Seams and Edge Treatments The Seam line is the stitched line of the seam parallel to and always a speci fied distance from the raw edge of the fabric Seam Allowance Margin is the narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric Seam Types are influenced by Appearance Durability Comfort Ease of Alternation The ASTM has established 6 seam classes 4 major SS Superimposed LS Lapped BS Bound FS Flat As well as OS Ornmental stitching ES Edge Finishes ASTM seam identifications are written into specifications by uppercase seam class lowercase seam type SS Class Most used seam class 301SSa most common Plain seam cut edges stacked on each other ready for stitching LS Class more than 100 variations largest seam class Overlapping seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric to be sewn to Flat felled seams most common type BS Class Encasing the raw edges with a strip of fabric increased serving and use of knits that don t ravel bound seams are de gether creasing FS Class Same on both sides raw edges together and securing with a 600 class cover or zigzag stitch Edge Finshing Prevent raveling of woven fabrics Seam Performance depends on how it is stitched pressed and finished Fit Fabric Care of garment Stregth affected by type and width of seam allowance tendency to ravel stich characteristics Unraveling is caused by a broken or skipped stitch Seam finishes A Look neat B Add strength C Prevent ravel knit D Prevent rolling woven E Prevent stretching 1 Plain finish untreated and will be fully lined 2 Clean finish turned over the seam allowance and sewn 3 Pinked finish pinked cut edges 4 Bound finish inner beauty covering the raw edges with ribbon tape or bias binding 5 Overcast finish a se serged or marrowed ries of loose slanting hand stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance 6 Double stitched light weight in sheer transparent and lace As well as knits jersey and tricot The Bias Seam forms horizontal softness and is mostly found in skirts Skipped stitch Improper stitch balance Excessive seam grin Seam slippage on Rayon Edge Finishes Methods other than hems 1 Facing 2 Cut on Facings 3 Bias strip most cost efficient Hem can be called an EF edge finishing Hem Any finish at the edge of a garments Hemline Variations the Width to the Depth 1 8th of an inch to several inches hand stitched machine stitched fuzed glued leather Can be faced or enclosed Hem Terms Hem allowance the width of the unfinished hem or distance between the hemline and the hem edge Hem Edge the raw edge of the hem Hem Finish Application for neatening the hem edge Hemline the edge of the garment Three Basic Hems 1 Turned up folded up one or two times 2 Faced more expensive facings same fabric 3 Enclosed Edge banding or binding enclosing the raw edge More often then not a contrast Hem stitches Handstitched overcast Lockstitch machine blindstitch Blindstitch hemmer Closures Buttons Zippers Snap Fasteners Hooks and eyes Hook and loop tape Zippers and Buttons can be functional and decorative Parts of a zipper Types Lapped one welt completely covers the zipper Slot or Centered welts meet at center Exposed sewn to tape edge visible teeth Fly Front type of lapped most commonly used jeans Invisible sewn in such a way that it disappears Pockets Hem part of pocket opening that folds to inside finishes the opening Pocket sack bag or pouch that forms the pocket Opening unstitched section allows hand to enter the sack Waistlines Buttons and Buttonholes Terms DIAMETER width of the button EYES holes in the button LIGNES measurement 1 40 used to specify SHANK small rink of eye on the underside of the button THICKNESS button depth The continuum of button quality would place the high end button as the A 2 hole B 4 hole C Metal shank D Plastic shank Button Loops Used at garment edges as a closure and a design element Sanps Two parts a ball and a socket Hook and eye Paired fastener used to fasten garments securely and inconspicuously Hook Tape Bulky holds strong Shape a silhouette is smaller shapes put together within the garment using seams Smaller shapes Interest Achieve Fit Combinations of Fabrics Shape lets the designer Create optical illusion through line Proportion Balance Rhythm Shaping devices mold the garment to the contours of the body to achieve fit Silhouette Outline or shape of a garment
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