FINAL EXAM REVIEW CTE 3763 Apparel Analysis Costing cid 18535 1 Ready to wear Pret A Porter MATCHING cid 18535 2 Vertical integration Manufacturer owned operated factories cid 18535 3 Independent business hired to provide production services Contractor cid 18535 4 Private Label Proprietary brands cid 18535 5 Brand Label Store brand KNOW GLOBAL TRADE TERMS cid 18535 Import the buying goods from another country cid 18535 Export the selling of goods to another country cid 18535 Trade Deficit when a country imports more goods than it exports cid 18535 Embargo prohibition of importing a product cid 18535 Tariff also known as duties are taxes paid to a government for importing Rates established by congress cid 18535 Quota limit the quantity of items that may be imported cid 18535 NAFTA North American Free Trade Agreement Policy creating a single North American market for goods originating in the United States Canada and Mexico cid 18535 EU Trading Bloc of European countries cid 18535 TFPIA Textile Fiber Identification Act Federal law requiring that all apparel sold in the United States have a label that identifies fiber contet manufacturer and country of origin Trademark A symbol word s legally registered or established by use as representing a company or product cid 18535 cid 18535 cid 18535 cid 18535 Trade Dress refers to the shape of features of the product itself that are not only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product Patent exclusive right to produce an item Counterfeit vs Knockoff Counterfeit products are reproduced to pass as a certain brand or company while Knockoffs are not exact replicas but are meant to look the same as another brand or companies product cid 18535 CMT A contractor that completes all aspects of production to manufacture K N O W cid 18535 Subcontractor Also known as a specialty contractor Completes a portion of a garnet that requires special skills equipment the garment belt making pleating covering buttons printing fagotting cid 18535 Jobber An Independent contractor hired by a manufacturer to outsource the product of entire garments or partially complete component parts cid 18535 Full Package Supplier services provided by contractors to Furnish Materials Complete cutting assembly of garments used by designers product developers retail manufacturers cid 18535 Licensing The process by which a manufacturer licensee pays a fee to an individual or company licensor for the privilege f affixing the licensor s name trademark or logo to the licensee s product cid 18535 FOB Free on board the contractor is responsible owns until the goods are loaded onto a transporting vehicle cid 18535 Landed cost total production costs plus shipping costs and duty charges cid 18535 Know the difference between phases of costing COSTING PRICING PROFIT Pre costing Preliminary costing and estimate of how much production will Production Costing How much it cost to fully produce a product down to the FIBER YARN FABRIC cost actual amount Physical features of fabric Fiber Manufactured Fibers Natural Fibers Denier a direct system the larger the the larger the fiber Tex For international use based on metric system Yarn Thread Types know characteristics of thread types 1 Spun Thread Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns 2 Corespun Thread A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Fine Stronger than spun threads Spun polyester most common o Elastic o Abrasion resistant o Suitable for noncritical seams Elastic Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating Usually the BEST choice for critical seams 3 Filament Thread limited use clear thread resembling a finishing line Monofilament most common o Ruptures o o Cost effective as it blends into fabric eliminates need to match thread to Irritates when next to the skin fabric Multifilament very strong and abrasion resistant o However too strong for many fabric Fabric Structure Knit Woven plain weave twill weave satin weave Color and applied design Dyeing add color to undyed fabrics called greige goods gray goods Dye Applications 1 Fiber Dyeing solution or dope 2 Yarn Dyed 3 Piece Dyed 4 Garment Dyeing Printing the application of design to the fabric using dyes or pigments KNOW UNDERSTAND cid 18535 Elongation the ration of the extension of a material to its length prior to cid 18535 Progressive Shrinkage A type of shrinkage in which the materials shrinks a stretching expressed as a little each time it is cleaned cid 18535 Tolerances The range of acceptable values cid 18535 Appearance Retention The ability of a fabric to stay the same color retain creases resist wrinkle snagging and pilling and withstood the heat of care processes determines whether the garment maintains its original appearance cid 18535 Dimensional Stability Relates to the ability to neither stretch nor shrink Torque or skewness fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other STANDARDS SIZE SPECIFICATIONS cid 18535 Define Size Based o garment measurements Fit Based on body measurements 5 elements Grain reflects the direction of the threads Ease is the amount of difference between the body measurements and garment Line the structural lines of the garment conform to the lines of the body Set Balance Standards A generalization of requirements for a garment Sizing Specification Must be clearly communicated on specification sheets for patternmaking and sampling Sample garment measurements must be checked against the spec sheet before a garment goes into full production Vanity sizing Size migration Grading Process of scaling the master size sample size of a garment to the range of sizes to be produced Grade rules The amounts added or subtracted from each measurement as it changes from one size to the next MATCHING cid 18535 The amount of difference between body measurements and the garment Ease cid 18535 Based on garment measurements Sizing cid 18535 Based on body measurements Fit cid 18535 Measurement from crotch level to the top of waistband Rise STITCHES Be able to identify stitch classes o 100 Single thread chain stitch o 200 Hand stitching extremely expensive if done by hand o 300 Lock stitch rely on interlocking threads uses a bobbin uses the least amount of thread flattest stitch o 400 Chain Stitch rely on interlooping threads uses a looper thread no bobbin more extensible than lockstiches easy to unravel in case garment needs alterations significantly stronger more
View Full Document
Unlocking...