Recognize common names of garment lengths o Skirts The sweep of the skirt isn t length but circumference of the skirt o Pants Break refers to the slight indentation that occurs between the knee and the ankle when the pant hits the top of the shoe Canted back of the slacks legs are cut from to an inch longer than the fronts causing the hem to fall at an angle from the front to the back of the pant legs Recognize common names of necklines collars o Necklines Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped o Collars Component parts that surround the neck Are attached permanently or temporarily Partial roll collars o Straighter than the neckline o Stand at the back but lie flat on the front o Examples include Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars Flat collars garments Stand collar o Same shape as the neckline o Popular on children s clothes they create a youthful feel on adult o Examples include Peter Pan collars Bertha collars and sailor collars o Edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve o This straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neck o Examples include turtleneck collars shirt collars mandarin collars and tie Flounces collars folds o A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft o Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam o Necklines Collars Cowl collars Tailored collars o Are a variation of the turtleneck o Require more careful shaping during construction o May be used on jackets coats and dresses o Can be the focal point o Can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break point Shawl collars o Similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line Recognize common sleeve styles Recognize most common support devices o incorporated into garments to achieve or maintain desired shape include Underlying fabrics shoulder pads stay tape belts collar stays chest pieces etc Fabrics findings and trim Findings are everything on the garment expect the shell they play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garment Aesthetic Performance of Trims Findings o Color o Pattern o Color consistency o Luster o Opacity o Hands o Support materials o Closures o Thread o Elastic o Labels Findings include Support Materials include o Interlinings o Linings o Support devices o Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Support Devices o Shoulder pads Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill o Sleeve headers fiberfill Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs wool tailor s canvas or Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve o Collar stays o Boning o Seam tapes Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel o Bra cups Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline Usually made of fiberfill or foam Know characteristics of thread types o Spun Thread Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Spun polyester most common Elastic Abrasion resistant Suitable for noncritical seams o Corespun Thread A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Stronger than spun threads Fine Elastic Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating Usually the BEST choice for critical seams o Filament Thread limited use most common Clear thread resembling a fishing line Monofilament Ruptures Cost effective as it blends into fabric eliminates need to match Irritates when next to the skin thread to fabric Multifilament However too strong for many fabrics Underlying Fabrics very strong abrasion resistant Know basic types of labels and methods of attaching o Flat labels Strips of narrow fabric in three styles Finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others Cut on two ends and folded under Ironed on or fused Longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that o Folded loop label can be sewn into the seam o Folded label A flat piece folded in half sewn directly into a seam or attached to the edge of another label Usually printed and is often nonwoven o Heat transfer knit shirts Most frequently found on Undergarments socks o Direct Printing of Labels Garment Assembly Parts Panels Pieces The stage where the garment is created Good design fine quality raw materials along do not constitute a quality product Properly executed production techniques are essential FOUR PARTS TO ASSEMBLY o PARTS ASSEMBLY Edges serged Labels attached Decorative stitching s added Trims added o PANEL ASSEMBLY Darts Pleats Tucks Ease o PIECE ASSEMBLY Collar set Sleeves set Cuffs set Waistbands Pockets set Interfacing reinforcements applied Gathers Seams Elastic Hems Shoulder pads attached Lining applied o PRODUCT ASSEMBLY FINISHING Buttons attached Buttonholes Button loops made Snap Fasteners applied Hooks eyes attached Miscellaneous closures applied Finish pressing done Summary of Preliminary Garment Assembly o Garment shaping begins on PANELS o Pleats tucks should be parallel on straight of grain o Gathers ease evenly distributed o Patterns such as plaids stripes should be matched at most seams of the garment o Seams sewn in the round are generally preferable to those sewn flat o Single needle tailoring is a mark of quality Cost Pricing and Profit Cost estimating the total cost of producing a garment Price The amount of money expected required or given in payment for Overhead Costs expenses of operating a business beyond the direct costs of something producing garments Pricing Strategies o Status Prestige Pricing Price is set well over the cost Based on the theory that the consumer values the styling and the prestige of the brand o Market Penetration Pricing Where the prices are set as close as feasible to cost to maximize volume of sales by taking market share away from others or to gain market share Brands that are known or identifiable where they are
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