CTE 3763 Study Guide Exam 3 Underlying Fabrics Support Devices The main outer fabric from which a garment is made is called the body the fashion or the shell fabric Underlying fabrics or supporting fabrics are inside the garment lend support to the garment help maintain its shape 1 Interfacing An extra layer of supporting fabric Supplies body shape reinforcement to areas of the garment 2 Lining Lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior Covers all seam allowances makes garment more comfortable and easy to slip on extends the life and provides extra body shape and support 3 Underlining Involves lining each major piece of the garment individually Less costly than lining because it requires little additional labor Does have all seam allowances other construction details exposed on the inside 4 Interlining Applied strictly for additional warmth Included in cold weather garments such as coats jackets Includes all materials inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric the lining Support Devices Shoulder pads polyester fiberfill Sleeve headers Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs wool tailor s canvas or fiberfill Collar stays Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling May be permanent or removable Boning Seam tapes Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel Bra cups Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bust line Usually made of fiberfill or foam Findings Trim Findings all components of a garment except the body fabric play a key role in the aesthetic performance of the garment Include support materials closures thread elastic and labels Support Materials Interlinings Linings Support devices Most garments contain at least one of these Thread A strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments Selected for its color size strength elasticity colorfastness and ability to form stitches 1 Spun Thread Spun polyester most common Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns Elastic Abrasion resistant Suitable for noncritical seams 2 Corespun Thread Fine Stronger than spun threads A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Elastic Usually the BEST choice for critical seams Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating 3 Filament Thread Clear thread resembling a fishing line Monofilament Ruptures Irritates when next to the skin most common Cost effective as it blends into fabric eliminates need to match thread to fabric very strong abrasion resistant however too strong Multifilament for many fabrics Elastics fiber Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size Used to shape garments and hold them close to the body Made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another Trims decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinctiveness Ribbons Braids Laces Other narrow fabric trims Appliques Beads Sequins Linear Trims lines on surface or edges of garment Surface stitching Topstitching Edge stitching Hemstitching Fagoting Pin tucks Seam variations Welt seams Slot seams Seam edgings Piping Cording Overlock stitching Picot edging Lettuce edging Other narrow fabric trims Piping a narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment Corded piping piping with a cord in it to create a round tube Bias tape or hem tape bias cut strips of fabric Appliques Surface decorations formed by thread fabric or nonfabric materials such as grommets sequins and beads Embroidery trim formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garment Monograms usually satin stitched in the form of initials Floral Flowers and or leaves worked in thread and sometimes enhanced by the addition of beads gems or sequins Cutwork produced by making holes in fabric and surrounding the holes with embroidery Trapunto done by padding a stitched pattern on the garment surface to produce a three dimensional design Necklines Collars Sleeves Cuffs Necklines Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped Collars Component parts that surround the neck Are attached permanently or temporarily Stand Fits close to the neck Fall Turns over the stand or garment Roll line The line where the collar fall turns over the stand Style line The shape of the outer edge Lapels Designed to attach to the collar and turn back over the garment Break line Where lapels turn back Break point Point along the front edge at which the lapel begins to roll back Gorge line Where the collar and the lapel are joined Notch Triangular shape between lapel and collar formed where the gorge line ends Partial roll collars Straighter than the neckline Stand at the back but lie flat on the front Examples include Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars Same shape as the neckline Popular on children s clothes they create a youthful feel on adult garments Examples include Peter Pan collars Bertha collars and sailor collars Flat collars Stand collar Edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve This straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neck Examples include turtleneck collars mandarin collars and tie collars Gathered Circular ruffled collars Flounces A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam Tailored collars Require more careful shaping during construction May be used on jackets coats and dresses Can be the focal point Can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the break point Shawl collars Sleeves Similar to tailored collars but do not have a gorge line Designed to fit the armscye or armhole Can vary be changing how the bottom edge is finished Garment Assembly The stage where the garment is created Good design fine quality raw materials alone do not
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