Exam 3 Review Findings All materials other than fabric required to produce a garment Also called notions sundries Support Materials Closures Thread Elastic and Labels Big Aesthetic performance role o Color Key Driver Pattern Color Consistency Luster Opacity Hand Support Materials Underlying Fabric Important for shaping garment body o Interfacing always hidden from view sewn inside Collars Cuffs Button area To achieve shape retention and durability Often Fiberweb Nonwoven fabric o Lining Near replica of the garment constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance o Underlining Lining is attached to outer fabric piece o Interlining Strictly for warmth Support Devices o Shoulder pads Shaping device for shoulder area of garment Tailored Jackets coats Dresses and Blouses Commonly used o Sleeve Headers Sewn into Upper Armhole Sleeve Cap extending out into sleeve to create a soft roll Tailored Coats and Jackets o Collar Stays Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling Permanent or Removable Commonly used today o Boning Stiff plastic steel rigilene strips sewn to garment seams to add shape and support Bodice Bras Corsets and Strapless dresses o Seams Tapes Woven strips of fabric used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Commonly used today o Bra Cups Provide Shape and Support for Bust line Swimsuits Strapless Evening gowns Thread A strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments o Yarn A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fiber filaments or other material Inexpensive cost factor when analyzing Color is important for matching Things to consider when selecting thread o Type Fiber Content Use Care and Life of Garment o Location of Stitching Types 1 Spun Staple Staple fibers spun into a yarn for sewing use 1 Polyester 2 Most Commonly Used 2 Core spun thread that consists of a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Superior in Sewability Stronger than Spun thread Used Excessively in Wovens Elastic BEST choice for Critical Seams More expensive 3 Filament long continuous strands of fibers made from manufactured fibers thermoplastic or silk filament Limited use Monofilament Vs Multifilament Most Common Ruptures Cost Effective because it blends into fabric Very Strong Too Strong bulky for many Fabrics Resistant to Abrasion Elastics Made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another fiber o Defined by its ability to stretch and return to normal shape o Important in shaping garment to body Labels Printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information for the consumer MUST include Fiber Content Country of Origin Producer I D Location and Care Nonwoven Labels Paper Labels are printed and frequently used on casual Instructions and lower priced clothing Woven Labels are the most costly and require the longest lead time LABELING is one of the MOST IMPORTANT types of BRANDING o Hang Tags part of Findings and another avenue of branding Doesn t contain required info like normal labels o Brand Label High Quality Large Colorful in Prominent location Used to help consumer identify product quickly o Flat Label Strips of narrow fabric Ironed on or Fused underside Sewn into the seam o Folded Loop Label Longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the Med Quality o Folded Label A flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label Printed and often Nonwoven o Heat Transfer Label Label is printed directly on to fabric through Heat Low Quality o Direct Printing of Labels Label created by directly applying Dye Pigment Knit Shirts Undergarments and Socks and Pressure onto area of fabric TRIMS Decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinctiveness o Ribbons Braids Laces and other narrow fabric trims o Appliques Beads Embroidery and other decorative items Big Aesthetic performance role o Color Key Driver Pattern Color Consistency Luster Opacity Hand Trim WEIGHT must be compatible w Fabric o How is it attached o Weight in regards to care of garment Linear Trims Surface Stitching Ex Topstitching Fagoting Edge Stitching Dress Maker Details Ex Piping Overlock Stitching Lettuce Edging Seam Edgings Seam Variations Welt Slot seams Narrow Fabric Trims Piping a narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment Corded piping piping with a cord in it to create a round tube Bias tape Hem tape bias cut strips of fabric Laces Ribbons etc Surface Embellishments Embroidery Trims formed by making thread patterns on surface of fabric or garment usually lustrous threads Monograms Floral Cutwork Trapunto Appliques Surface decorations formed by Thread Fabric or Non Fabric Screen Printing application of a printed design as a form of surface materials Ex Beads embellishment Decorative Edging Ruffles Flounces Are strips of fabric gathered to add fullness attached Smocking Stitching that uses decorative stitches to hold the fabric in even to garment accordion like pleats COLLARS Band applied to neckline Component of garment Attached Permanently or Temporarily Types Partial Roll Straighter than neckline stands at back lays flat in front Chelsea Tailored and Shawl Collars Tailored Carefully shaped during construction can be changed dramatically by lowering raising break point Jackets Coats and Dresses Flat Same shape as neckline Popular on Children s Clothes Peter Pan Bertha and Sailor Collars Stand Encircles neck edges are straight in relation to neckline curve Turtleneck Shirt Mandarin and Tie Collars Gather Circular Ruffled Greater neck curves causes style line of collar to fall into soft folds Gathered Pleated to fit neckline seam Cowl Variation of Turtleneck Collar Images Zoom to View NECKLINES Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head Finished with Facing Ribbed Band Bias Binding or Collar Ex Round Square Scooped Sweetheart V Shaped Stand Fits close to neck Style Line The shape of the Outer Edge Roll Line The line where the Collar falls turns over the stand Break Point Point along the front edge at which the Lapel begins to roll back Gorge Line Where the Collar and the Lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between the Lapel and Collar formed where the Gorge Line ends Lapel Designed to attach to the collar
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