3763 Exam 3 Review Support materials o Lining lightweight fabric that provides a finished appearance to the interior Smooth does not show raw edges and easy to put on or off o Interlining strictly for WARMTH o Interfacing body shape reinforcement provider Thread is the CHEAPEST or least expensive of all costing elements May cost pennies per inch but the usage of it in a garment is a lot 1 Spun thread spun and corespun are the most commonly used o spun Polyester pull but gives and retains the shape o this type of thread is used when there is not a lot of stress on the seams not a lot of strain like not mens work pants o Can be cotton or synthetic fibers 2 Corespun thread stronger than spun and elastic o Best for critical seams because they are nice thin and strong and in general don t pucker as much o Overall Superior in sewability o One of the more expensive thread forms used in wovens a lot compared to spun threads 3 Filament Thread clear thread resembling a fishing line o monofilament thread very strong inexpensive has great color matching capability Usually only used in lower priced garments and hems yarn w greater elasticity and often used in knits o Multifilament Elastic ability to stretch to its original size Nonwoven labels lower priced printed and can easily be attached to the garment Woven labels have to be sourced have to choose a minimum of construction Most duable over your nonwoven create a high end quality impression Brand Labels a way of promoting status Label styles define the quality Heat transfer printed directly on the garment shell Important to know the range of label quality affects the costing Label Costing Continuum cheapest and most expensive labels Highest quality woven or mitered labels Lowest quality direct digitally printed label Trims mostly used with children Examples Lily Pulitzer uses trims a lot Standards for evaluating soft trim Trim has to be compatible w garment with weight garment care and design Flexible trim is used on CURVES of the garment Neckline types Plain jewel Scoop Bow Halter Gathered Crew V neck Bateau or Boatneck Keyhole Sweetheart Decolletage Henley One shoulder Cowl Strapless REMEMBER THAT INTERFACING ADDS BODY AND IS USED A LOT ON COLLARS Flat collars collars circle neckline follows the shape of the neckline Example peter pan Stand collar lots of variations of this HAS INTERFACING for body Tailored collar Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Breakline Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends Fabrication can bring a garment to life Difference between a set in sleeve and a Raglan sleeve Set in Sleeve at the armhole Raglan sleeve seam begins at the neckline Garment Assembly Parts Panels pieces Edges are serged together to avoid raveling Decorative stitching OS ornamental stitching Panel Assembly where shaping is created by everything flat seams side seam and rounded seams arm sleeve Pattern pieces are laid on the grain properly Gathers and ease puff sleve or skirt are examples Patterns like plaids and stripes if they are not matched up it shows a sign of cheap quality fast fashion if it is matched up it shows a sign of higher quality This can be tricky Product Assembly Product is the final assembly Findings and closure treatments Seasonal planning fall and spring plans Clearly planned objectives a road map Long term Expanding is best for the company and its products Planning Quality product must go with perception of brand and meet deadlines You can truly risk going under if you don t Scheduling Timing equiptment are both long and short term planning NUMBER ONE GOAL WHEN SCHEDULING IS TO MAXIMIZE EFFICIENCY The farther out we commit to production the better price and cost we get Schedules on legal contracts Schedules and product are crucial from start date and completion date Goods need to be on time Not good to be early with shipments 5 major seasons Spring Summer Fall Holiday Resort Most unprofitable one resort PERT Program Evaluation and Review Technique A system that is all about production Shorten Lead time 1 Events major programs of production 3 Critical Path Is production on time Are quality factors in place Distribution 3 types 1 Distribution Center DC Inventory coming and selling very quickly Inventory is high bad Keep inventories low base knowledge a b c Decreased handling cost 2 DC Bypass 3 Cross Docking No late shipping QR codes all about speed All about productivity Quick Response A system that acknowledges what you are selling especially on basic goods Planning and Production 1 Aesthetic Performance making process The 1 HIGHEST determinant over functional when it goes to our decision At point of sale what we see The attractiveness of what is on the selling floor design elements and principles make a determination of the garment Color line shape form texture along with GOOD DESIGN PRINCIPLES balance proportion emphasis rhythm and unity All of these reflect good design principles 2 Functional Performance Sports related Fabric wear and tear shrinkage color change fading etc Does the garment fit Lycra spandex Etc Includes functional features other than appearance Quality Plays into if you are a Burberry customer and have an issue for something what you pay for of intended performance Selling points are the physical points that make it desirable Price is absolutely a cue of quality More investment dressing you expect more from quality Most consumers believe there is a relationship between price and quality Price is the 1 driver of buying decisions Extrinsic Attributes CAN be altered without changing the garment You CAN change price Perceived Quality Model p 51 Figure 3 4 Target Markets how apparel brands target their consumer base Total cost total number of times worn cost per wear 1 Pre Production Quality Assurance a When you are developing your line and working as a team When designers in concept meetings sales team etc and what will be finalized when you go to pricing 2 DURING production 3 POST Production a Ongoing process of monitoring the garment assembly b Checking for print irregularities etc Standards and Specs Show all of
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