CTE3763 FINDINGS AND TRIM MORE QUALITY INDICATORS can clearly add to the aesthetic performance of a garment all the materials that go into a garment other than the body of the fabric base cloth trims findings include labels thread elastics underlying fabrics support items closures other misc aesthetic performance color pattern color consistency luster opacity hand findings support materials underlying fabrics etc closures thread elastic labels support materials interlinings linings support devices functional and aesthetic most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Thread strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness ability to form stitches aesthetic and functional have to choose the right thread for the quality and durability of the garment pg 301 304 can also be used for embroidery or monograms etc thread size selection by fabric weight knits vs wovens and thread wovens more rigid thread stitch knits must be more stretch compatible with a knit stretch stitch thread is the cheapest finding of a garment but must be sourced correctly spun corespun two most widely used in apparel today 3 main types of threads 1 spun thread consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns spun polyester most common elastic abrasion resistance suitable for noncritical seams more inexpensive not as durable not quality ex fast fashion abrasion resistant noncritical seam without excessive stretch ex an entire garment could have non critical seams bc it is not a quality garment if its highly designed etc then it is done with critical seams elastic is important bc of its big use in knits ex nike dry fit pants knits dress 2 corespun thread spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers quality indicator superior in sewability to spun threads Characteristics fine stronger than spun thread elastic less apt to cause puckering subject to needle heating usually the best choice for critical seams ex denim 3 filament thread limited use hard to break clear thread resembling a fishing line cost effective monofilament most common ruptures irritates when next to the skiin cost effective as it blends into fabric and eliminates need to match thread to fabric multifilament very strong and abrasion resistant however too strong for many fabrics used need the strength for a bulky fabric sometimes in lower priced garments and hems Selecting type of thread location of stitching type of garment use of garment care of garment life of garment Elastics ability to repeatedly stretch an return to its original size used to shape garments and hold them close to the body made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton another fiber Trims decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinctiveness aesthetic can bind a seam lapel is both functional and aesthetic 1 linear trims decorative edgings decorative seams 2 narrow fabric trims ribbons passementerie laces 3 surface embellishments embroidery appliques screen printing 4 decorative edgings ruffles flounces smocking Linear Trims Surface stitching topstitching edge stitching hemstitching fagoting pin tucks Seam Edgings piping cording overlock stitching picot edging lettuce edging Seam variations welt seams slot seams Trims decorative materials that adorn a garment ribbons more preppy can be used in childrens braids laces oter narrow fabric trims appliques beads sequins other decorative items braids and flexible trim rick rack etc piping narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment corded piping piping with a cord in it to create a round tube bias tape or hem tape bias cut strips of fabric Standards for evaluating soft trim compatible with garment fabric fabrication for care and weight aware of curved areas some may be inflexible Surface embellishments appliques surface decorations formed by thread fabric or nonfabric materials such as grommets sequins and beads embroideries trims formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garment screen printing Embroidery 4 embroidery choice that are popular 1 Monograms usually satin stitched in the form of initials 2 Floral flowers and or leaves worked in thread and sometimes enhanced by addition of beads gems or sequins 3 cutwork produced by making holes in fabric and surrounding ht eholes with embroidery 4 trapunto done by padding a stitched pattern on the garment surface to produce a 3D design Decorative details ruffles flounces smocking Ruffles strips of fabric gathered to add fullness and attached to garment APPAREL LABELING labels printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information for the consumer woven more quality more time for production more costly vs nonwoven printed paper label frequently used on casual lower priced clothing Government requirements Generic fiber content Producer s identification Country of origin Location Care instructions brand labels usually colorful and affixed in a prominent location help consumer quickly identify the product Label styles flat label strips of narrow fabric in 3 styles finished on two edges then heat sealed on others cut on two ends and folded under ironed on or fused folded loop label longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam folded label flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label usually printed and is often unwoven heat transfer most frequently on knit shirts undergarments socks direct printing Labels and continuum of quality NECKLINES COLLARS SLEEVES AND CUFFS COMPONENT PARTS Necklines frame the neck and provide opening for head may be finished simply with a facing ribbed band bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar may be round square scooped sweetheart or v shaped back lines open back may have a closed front collars components parts that surround neck attached permanently or temporarily necklines chart uneck vneck bateau sweetheart cowl funnel Deep vneck scoop offshoulder jewel Peaseant drawstring square oneshoulder necklines and collars terms stand fits close to the neck fall turns over to stand or garment roll line line where collar fall turns over the stand style line shape of the outer edge lapels designed to attach to collar and turn back over the garment breakline where lapel turns back
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