CTE3763 Exam 2 Review What s on the Test Recognize seam classes LS SS BS FS EF from graphic images and written description Recognize seam finishes from graphic images and written description Recognize seam defects from graphic images and written description Recognize hems and edge treatments and facings Matching Matching Seam finishes Matching Seam Defects Matching zipper applications Seam Classes LS SS BS FS EF 6 Seam Classes Superimposed seams SS Lapped seams LS Bound seams BS Flat seams FS Ornamental stitching OS Edge finishes EF Superimposed seams SS Most commonly used The cut edges of the fabric layers are stacked on top of one another to form a booked seam ready for stitching Lapped seams LS Formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric and sewing them together Formed by sewing face side up lapping one layer over the other More than 100 variations Hems on jeans Bound seams BS Made by encasing the raw edges of a seam with fabric strips Prone to unraveling Aren t used that much anymore due to the increased use of knit fabrics and safety stitches Flat seams FS Made by joining fabric plies by butting the raw edges together and securing them with a 600 class cover stitch or a zig zag stitch Looks the same on both sides Ornamental stitching 0S Edge finishes EF purpose Stitches that are applied to finish an edge or for ornamental Prevent raveling of woven fabric s Keeps the edges of lightweight weight knit fabrics from curling Recognize Hem hem allowance Any finish at the edge of a garment the narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric the width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and hem edge hem edge the raw edge of the hem hemline parallel to and always a specified distance from the raw edge the stitched line of a seam types of hems of the fabric turned up hem faced hem the fold at the end of a sleeve or pant leg so that it is shorter and has a finished edge a clean finished hem produced on a shaped edge by similarly formed section of fabric on the face followed by reversing the piece to the stitching a of the garment inside On garments of heavy fabrics to reduce bulk those seams where both seam allowances are covered garments with a lot of flare the narrower created by stretching the edge as it is stitched so Lengthens hemlines On scalloped edges enclosed edge hem narrow hems the hem Lettuce Edge Hem that it ripples attractively Double Needle Hem Ruffle Hemline Asymmetrical Hemline Scalloped hem Faggoting stitch hem Seam Defects Unraveling 1 Caused by a broken or skipped stitch splice restitched seams 2 Where a thread broke or ran out during construction They are restitched seams and reflect a defect If it occurs on top stitching the garment isn t top quality Caused by thread breaks or thread run out during sewing Cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product Stone washing Caused by poor operator handling or too much pressure on the presser foot Ropy hem 3 1 2 3 Skipped stitches Where the stitch inconsistent possibly the normal stitch length length is appearing as doubt Not properly connect together Cuased by the stitch forming device in the sewing machine missing the thread loop during stitch formation causing a defective stitch Open Seam Seam Failure Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric in the stitch line have ruptured Caused by improper stitch for application Also caused by inadequate thread strength for seam Caused by not enough stitches per inch Seam Slippage edge Where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the This often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slick surface Also caused by loosely constructed fabrics Where needle holes appear along the stitchline that will eventually turn into a run Caused by the needle damaging the fabric as it is penetrating Needle Cutting on Knits the seam Excessive Seam Puckering Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the Caused by feed puckering tension puckering or yarn stitchline displacement Plain Finish This is seen when a plain seam is left untreated Seam Finishes Clean Finish Turned over the seam allowance and stitched Overcast Finish Bound Finish A series of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance Covering the raw edges of each ply with a folded ribbon tape or bias binding Double Stitched Finish Overcast Pinked Trimmed Bias Seam Forms horizontal softness Mostly often found in skirts Edge Finish Hems Facings Cut on facings Bias strip Facings Shaped or separate facing Fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they face Should be cut on the same grain as the garment piece they face Ideal for shaped necklines hems and sleeveless armholes as they conform to any shape Shaped facings are sewn on not FOLDED BACK Extended Facing The simplest type of facing Require least labor and add the least bulk to garment Used less than shaped facing due to more fabric useage Can only be used on straight edges Bias Facing Narrow bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges Froms a neat inconspicuous facing approximately 5 inches wide Require little fabric Most cost efficient Useful for sheer fabrics Not suited for intricately shaped edges Low in bulk Identify zipper parts from a graphic image Zippers Be able to identify common zipper application methods from either graphic image or description Zipper Applications 1 Lapped Formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric and sewing them together This is the largest seam class also known as flat felled You sew face side up lapping one over the other One welt completely covers the zipper 2 Centered slot Welts meet at center 3 Invisible Sewn in such a way that it disappears into a seam Can t be seen from the outside of the garment 4 Exposed Fly front Seen from the outside of the garment Sewn to tape edge Visible teeth A type of lapped zipper Most commonly used on jean sand slacks Pocket Styles and Waistlines Recognize 6 pocket styles from graphic image or written description Patch pocket patch IN seam a pocket which is sewn directly onto garment like a it acts as its own pocket sack pocket sack is inside the garment the opening is stitched into the seam so it is difficult to see Bound or double welt a slit in the garment finished with a welt or flap pocket
View Full Document
Unlocking...