GEOS 212 1st Edition Lecture 15Outline of Last Lecture LECTURE 14 OUTLINE (waves & surfing – 5 March) - Review Atmospheric - Circulation Model for weather prediction & wind belts, - Review wind velocity, and wave height in real world - Big Bad Table for wind waves Importance of fetch, duration, and Fully Developed Sea Why wavesrarely >50 ft? Why waves never move away from shore? - Why do waves break? - Pattern of wave motion in deep water - Pattern of waves along a shoreline - Mechanics of surfing- How calculate when a set of waves will arrive at a beach- Important new term is set velocity o speed of a set of waves = half of the speed of the individual wave wind speed x 0.57 = wave speed 50 mph wind speed x 0.57 28 mph wave speed o But set of waves travels at half of wave speed (set velocity) 28 mph wave speed x 0.50 14 mph set velocity Velocity = Distance / Time Time = Distance / Velocity Time = 1400 miles / 14 mph = 100 hours = 4 days!Outline of Current Lecture: LECTURE 15 OUTLINE (Coastal Processes -- 10 March)- Wave patterns along shore & how drive longshore transport & longshore currents (waves parallel to shore versus at an angle)These notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor’s lecture. GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes, not as a substitute.- Role of Longshore Transport (LT) in sediment cycle - Movie of longshore transport:- Beach = river of sand! o Submarine canyons, seawalls, jetties, & groins: impact sand transport - Global pattern of LT o LT in Ideal World: from Storm Latitudes toward Equator, in both hemispheres (e.g., to South in Northern hemisphere; to North in Southern hemisphere) o LR in Real World: mostly consistent, but more complicated - Problems caused by dams & concrete-lined channels => coastal erosion & need to supply sand;- Longshore transport along a curvy coastline and coastal straightening o Headland erosion and beach depositsCurrent
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