CTE3763 Study Guide Exam 1 Overview of the apparel Industry the big picture Know differences between Textile Apparel Industry Textile industry Fiber manufacturer Yarn spinners Fabric manufacturer Converters Dyers Printers Finishers Apparel industry Traditional manufacturers or contractors Wholesale Retail Vertical horizontal integration Vertical integration to market at the right time and the right price Controls all the processes Significantly impacts a firm s competition advantage in getting the right product Horizontal Integration similar products to expand market penetration and reduce competition Prioritizes the acquisition or licensing of companies or brands that make or sell Acquire or consolidate Contractor Manufacturer distributing them to retailers Inside shops outside shops Contractor person or company hired by a manufacturer to do part of all of the work in producing a garment also called outside shop Manufacturer the person or company ultimately responsible for all the steps in producing garments and Branded private labels Branded apparel Created under a label and sold at wholesale for distribution to retailers who also carry other brands NOT JUST ONE TYPE Private labels Products developed for exclusive distribution by a retailer using their proprietary brand Macy s INC OR store brands that offer products exclusively available in their stores like Gap Zara Import buying goods from another country Export selling goods from another country Trade deficit situation that occurs when a country imports more goods than it exports Embargo prohibition of importing a good Tariff tax on imported goods Know Quota an annual limit on the volume of a product that may be imported Know the fundamentals of global trade NAFTA WTO WTO World Trade Organization Promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriers Equalization of trade among countries developed to provide an international forum that encourages trade between member countries by reducing tariffs by those goods traded and also handling disputes NAFTA North American free trade agreement policy creating a single North American market for goods originating in the US Canada and Mexico TFPIA federal law requiring that all apparel sold in the United States have a label that identifies fiber content manufacturer and country of origin Quality Assurance Labeling Define QUALITY is built from inception includes fabrics findings country of origin fit finishing c an be what customer says it is Cost ratio How much you are willing to pay to have quality measured against what they will give up in order to have a lower price Prevention vs Detection prevention before the event avoids waste lowers cost gains orders protects jobs detection after the end tolerates waste raises cost loses orders and destroys jobs Labeling RN stands for Registered Identification Number Businesses can use this number on product labels in lieu of the company name Voluntary Labels Trademark registered brand name of symbol Copyright exclusive right to reproduce a work of art Trade dress refers to the shape and features of the product itself that are not only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product Counterfeit vs Knockoff knockoff Copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name the illegal trademark counterfeit Fakes or copies of currently popular brands accompanied by Fiber Yarn Fabric Recognition Effects on cost quality performance Physical features of fabric Fabric structure Fiber Yarn Color and applied design Hand Fiber size effects this Fabric performance durability appearance comfort Manufactured vs natural Manufactured Regenerated cellulosic Synthetics Miscellaneous Natural protein fibers cellulosic More costly refined and luxurious Twist type staple filament Woven Knit Lace Woven ravel Plain prone to wrinkling Twill diagonal weave most durable resists abrasion Satin smooth lustrous flexible prone to snagging Knits curl Filling knits are the majority single double and warp are less important Prints Dye Pigments Dyeing and printing add color to undyed fabrics called greige goods Dyestuffs or dyes Fiber dyeing most expensive Solution dyeing or Dope dyeing are the liquid colorants used to color fabrics Yarn dyed dyeing yarn prior to weaving or knitting the fabric Piece dyed dying fabric in the fabric stage Garment dyeing dyeing to the finished product Printing The application of designs to the fabric using dyes or pigments Understand the four point system of the ASQC for grading fabric assigns penalty points to fabric based on the number and size of defects per yard it protects us the consumer Most companies have on file which contractors overseas what is allowable Most common method to dye in localized area to produce patterns Know the difference definition sub categories Fabric Performance durability comfort appearance AESTHETIC FUNCTIONAL performance of the end product is achieved with selecting the correct fabric and includes Garment design Intended use of garment Season of the year Fashion trends Consumer preferences Cost limitations Target market profile Fabric Defects common methods of detection Color Consistency Luster Opacity Hand Luster how shiny Opacity how sheer Hand the touch the feel not the comfort Effects of Hand drapability flexibility pliable limp fluid to firm stiff crisp compressibility soft to hard extensibility or ease of stretching stretchy to nonstretchy resilience springy alive to limp density compact to loose open surface contour texture rough coarse to smooth surface friction texture harsh to slippery thermal character cool to warm Dimensional Stability dry cleans properly Relates to the ability to neither STRETCH nor SHRINK Torque or skewness fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other Rather than lying at right angles to the selvage Comfort Physiological Psychological Wont wear it if it s uncomfortable Define Appearance Retention Elongation Ability of a fabric to stay the same color retain creases resist wrinkle snagging and pilling and withstand the heat of care processes determines whether the garment maintains its original appearance Colorfastness crocking frosting pilling snagging Ability to be stretched extended or lengthened Varies with conditions wet dry and temperature Permanent stretch Comfort stretch Usually less than 30 Used for less tight fitting garment such as t shirts fashion items Power stretch a fabric elongates more
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