Manufacturer owned operated factories o Independent business hired to provide production services OVERVIEW OF APPAREL INDUSTRY Overview of apparel industry o ready to wear Pret A Porter o Vertical integration Contractor o Private label Store brand o Brand label Proprietary o Global trade terms Import Export Trade deficit To buy goods from another country To sell goods to another country An economic measure of a negative balance of trade in which a country s imports exceeds its exports A trade deficit represents an outflow of domestic currency to foreign markets Prohibition of importing a product A tax on imported goods An annual limit on the volume of a product that may be imported North American Free Trade Agreement Textile Fiber Products Identification Act The specific information that must be on the label is this o Each fiber in the textile must appear on the label as a percent of total fiber content o Must be listed by generic name the trademark name may also be listed but is not required with the largest quantity first next largest quantity second etc Trademark A symbol word or words legally registered or established by use as representing a company or product Embargo Tariff Quota NAFTA TFPIA Copyright Trade dress Patent Counterfeit Knockoff the exclusive legal right to reproduce publish sell or distribute the matter and form of something as a literary musical or artistic work A product s physical appearance including its size shape color design and texture A grant made by a government that confers upon the creator of an invention the sole right to make use and sell that invention for a set period of time Made in exact imitation of something valuable or important with the intention to deceive or defraud A copy or imitation esp of an expensive or designer product Cut make trim Includes the processes of actually manufacturing the product literally it is cutting the fabric sewing the garment together and applying the trims A business or person that carries out work for a company as part of a larger project Grant a license to permit the use of something or to allow an activity to take Free On Board A trade term requiring the seller to deliver goods on board a vessel designated by the buyer The seller fulfills its obligations to deliver when the goods have passed over the ship s rail The buyer s calculation of the total costs of buying and receiving a product somewhat irrespective of selling terms Costing pricing profit o Know the difference between phases of costing Precosting Production costing cost of labor import and shipping fees projected cost to make 1 garment estimates for a sample garment o CMT o Subcontractor o Jobber o Licensing A wholesaler place o FOB o Landed price calculates the cost of a full production run of a garment style including all fees and expenses associated with it Registered identification number Copy or near copy of design under a different brand name An imitation which infringes upon a manufacturer Word or symbol to identify and distinguish a manufacturer o RN o Knock off o Counterfeit o Trademark Classification of the dimensions of garments o Size Fiber yarn fabric o Physical features of fabric are Building blocks of fabric Fiber Yarn Fabric structure Color and applied design o Functional performance of fabric Dimensional stability Relates to the ability to o Neight STRETCH nor SHRINK Torque or skewness Appearance retention o Fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other rather than lying at right angles to the selvage Ability of a fabric to stay the same color retain creases resist wrinkle snagging and pilling and withstand the heat of care processes determines whether the garment maintains its original appearance Care Strength Elongation Elasticity Progressive shrinkage Tolerances Appearance retention Dimensional stability Wicking Effects of hand o Flexibility o Compressibility Ease of bending Pliable high to stiff low Ease of squeezing Soft high to hard low Ease of stretching Stretchy high to nonstretchy low o Extensibility o Resilience o Density Ability to recover from deformation Springy high to limp low Resilience my be flexural compressional extensional or torsional Weight per unit volume based on measurement of thickness and fabric weight Compact high to open low o Surface contour o Thermal character Divergence of the surface from planeness Rough high to slippery low Apparent difference in temperature of the fabric and the skin of the observer touching it Cool high to warm low Standards size and specifications Based on garment measurements Based on body measurements 5 elements of fit Concept of fit Grading o Size o Fit o Ease The amount of difference between body measurements and the garment Measurement from crotch level to the top of waistband general guidelines that reflect the quality level and quality characteristics that are important to a firm s target customer specifically how for a particular style of garment to meet the company s standards a brief written description of materials procedures dimensions and performance for a particular style o Rise o Standards o Specification o Vanity sizing o Size migration cut larger with smaller numbers labeled when women fit into a range of 3 sizes Stitches o 100 Single thread economical Basting temporary stitch Advantages Economical Blind stitch Unravel too easily for use in seams in quality apparel Disadvantages Impression of low quality Lack durability o 200 Hand or machine stitch Machine version requires special machinery and is of very limited use Extremely expensive if done by hand o 300 Lock stitches most widely used Balanced tension Tight and secure Composed of a needle thread interlocked with a bobbin thread Thread interlock between the pieces of the fabric Produces the flattest stitch Allows stitches to blend into the fabric surface Uses the least amount of thread Gives best hand Widely used to sew seams in woven fabrics garment Disadvantages Not very extensible More costly than chain stitches Rupture easily if stretched or strained Can cause more seam pucker Class 300 Zigzag Class 300 blindstitches Join plies of fabric with stitches that are imperceptible or nearly so from the outside of the fabric o 400 Bulkier than lockstitches More thread required Multi threat stitch used widely in apparel not MOST widely used More extensible than lockstitches Use has grown along with the increased production of knit garments Easy to UNRAVEL in
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