Study Guide Test 2 by Liz Epple Seams l s e s s a C m a e S r o j a M 4 Superimposed Seams SS Created by stacking fabric plies on top of one another with edges even creating a booked seam and sewing it together near the edge o Most HIGHLY used seam Most common seam is the 301SSa o Always pressed OPEN on inside of garment Called the Butterfly Busted Inexpensive to produce o o Not Bulky o Common names are Plain Enclosed and French seam French Seams Seam within a Seam Lapped Seams LS made by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more fabric plies and sewing them together with the plies extending in opposite directions o MOST variations o Very Durable Jeans Leather Men s Dress Shirts Denim Only usable on Straight Seams o Flat Fell Seam the raw edges of both seam allowances folded under as the seam is stitched o Other common names are Welt Tuck and Slot Seams Bound Seams BS Made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges Indicator of High Quality o o Labor Intensive o Used at Neck Lines Arm holes Hems o Only on Edges o Made to prevent unraveling with increased use of knits Bound Seams use has DECREASED Flat Seams FS Joint in which raw edges are abutted or sometimes slightly overlapped and sewn together w 600 class cover stitch or a zigzag stitch o Also called the Butt or Exposed Seam o Economical Stitch o Little to no seam allowance o Used a lot in Knits and NOT woven Because of seam failure Edge Finish Stitching EF Series of stitches that finishes an edge o Knit Driven o Ornamental Ornamental Stitching OS Series of stitches applied for decorative purposes o Top Stitching has to have perfect distance from edge o Structural o Can FLATTEN seams of the fabric o Used to emphasize Style Line Garment Parts of a Seam Seam Line o Stitched line of a seam o Parallel to and always a specified distance from the raw edge of the fabric Seam Allowance Seam Margin o The narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric Standards for Evaluating Seam Types ASTM D6193 97 Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches Standard that diagrams and defines the conformation of stitches seams and stitching Seam Identifications are written into specifications by Straight Seams Curved Seams 5 8 Better Garments SS Seam Class ae Seam Type Influences Appearance Durability Comfort Ease of Alteration Choice depends on Seam Location End Use of Garment Styling Factors and Equipment available for production Seam Specification performance cohesive with Fabric performance o Placement on garment o Care of garment o Seam should be STRAIGHT and EVEN o Seams should lie Straight Flat Smooth and NO Puckers o Seam Width must be in conjunction with Quality and Seam Finish Seam Edge Finish o Prevent Raveling and Fraying in Wovens Curling or Rolling in Knits o Fabric Styling Function and Price Point o Should NOT add bulk to the seam Clean Finish Turned over the seam allowance and stitched o Medium to Light weight fabrics Would bulge bulk with heavy fabrics Plain Finish o When a Plain Seam is left Untreated o For garments that will be Fully Lined Pinked Finish o Only used on fabrics that don t ravel easily Bound Finish Covering the raw edges of each ply with a Folded Ribbon Tape or Bias Binding o o Inner Beauty Very Expensive Indicator of High End designer Overcast Finish A series of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance Seam Performance Seam Strength is affected by Type and width strength and ravel tendency and stitch characteristics Depends on How it is stitched pressed and finished o As well as Fit Fabric and Care of Garment Edge Finishes Methods other than Hems include Facings Cut on Facings and Bias Strip 1 Shaped or Separate Facing Fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they face Cut on same grain as fabric piece they face Most often cut from the same fabric of the garment Quality Indicator Ideal for shaped necklines hems sleeveless armholes because they conform to any shape Shaped facings are Sewn On NOT Folded Back Securing Facing The seam allowance of the facing is stitched to the SA of garment 1 4 from edge Hand Stitching 2 Extended Facing Simple Less Labor More Fabric Can ONLY be used on Straight Edges 3 Bias Facing Less Fabric Cost Efficient Facing is wide Low in Bulk Useful for sheer fabrics NOT suited for intricately shaped edges Wider Facing More Fabric More Quality Seam Defects Restitched Seams Broken Stitches Where a splice occurs on the stitch line Seam Slippage Where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge Skipped stitches Where the stitch length is inconsistent possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length Seam Grin Where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted stitch too loose and you can see the seam opening up Improper Stitch Balance Where loops are SEEN either on the bottomside or topside of the seam Puckered Seams Is where the seam does not lay flat after stitching KNITS WOVEN Open Seam Seam Failure Fabric Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured stitchline Stitch Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the Unraveling Buttons Where a tail of thread is visible on the topside of the button and when pulled the button falls off Ragged Inconsistent Edge Where the edge of the seam is either extremely ragged or rolls inside the stitch Matching Seams Images Superimposed Seams Lapped Seams Bound Seams Flat Seams Edge Finish Stitching Ornamental Stitching Hems EF Edge Finishing Hem Is any finish at the edge of a garment Most common form of edge treatment Aesthetic Finish Keeps Wovens from raveling Knits from curling Hem Allowance The width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and hem edge Deep Visible Hem Quality Indicator Hem Edge The raw edge of the hem Hem Finish Application for neatening to hem edge Hemline The edge of the garment Hem Variations Stitched Hand Stitched Glued or Fused 3 Basic Hems 1 Turned up Hem Most common Can be Hand Machine stitched 2 Faced Hem Curled or Flared Hem Curved 3 Enclosed Edge Hem Enclosed by Binding Banding Factors affecting selection of Hem and Finish Weight Characteristics Price and Labor Durability Evaluating Guidelines for Hems All topstitching and edge stitching is stitched an even distance from the edge Parallel to the floor Hem is consistent in size and shape from one end to another End use Success of Retail Market Hems that can t be altered must perfectly grasp silhouette of
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