Exam 1 Review Know the differences between o Textile and Apparel industry The textile industry is composed of Fiber yarn fabric and some other findings procedures Converters that dye print and finish cloth Wholesale representatives who may sell fabrics and findings to apparel producers The apparel industry is made up of Apparel manufacturers and converters Garment wet producers Apparel wholesale representatives and direct importers who may sell garments to retailers Apparel retailers including department and specialty stores boutiques and specialty stores warehouse retailers catalog showrooms etc o Wholesale and retail Wholesale representatives or sales reps are agents of the apparel manufacturing companies they sell the finished garment to retailers Retailers sell to the ultimate consumer Traditional retailers buy finished apparel products from domestic manufacturers and or direct importers and sell them to the consumer Manufacturing retailers manufacture all or most of their products ex Gap o Vertical and horizontal integration Vertical integration occurs when the same firm is responsible for multiple steps in the production or marketing of the apparel product Horizontal integration Contractor and Manufacturer A traditional manufacturer has complete responsibility for the design fabric and finding purchases production and sale of finished garments to the retailer Contractors primarily provide labor and equipment they profit from their labor Inside and Outside shops Inside shops are manufacturer owned and operated factories Outside shops are independent contractors Branded and private labels o o o Branded apparel is clothing developed by Manufacturer and sold to many retailers under the trademarked brand Private label is a brand developed by or for a specific retailer also called private brand or store brand Key terms Import to buy goods from another country Export to sell goods to another country Trade deficit situation that occurs when a country imports more than it exports Embargo denial of entry of goods into a country Tariff duty or tax placed on imported apparel o o o o o o Quota limit on the quantity of items that may be imported Define o NAFTO North American Free Trade Agreement is a policy creating a single North American Market for goods originating in United States Canada and Mexico o WTO World Trade Organization is an international group gradually phasing out and taking place of GATT TFPIA Textile Fiber Products Identification Act is a federal law requiring that all apparel sold in the US have a label that identifies fiber content manufacturer and country of origin o Quality degree of excellence and conformance to requirements or the extent to which a garment meets expectations Cost ratio cost per wear purchase price divided by the number of times the garment is worn assists determining the value Prevention Vs Detection Labeling RN Trademark a registered brand name or symbol Copyright exclusive right to reproduce a work of art Trade dress refers to the shape and features of the product itself that are not only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product Counterfeit Vs Knockoff Counterfeit fake copy of currently popular branded apparel accompanied by the illegal use of the rightful producer s brand name or trademark Knockoff the legal copy or near copy of the general idea of a design shown by another firm under a different brand name Fiber Yarn Fabric Recognition Effects on cost quality performance o Physical Features of Fabric Fiber fine hair like structure raw material from which fabric is made Yarn continuous strand of fibers thread used to make fabric Fabric structure o o o o o o Voluntary labels o o o Plain weave twill eave satin weave Fancy weave Dobby jacquard crepe pile Woven Knit Filling or weft Jersey rib purl Warp Double Tricot rachel Rib interlock Other Lace twisting quilted flocked Color and applied design Undyed fabrics are called greige goods Dyes dyestuffs the liquid colorants used to color fabrics fiber dyeing solution dyeing or dope dying is the dyeing of manufactured fibers while in the liquid form yarn dyed piece dyed dyed in the fabric stage garment dyed Hand Emotional sensations resulting from touching moving or squeezing the fabric with human hand Affected by Body temperature room temperature psychological state of being physiological state of being association Effects of hand Drapability flexibility or ease of bending Rank from pliable limp fluid high to firm stiff crisp low Compressibility or ease of squeezing Rank from soft to hard Influence comfort Extensibility or ease of stretching Rank from stretchy to non stretchy Influences shaping of seams and other devices Resilience or ability to recover from deformation Rank from springy alive high to limp low Influence wrinkle resistance Density or weight per volume Rank from compact high to loose open low Thermal character or apparent texture Rank from cool to high Surface contour texture or surface resistance to slipping Rank from harsh to slippery Influence ease of production Regenerated cellulosic synthetic miscellaneous o Manufactured Vs Natural Manufactured Natural Protein cellulosic o Twist type staple filament S Twist Z Twist Staple is short most natural except silk Filament is long all manufactured unless cut o Prints dyes pigments Prints Discharge printing Direct printing Chemically removing dye in places so the fabric can be printed in those spots with a lighter color roller process of applying a pattern by rolling it onto fabric using a series of different color cylinders Screen printing process of applying colored ink through a screen that has some areas blocked off to create a stencil Heat transfer printing process of transferring a design from specially processed paper to fabric using heat and pressure Digital printing creating patterns from the computer directly onto fabric using a computer printer Dyes are absorbed Pigments stay on top of the fabric Grading fabric ASQC four points system certification process Know definition difference and sub categories o Fabric performance Durability 1 Maintaining or gaining access to a market where ISO or equivalent compliance is required 2 Meeting the requirements of a single customer 3 Matching the challenge of a competitor who has become certified 4 Seeking the greater focus on and awareness of quality that comes about through the ISO Knits care must be exercised to avoid snagging or pulling yarn cloth can run if yarn is
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