GEOS 212 1st Edition Lecture 15 Outline of Last Lecture LECTURE 14 OUTLINE waves surfing 5 March Review Atmospheric Circulation Model for weather prediction wind belts Review wind velocity and wave height in real world Big Bad Table for wind waves Importance of fetch duration and Fully Developed Sea Why waves rarely 50 ft Why waves never move away from shore Why do waves break Pattern of wave motion in deep water Pattern of waves along a shoreline Mechanics of surfing How calculate when a set of waves will arrive at a beach Important new term is set velocity o speed of a set of waves half of the speed of the individual wave wind speed x 0 57 wave speed 50 mph wind speed x 0 57 28 mph wave speed o But set of waves travels at half of wave speed set velocity 28 mph wave speed x 0 50 14 mph set velocity Velocity Distance Time Time Distance Velocity Time 1400 miles 14 mph 100 hours 4 days Outline of Current Lecture LECTURE 15 OUTLINE Coastal Processes 10 March Wave patterns along shore how drive longshore transport longshore currents waves parallel to shore versus at an angle These notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor s lecture GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes not as a substitute Role of Longshore Transport LT in sediment cycle Movie of longshore transport Beach river of sand o Submarine canyons seawalls jetties groins impact sand transport Global pattern of LT o LT in Ideal World from Storm Latitudes toward Equator in both hemispheres e g to South in Northern hemisphere to North in Southern hemisphere o LR in Real World mostly consistent but more complicated Problems caused by dams concrete lined channels coastal erosion need to supply sand Longshore transport along a curvy coastline and coastal straightening o Headland erosion and beach deposits Current Lecture
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