CTE373 Exam 3 Study Guide Test on Wednesday 11 28 ay 3 35pm in DIF128 bring pencils RECOGNIZE COMMON NAMES OF GARMENT LENGTHS P 128 164 65 this information is not in the power points and limited in the book Jacket length where fingers naturally curl should cover men s buttocks women s depends on trends and figure Shirts shirttail 6 inches below the waist most cut longer in the back Neckties reach top of belt buckle Sleeve length long sleeves cover the wrist bone shirt should extent longer than jacket French cuffs extend 1 to show cufflinks Skirt length most flattering will cover fullest part of the leg and expose slender lower leg and ankle floor length are hemmed above floor Pant length either skim top of the show or be a little longer so they break pic p 165 Some women s pants are canted or longer in the back to cover shoes cuffed pants are always parallel to floor Suits American standard single breasted natural shoulder drapes loosely around body very slight taper at waist lapels are medium witch notched center back vent pants are cuffed or uncuffed European cut jackets are sleek angular flatter a slimmer man shoulders are heavily padded and square fitted to waist lapels sometimes peaked often double breasted either 2 back vents or none no cuffed pants no vests British cut a mix of the above slightly padded shoulder somewhat fitted waist two deep back vents pants are often cuffed with shorter rise Drop The difference between the measurement of the chest of the jacket and the waist of a pant 6 is standard 7 9 for developed chest trim waist smaller drop for a spreading waistline RECOGNIZE COMMON NAMES OF NECKLINES COLLARS Necklines Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped Collars Component parts that surround the neck are attached permanently or temporarily 1 Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends 2 partial roll collar flat collar stand collar gathered circular flounce cowl neck 3 RECOGNIZE COMMON SLEEVE STYLES RECOGNIZE MOST COMMON SUPPORT DEVICES underlying fabrics see next page shoulder pads Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill stay tape device used to stabilize a seam Shoulder pads polyester fiberfill Sleeve headers Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs wool tailor s canvas or fiberfill 4 Collar stays Boning Seam tapes Bra cups Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline Usually made of fiberfill or foam lend shape and support to garments Ex interfacings linings Findings Trim Labels Ch 8 Index Reference CHARACTERISTICS OF THREAD TYPES spun Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Ex Spun polyester most common elastic abrasion resistant suitable for noncritical seams core spun A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Characteristics fine stronger than spun threads elastic less apt to cause puckering subject to needle heating usually the BEST choice for critical seams filament Clear thread resembling a fishing line limited use monofilament most common ruptures irritates when next to the skin cost effective as it blends into fabric eliminates need to match thread to fabric multifilament very strong abrasion resistant however too strong for many fabrics UNDERLYING FABRICS underlining s and interlinings starts p 227 Interfacing Fabrics the same weigh or lighter than the fabric of the garment woven interfacing strong add shape without looking boardy don t stretch cut on grain ravel most costly knit interfacing stretch adds drape don t ravel cost less than woven extra yarn fiberweb interfacing good stability not drapable no grain don t ravel less durable pilling least costly Lining fabrics usually woven fabrics specifically satin weaves because they slide on and off easily High quality ones smooth lightweight stain resistant durable same care requirements as garment adds warmth if needed absorbent static free opaque and color pattern match garment Underlinings crisper and add shape Interlining fabric lightweight fabrics that keep you warm polyester fleece is common b c cheap but wool is most traditional interlining 5 BASIC TYPES OF LABELS AND METHODS OF ATTACHING Nonwoven labels called paper labels are printed and frequently used on casual and lower priced clothing are the most costly and Woven labels require the longest lead time Flat labels Strips of narrow fabric in three styles Finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others Cut on two ends and folded under Ironed on or fused Folded loop label Longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam Folded label A flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label Usually printed and is often nonwoven Heat transfer Most frequently found on knit shirts undergarments socks Direct Printing STUDY TIP go back under blackboard Week 10 and review the visuals on 3763 wk 10 REVIEW necklines collars sleeves pptx and 3763 necklines pptx Findings all materials other than fabrics required to produce a garment Also called notions or sundries Ex support materials closures thread elastic labels Thread Yarn that forms stiches that hold garments together Labels
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