CTE3763 Exam 3 Review Recognize common names of garment length High Low Micromini for skirts Sleeve length image below Collars Component parts that surround the neck attached permanently or temporarily Necklines Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped lie flat on the front Ex Chelsea tailored and shawl collars Partial Roll collars Straighter than the neckline stand at the back but Flat collars Same shape as the neckline popular on children s clothes create a youthful feel on adult garments Ex Peter Pan Bertha and sailor collars Peter Pan children s girl s edge causes the collar to encircle the neck Ex turtleneck short mandarin and tie collars Stand Edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve this straight style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Gathered Circular ruffled collars A greater neck curve which causes the Flounces Gathered or pleated to ftr the neckline sea Tailored collar May be used on jackets coats and dresses require more careful shaping during construction can be the focal point of a garment can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the breaking point Shawl collar Similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line Parts of necklines and collars Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar which is formed where the gorge line ends Break point and lapel are both considered stylelines Types of necklines Cowl shawl collar a variation of the turtleneck Appliques Tie Sleeves Designed to fit the armscye or armhole Recognize common sleeve styles Kimono sleeves Recognize common cuffs Back yoke Findings Trim Labels Chapter 8 along with Index Reference Aesthetic Performance of Trims Findings Color pattern color consistency luster opacity and hand Thread A strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments Selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness and ability to form stitches Thread size selection is determined by the weight of the fabric Thread type selection is based upon the location of stitching and type use care and life of the garment Thread should have similar characteristics to fabric Know characteristics of thread types Spun Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Can be polyester and or cotton cotton shrinks Spun polyester is the most common Elastic abrasion resistant and suitable for noncritical seams Corespun Superior in sewability flexibility or many end uses Commonly used especially in wovens A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers expensive Fine stronger than spun threads elastic less apt to cause puckering subject to needle heating and usually the best choice for critical seams Filament Clear thread resembling a fishing line Limited use Monofilament Most common ruptures irritates when next to the skin and is cost effective as it blends into fabric and eliminates need to match thread to fabric Multifilament Very strong and abrasion resistant but too strong for many fabrics You re not always looking for the most durable more durable may pucker Elastics Soffe shorts Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size Used to shape garments and hold them close to the body made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another fiber Findings Play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garment Findings include Support materials closures thread elastic and labels Support Materials Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Support materials include Interlinings Linings and support devices Support devices include Shoulder pads Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill Sleeve headers Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambswool tailor s canvas or fiberfill Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Collar Stays Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Boning Used in the bodice of bras corsets or strapless dresses Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Seam tapes Narrow woven strips of fabric that are similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Bra cups Often attached to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline Usually made of firberfill or foam Support Devices Labels Inner beauty Know basic types of labels and methods of attaching Nonwoven labels Called paper labels printed and frequently used on casual and lower priced clothing Woven labels The most costly and require the longest lead time but most commonly used because it is important for it to stay Government requirements for label information Generic fiber content producer s ID country of origin location and care instructions Label styles Flat labels Strips of narrow fabric in 3 styles Finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others Cut on 2 ends and folded under Ironed on or fused Folded loop label Longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam Folded label A flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label Usually printed and is often nonwoven Heat transfer Most frequently found on knit shirts undergarments and socks Direct printing Digitally printed onto fabric Brand labels Usually large colorful and affixed in a prominent location help the consumer quickly ID the product Hangtags Another avenue of branding Labels Continuum of Quality Highest Quality Medium HIGH Quality Medium Quality Medium LOW Quality Lowest Quality Woven mitered Woven looped or single Screen Printed four side sew Screen Printed cut fold Direct Digital Printed Trims Decorative materials or surface
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