CTE 3763 Exam 3 Study Guide Underlying Fabrics and Support Devices Ch 5 8 Underlying fabrics or supporting fabrics are inside the garment The main outer fabric from which a garment is made is called the body the fashion or the shell fabric Underlying Fabrics are always inside the garment lend support to the garment help maintain its shape 1 Interfacing or Interlining is an extra layer of supporting fabric Supplies body shape reinforcement to areas of the garment 2 Lining A lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior Constructed of lightweight fabric sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance Covers all seam allowances Garment is more comfortable to wear Easier to slip garment on Extends the life of garment Provides extra body shape support Less apt to wrinkle 3 Underlining Involves lining each major piece of the garment individually Less costly than lining because it requires little additional labor Does have ALL seam allowances other construction details exposed on the inside 4 Interlining Applied strictly for additional warmth Included in cold weather garments such as coats jackets Includes all materials inserted for warmth between the garment body fabric the lining Support Devices Shoulder pads o Used in tailored jackets coats dresses and blouses o Made of molded foam layers of cotton or wool wadding or polyester fiberfill Sleeve Headers or fiberfill o Folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs wool tailor s canvas o Sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve o Collar Stays Thin strips of plastic inserted into the points of collars on dress shirts to prevent curling up or wrinkling o May be permanent or removable Boning o Used in the bodice bras corsets or strapless dresses o Can be made of steel plastic or polyester rigilene Seam Tapes Bra Cups o Narrow woven strips of fabric similar to ribbon o Can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel o Often added to garments such as swimsuits and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline o Usually made of fiberfill or foam Findings and Trims Ch 8 Findings Play a key role in the aesthetic performance of a garment Aesthetic Performance of Trims and Findings Include Support Materials Closures Thread Elastic Labels Color Pattern Color Consistency Luster Opacity Hands Support materials include Interlinings Linings Support Devices for its Color Size Strength Elasticity Colorfastness Ability to form stitches o Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability Thread a strong slender form of yarn used for stitching garments Selected Thread Types know characteristics of thread types 1 Spun Thread Spun polyester most common Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns o Elastic o Abrasion resistant o Suitable for noncritical seams 2 Corespun Thread A spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Fine Stronger than spun threads Elastic Less apt to cause puckering Subject to needle heating Usually the BEST choice for critical seams 3 Filament Thread Monofilament most common limited use clear thread resembling a finishing line o Ruptures o Irritates when next to the skin o Cost effective as it blends into fabric eliminates need to match thread to fabric Multifilament very strong and abrasion resistant o However too strong for many fabric Selecting Type of Thread Location of stitching Type of garment Use if garment Care of garment Life of garment Thread Size Selection by Fabric Weight Elastics Defined by the ability to repeatedly stretch and return to its original size Used to shape garments and hold them close to the body Made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester cotton or another fiber and add distinctiveness Trims Decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment Linear Trims Lines on the surface or edges of the garment o Decorative edgings o Decorative seams Narrow Fabric Trims o Ribbons o Passementerie o Laces Surface Embellishments o Embroidery Trim formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garment Monograms Floral usually satin stitched in the form of initials Flowers and or leaves worked in thread and sometimes enhanced by the addition of beads gems or sequins Cutwork produced by making holes in fabric and surrounding the holes with embroidery Trapunto done by padding a stitched pattern on the garment surface to produce a three dimensional design o Appliques Surface decorations formed by thread fabric or nonfabric materials such as grommets sequins and beads o Screen printing application of a printed design as a form of surface embellishment Decorative Edgings o Ruffles strips of fabric gathered to add fullness attached to garment o Flounces o Smocking Other Narrow Fabric Trims Piping a narrow folded strip of fabric included in a seam that often contrasts with the color of the garment piping with a cord in it to create a round tube Corded piping Bias tape or hem tape bias cut strips of fabric Necklines Collars Sleeves and Cuffs Component Parts Necklines Frame the neck and provide an opening for the head May be finished simply with a facing ribbed band or bias binding or it may be further embellished with a collar May be round square scooped sweetheart or V shaped Collars Component parts that surround the neck are attached permanently or temporarily Partial roll collars o Straighter than the neckline o Stand at the back but lie flat on the front o Examples include Chelsea collars tailored collars and shawl collars Flat Collars adult garments collars Stand Collars o Same shape as the neckline o Popular on children s clothes they create a youthful feel on o Examples include Peter Pan collars Bertha Collars and sailor o Edges are straight in relation to the neckline curve o This straight edge causes the collar to encircle the neck o Examples includes turtleneck collars mandarin collars and tie collars Gathered and Circular Ruffled Collars o Gathered or pleated to fit the neckline seam Flounces o A greater neck curve causing the style line of the collar to fall into soft folds Cowl Collars o Are a variation of the turtleneck Tailored Collars o Require more careful shaping during construction o May be used on jackets coats and dresses o Can be the focal point o Can be changed dramatically by raising or lowering the
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