CTE3763 Final Exam 12 08 2012 Ready to wear Clothing that is mass produced includes any garment that is not custom made for the wearer Pret A Porter French term for Ready to wear Vertical Integration When the same firm is responsible for multiple steps in the production or marketing of a product Manufactured owned and operated factories Independent business hired to provide production services is known as a Contractor Also called an outside shop Private Label Brand developed by or for a specific retailer Also called private brand or store brand Brand Label Branded Apparel Clothing developed by a manufacturer and sold to many retailers under the trademarked brand Also called name brand national brand or brand Proprietary Import the buying and shipping of goods from another country Export to sell goods to another country Trade deficit when a country imports more goods than its exports Embargo denial of entry of goods into a country Tariff duty or tax placed on imported goods Quota limit on the quantity of items that may be imported NAFTA North American Free Trade Association Policy creating a single North American market for goods originating in the U S Canada and Mexico European Union EU Trading bloc of European countries Textile Fiber Products Identification Act TFPIA Federal law that requires all apparel sold in the U S to have a label that identifies 3 things Fiber Content Manufacturer Country of origin Trademark A registered brand name or symbol Copyright Exclusive right to reproduce a work of art Trade Dress Refers to the shape and features of the product itself that are not only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product Patent Exclusive right to produce an item Counterfeit vs Knockoff Counterfeit is the fake copy of a currently popular branded apparel that illegally uses the rightful producer s brand name or trademark A Knockoff is the legal copy that closely resembles a design shown by another firm under a different brand name Phases of Costing Pre costing Preliminary estimate of what it will cost to produce a garment also called quick cost Production costing A detailed accurate costing that allows the manufacturer to accurately predict the cost of producing a garment Matching 1 Registered identification number Registered Number RN 2 Copy or near copy of design under a different brand name Knock off 3 An imitation which infringes on a manufacturer Counterfeit 4 Word or symbol to identify and distinguish a manufacturer Trademark 5 Clarification of the dimensions of garments Size Stages of Product Development 1 Line Concept Basically where you take the mood or theme of delivery and key elements Know the term BIG IDEAS for this one Key item drivers are often times what keep a business afloat They are your best sellers Key items are the profit of your line 2 Line Development when your design team translates your forecasting merchandising creative concepts etc This is when all of these factors are developed into the product Line development is a result of creativity 3 Line Presentation Where you take the key players of a company top management technical production team sales team and marketing team and they make a presentation Shows the proposed line the top players are going to go into production on 4 Line Plan Where you have the sales team evaluate the merchandise mix have they strayed too far from the customer do they have their key item drivers Are they going to retain target market grow target market capture new market etc All of this feedback comes from sales 5 Technical Planning Defines styles by developing specifications Very detailed Fit and color standards garment stress testing garment specs grading etc Has a huge impact on QUALITY 6 Production Planning Taking merchandising and linking it with all of the technical and design Requires a lot of teamwork 7 Assortment Planning Quantity of each item that you are producing and going to offer on your line The bigger your quantity the bigger your pricing Quantity is directly related to pricing The big item drivers are the basis of your line Two factors from this stage quantity and price 8 Merchandising Plan A merchandiser works for one company and they are responsible to present to the customer a compelling reason of why they want to buy the product Matching 1 Links concepts to target customer Forms merchandising plan line plan assortment plan sourcing Business Plan 2 Planning development presentation of a product Merchandising Plan 3 Developing fit standards color standards fabric testing garment testing Technical Planning 4 Aims objectives strategy for future of the company Strategic Planning Physical Features of Fabric Fiber Yarn Fabric Structure Color and applied design Functional Performance of Fabric Dimensional stability Ability to maintain original shape size Appearance retention Care Strength Elongation amount a fabric is able to stretch or extend in use Elasticity a fabrics ability to return to its original size after being stretched Progressive shrinkage reduction in size of garment or garment parts usually occurs during laundering Tolerances the difference between the allowable minimum and maximum of a specification or standard Effects of Hand Flexibility Ease of bending Pliable high to stiff low Compressibility Ease of squeezing Soft high to hard low Extensibility Ease of stretching Stretchy high to non stretchy low Resilience Ability to recover from deformation Springy high to limp low Density Weight per unit volume based of thickness fabric weight Compact high to open low Surface Contour Divergence of the surface from planeness Rough high to smooth low Surface Friction Resistance to slipping offered by the surface Harsh high to slippery low Thermal Character Apparent diff in temperature of the fabric the skin of the observer touching it Cool high to warm low Size Fit Sizing based on body measurements Standard sizing Voluntary Standards SizeUSA survey anthropometric research developed to gather United States sizing data ASTM Fit based on garment measurements How well the garment conforms to the three dimensional human body A measure of the conformance of the product to the body with considerations for ease of study and ease of movement Exact measurements or dimensions of the product relative to the dimensions of the wearer or user How consumer feels in the product or during use of the product FIVE ELEMENTS OF FIT Ease the difference between body measurements and the garment Line the
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