Final Exam Study Guide By Liz Epple STITCHES TERMS Vs Lockstitch Is an Interlocked Stitch it s Flatter Less Bulky and has a Higher Tension Visible Top Stitching in better garments Chainstitch Is an Interlooped Stitch It s known for its flexibility Blindstitch Stitch that joins layers of fabric without the needle thread fully penetrating the top layer ASTM D6193 97 Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches Standard that diagrams and defines the conformation of stitches seams and stitching The way of communication for businesses in Product Development STITCH CLASSES A three digit number identifies each stitch class The first number identifies the class and the other digits identify a specific stitch type within that class Ex 101 1 Stitch class 01 Specific Stitch in this case the single thread Chainstitch S 100 Uses a Single thread simple economical and flexible Has the Blindstitch Often used as Basting or Temporary Stitch Lacks durability and leaves impression of low quality S 200 Hand or Machine Stitch Simulates Hand Stitch Limited use because expensive if by hand and machine is special Pickstitch Tiny decorative backstitch also called prickstitch Ex Front Jacket Lapels S 300 Most widely used stitch in apparel Uses least amount of thread Must have Balanced Tension Lockstitch Zigzag and Blindstitch Tight and Secure Stitch Top Stitching on better garments S 400 Used Widely with Knit Garments Less likely to pucker at seam Stronger and more Durable than S 100 Achieves high production speed More prone to unraveling which also makes alterations easier Most likely to allow Seam Grin Seam Grin unsightly result that occurs when the seam line spreads open exposing the stitches so that they appear similar to the teeth of a grin S 500 Encases edge of fabric while completing seam Also CALLED Overlock Serge Overcast or the Merrow stitch Chainstitch Interlooped Extensible Flexible stretches without breaking Most Extensible of all the stitch classes Conserves fabric because of little seam allowance Reduces labor and Prevents edges from unraveling Requires more thread Can be uncomfortable Prone to seam grin S 600 Elastic stitches used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling Also called Cover Flat Seam Interlock or Flatlock Stitches STRONG Little to No seam allowance Used commonly for Underwear Swimwear and Active Wear l s e s s a C m a e S r o j a M 4 SEAMS Superimposed Seams SS Created by stacking fabric plies on top of one another with edges even creating a booked seam and sewing it together near the edge o Most HIGHLY used seam Most common seam is the 301SSa o Always pressed OPEN on inside of garment Called the Butterfly Busted Inexpensive to produce o o Not Bulky o Common names are Plain Enclosed and French seam French Seams Seam within a Seam Lapped Seams LS made by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more fabric plies and sewing them together with the plies extending in opposite directions o MOST variations o Very Durable Jeans Leather Men s Dress Shirts Denim Only usable on Straight Seams o Flat Fell Seam the raw edges of both seam allowances folded under as the seam is stitched o Other common names are Welt Tuck and Slot Seams Bound Seams BS Made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges Indicator of High Quality o o Labor Intensive o Used at Neck Lines Arm holes Hems o Only on Edges o Made to prevent unraveling with increased use of knits Bound Seams use has DECREASED Flat Seams FS Joint in which raw edges are abutted or sometimes slightly overlapped and sewn together w 600 class cover stitch or a zigzag stitch o Also called the Butt or Exposed Seam o Economical Stitch o Little to no seam allowance o Used a lot in Knits and NOT woven Because of seam failure Edge Finish Stitching EF Series of stitches that finishes an edge o Knit Driven o Ornamental Ornamental Stitching OS Series of stitches applied for decorative purposes o Top Stitching has to have perfect distance from edge o Structural o Can FLATTEN seams of the fabric Garment o Used to emphasize Style Line Parts of a Seam Seam Line o Stitched line of a seam o Parallel to and always a specified distance from the raw edge of the fabric Seam Allowance Seam Margin o The narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric Matching Seams Images Superimposed Seams Lapped Seams Bound Seams Flat Seams Edge Finish Stitching Ornamental Stitching Seam Edge Finish o Prevent Raveling and Fraying in Wovens Curling or Rolling in Knits o Fabric Styling Function and Price Point o Should NOT add bulk to the seam Clean Finish Turned over the seam allowance and stitched o Medium to Light weight fabrics Would bulge bulk with heavy fabrics Plain Finish o When a Plain Seam is left Untreated o For garments that will be Fully Lined Pinked Finish o Only used on fabrics that don t ravel easily Bound Finish Covering the raw edges of each ply with a Folded Ribbon Tape or Bias Binding o o Inner Beauty Very Expensive Indicator of High End designer Overcast Finish A series of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance Seam Defects Restitched Seams Broken Stitches Where a splice occurs on the stitch line Seam Slippage Where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge Skipped stitches Where the stitch length is inconsistent possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length Seam Grin Where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted stitch too loose and you can see the seam opening up Improper Stitch Balance Where loops are SEEN either on the bottomside or topside of the seam Puckered Seams Is where the seam does not lay flat after stitching KNITS WOVEN Open Seam Seam Failure Fabric Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured stitchline Stitch Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the Unraveling Buttons Where a tail of thread is visible on the topside of the button and when pulled the button falls off Ragged Inconsistent Edge Where the edge of the seam is either extremely ragged or rolls inside the stitch FINDINGS AND TRIM Closures Refers to the fasteners that secure garment openings o Key component to FIT o Must be tested thoroughly to prevent potential failures Types of Closures o Zippers Can be Functional and or Aesthetic Types Lapped 1 One welt will completely cover the zipper Slot Centered 2 Welts meet at center Exposed 3 Sewn to tape edge visible teeth Fly Front
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