CTE3763 Exam 3 Review Necklines frame the neck provide opening for the head Collars component part that surrounds the neck It can be attached permanently or temporarily Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends Partial Roll Collars Straighter than the neckline Stand at the back but lie flat on the front Ex Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars Flat Collars Same shape as the neckline Youthful feel on adult clothing popular on children clothing Ex Peter Pan collars Bertha and sailor collars Stand Collar Edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve This straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neck Ex turtleneck collars shirt collars mandarin collars and tie collars Gathered and Circular Ruffled Collars Flounces A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam Cowl Collars Variation of the turtle neck Tailored Collars Require more careful shaping during construction May be used on jackets coats and dresses Can be the focal point Can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break point Shawl Collars Similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line Sleeves designed to fit the armscye or armhole Can be varied by changing how the bottom edge is finished Garment Lengths micro mini knee midi maxi floor Findings play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garment Support materials closures thread elastic labels Support Materials most garments contain at least one of those components to foster shape retention and durability Interlining used for warmth Lining Support devices Support Devices Shoulder pads Seam tapes Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Like interfacing underlying fabric helps support certain areas like collars cuffs hems and whereas Underlying Fabrics needed for support Sleeve headers Collar Stays wrinkling Boning Bra Cups Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or Used in bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bust line Thread strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments Spun Thread staple fibers spun into single yarns Spun polyester most common elastic abrasion resistant suitable for noncritical seams Corespun Thread a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Fine Stronger than spun threads Elastic Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating Usually the best choice for critical seams Filament Thread limited use Clear thread resembling a fishing line Monofilament most common Ruptures Cost effective as it blends into fabric and eliminates need to match thread to fabric Irritates when next to the skin Multifilament very strong and abrasion resistant Too strong for many fabrics Elastics ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size Shape the garments and hold them close to the body Labels printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information for the consumer Nonwoven labels called paper labels are printed and frequently used on casual and lower priced clothing Woven labels are the most costly and require the longest lead time Brand labels Usually large colorful and affixed in a prominent location that help the consumer quickly identify the product Label Styles Flat Labels strips of narrow fabric in threes styles Finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others Cut on two ends and folded under Ironed on or fused Folded Loop labels long flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam Folded Label a flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label Usually printed and I often nonwoven Heat Transfer label style most frequently found on knit shirts undergarments and socks Woven mitered Woven looped or single Screen Printed four side sew Screen Printed cut fold LABELS AND QUALITY Highest Quality Medium HIGH Quality Medium Quality Medium LOW Quality Government Label Requirements Producers identification Generic fiber content Country of origin Location Care instructions Trims decorative material or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinctiveness Linear trims lines on the surface or edges of the garment Piping narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment Corded piping piping with a cord in it to create a round tube Bias tape hem tape bias cut strips of fabric Appliques surface decorations formed by thread fabric non fabric materials such as grommets sequins and beads Embroidery trim formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garment Quality Features the physical features of a garment determine its performance Performance features the garments aesthetic and functional features o Determines the standards it meets and how it benefits the consumer Determinant Attributes 1 Aesthetic performance attractiveness 2 Functional performance function Selling Points when the associate is talking about physical points about the garment Buying Points more performance characteristics Extrinsic Attributes feature that can be altered without changing the garment includes image and price 1 Price consumers use this as a quality cue BUT not always 2 Image 3 Brand Name reputation of the brand 4 Country of Origin not buying something made in china because it might me cheaper true religions at retail are made in USA but the outlet jeans are made in Mexico 5 Reputation of the Retailer Intrinsic Attributes cannot be altered without changing the garment Price Lines or ZONES families of garments
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