effective as it blends into fabric and eliminates need to match thread to fabric Multi filament resistant fabrics o Very strong and abrasion o However too strong for many Underlying Fabrics Week 9 on BB Body Fashion or shell fabrics Underlying fabrics o The main outer fabric from which a garment is made o Supporting fabrics that are inside the garment o Lend support to the garment and help maintain its shape o Includes Interfacing Lining Interlining interfacing is an extra layer of supporting fabric Supplies body shape and reinforcement to areas of the garment A lightweight fabric that Covers all seam gives a finished appearance to the interior allowances garment is more comfortable to wear easier to slip garment on extends the life of garment provides extra body shape and support less apt to wrinkle Involves lining each major piece of the garment individually Less costly than lining because it requires little additional labor Does have all seam allowances and other construction details exposed on the inside Underlining Interlining Applied strictly for additional warmth Included in cold weather garments such as coats and jacket Includes all material inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric and the lining Know basic types of labels Labels o Printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information for the consumer Government Requirements o Generic fiber content o Producer s ID o Country of origin o Location o Care instructions F F Material for labels o Nonwoven Called paper labels Printed and frequently used on casual and lower priced clothing o Woven The most costly and require the longest lead time Types of Labels and methods of attaching o Brand Labels o Flat labels Usually large colorful and affixed in a prominent location identify the product Help the consumer quickly Strips of narrow fabric in three styles Finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others folded under Cut on two ends and Ironed on or fused o Folded loop label o Folded label Longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam A flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label nonwoven Usually printed and is often o Direct Printed Labels Directly printed onto the inside of the garment o Heat transfer labels Most frequently found on knit shirts undergarments socks Garment Assembly Finishing Week 11 on BB Study Lecture Notes PPP Chapters 11 12 along with Index Parts Panels pieces Pieces Pieces product Preliminary Garment Assembly Garment shaping begins on panels Pleats and tucks should be parallel and Gathers and ease evenly distributed on straight of grain Patterns such as plaids and stripes
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