3763 Seam Classes Flat fell seams LS Lapped seams Made by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more fabric plies and sewing them together with fabric plies extending in opposite directions Always have top stitching LSc flat felled seams is the most common 1 Made by folding under or felling the raw edges of both seam allowance as the seam is stitched 2 Strong and durable 3 Prevent raveling because of raw edges 4 Used for heavy fabric ex denim 5 Usually bulky rigid difficult to alter 6 Can be used only on straight or fairly straight edges Plain Seams SS Superimposed seams Most common seam for joining major garment pieces together For major structural seams such as side waist and sleeve seams the fabric plies are sewn face sides together near the edge and then opened Appears as a line With no visible stiches on the outside of garment but the seam allowances are visible inside garment Plain seams may be topstitched on one or both sides to provide decorative Not bulky easy to alter and inexpensive to produce Butterflied when the seam allowances are pressed to one side or they may effect be pressed open 1 Reduces bulk 2 Reduction of bulk contributes to attractiveness and comfort 3 Found in high quality garments BS Bound seams Found only at edges Made using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges Not used to create structural seams Used to cover and finish raw edges 1 Example neckline armholes waistlines hems hem and seam allowance FS Flat seams Join fabric plies whose raw or sometimes folded edges are abutted or sometimes slightly lapped and sewn together A K A butt seams or exposed seams Appear similar on both sides the stitches cover the raw edges and are visible on the face and back seam Economical in fabric usage and are the least bulky No seam allowance so they cannot be let out to enlarge the garment Used in knit garments where thick seams are intolerable 1 Ex underwear foundation garments sweatshirts sweatpants and some childrenswear Fused Seam Using heat Ex plastic rainwear Low cost Glued seam Ex leather vinyl A lapped single ply seam joined by adhesive Common Seam names Over edged seam A K A merrowed or surged Protects from raveling when close Has less seam allowance Hairline seam Used on sheer and lightweight woven fabrics Especially nice for collars and enclosed areas and can be used on straight or curved areas Bias Seam Forms horizontal softened Mostly found in skirts and found up class dresses On outside of garment seen a little cording Either corded seam or piped seam Horizontal line at waist and vertical line going down Butterfly seam Often found where you need more structure or support Seen more on active clothing Corded seam Crossed seam Stayed seam Taped seam Created by staying them with narrow strips of twill tape or fabric In very fine garment For reinforcement Seam finishes Plain finish Clean finish When a plain seam is left untreated Garments that will be fully lined A K A turned and stitched To create the raw edge of the seam or hem allowance is folded under once and stitched Essentially it is a narrow hem on the edge Adds bulk so limited to light and medium weight fabrics Costly because it requires four passes through sewing machine Stitched and pinked finish Used only on firmly woven fabrics or items with little wear Sometimes used as decorative edge but does not prevent or retard raveling Book finish More designer The raw edge of each seam allowance is folded under and secured to the seam allowance ply by a concealed blind stitch Double Stitched finish Used for knit fabrics on seam allowances that are pressed together to one When used on lightweight knot fabrics it is to prevent seam allowances from side and treated as one rolling or curling Hong Kong finish substance used for coats jackets and other items with exposed seams Can add decorative touch if a contrasting print fabric is used as the binding Seam Defects Broken seam A K A broken stitches Occurs when the stitches break and the seam splits apart or bursts Usually due to using wrong thread size wrong stitch type wrong seam type unbalanced stitch tension long stich length or incorrect needle Seam Slippage Most often found in garments of coarsely woven fabrics Occurs when fabric pulls away from the stiches at the seamline eventually producing a raw edge Slippage occurs when the thread stitch or seam type is stronger or more stable then the fabric Seen in fabrics constructed with filament yarns that are very smooth and have slick surface Skipped stiches where the stich length is inconsistent Can see that the threads are not properly connected together Chain stitch over edge Lockstitch skipped stiches Skipped stiches Open Seam seam failure stich Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stich line Open seam seam failure fabric Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured Excessive seam puckering woven Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along stichline Puckered seams knits and stretch woven Where the seam does not lay flat after stitching Excessive seam grin Where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted Stitch to loose and you can see the seam opening up Improper stitch balance 301 lockstitch where loops are seen either on the bottom side or topside of the seam Improper stitch balance 401 chain stitch where the loops on the bottom side of the seam are inconsistent and do not appear uniform improper stitch balance 504 over edge stitch where the needle loop is not pulled up to the underside of the seam and the purl is not on the edge of the seam Definitions Seam allowance narrow width between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric also called seam margin Raw edges hole in the seam caused by not stitching both seam allowances deeply enough Seam joint resulting when two or more fabric pieces are sewn together Hem and edge treatments Hem o A hem is any finish at the edge of a garment o Also referred to as EF edge finish Hem allowance amount turned under in a hem Hem edge raw edge of the hem Hem finish application of heating the hem edge Hemline the edge of garment Types of hems 1 Turned up edge Most basic Sing turned double turned Usually have curved or flared bottoms 2 Faced edge 3 Enclosed edge Ex binding Hem attachments Facings Lettuce edge Created by the operator who stretched the edge as it is stitched so that it ripples attractively the edge must be stretched consistently for even ripples Used on ruffles and hems of
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