GEOS 212 1st Edition Lecture 14 Outline of Last Lecture Atmosphere also transports heat with water vapor 20 of heat moved toward poles Atmosphere model explains weather High versus Low pressure weather prediction see map Atmosphere also creates wind waves low wind small waves high wind tall waves But can have waves and no wind magic of waves travel long distances Pattern of atmosphere motion today correct Pattern of wind today correct Pattern of wave height and direction correct Early explorers Outline of Current Lecture Wind Waves and Surfing LECTURE 14 OUTLINE waves surfing 5 March 2015 Review Atmospheric Circulation Model for weather prediction wind belts Review wind velocity and wave height in real world Big Bad Table for wind waves Importance of fetch duration and Fully Developed Sea Why waves rarely 50 ft Why waves never move away from shore Why do waves break Pattern of wave motion in deep water Pattern of waves along a shoreline Mechanics of surfing How calculate when a set of waves will arrive at a beach These notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor s lecture GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes not as a substitute Important new term is set velocity o speed of a set of waves half of the speed of the individual wave wind speed x 0 57 wave speed 50 mph wind speed x 0 57 28 mph wave speed o But set of waves travels at half of wave speed set velocity 28 mph wave speed x 0 50 14 mph set velocity Velocity Distance Time Time Distance Velocity Time 1400 miles 14 mph 100 hours 4 days Current Lecture
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