1Chapter 6Designing the LineLearning ObjectivesBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 2Understand Options for building and editing a line Balance a line in terms of design and costs Differentiating the line through custom color and prints Steps in the designer’s workflow from concept until the line goes into production2Introduction to the LineLine or collection —multiple garments targeted to a particular customer for a specific season •Coordinates•Separates•ItemsBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 3Designing a Line of CoordinatesGroups related to each other in color, fabric, styling, and moodCoordinated groups offer styling options with different figure types and preferences while using the same colors and fabricsBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 43Designing a Line of SeparatesGarments in the store belong to the same season but they are not coordinates“Fast fashion” stores offer knockoffs of current runway fashionsCoordination isn’t important in categories where consumers buy garments for each occasion or useBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 5Designing an Item LineItem lines run the gamut from inexpensive and inviting for impulse buyers to expensive or limited production goods for collectors (e.g Knitwear)Designers specialists with detailed knowledge of the fabrics and techniques within their categoryBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 64ThemeTrend forecasters synthesize information from around the globe into seasonal reports A theme board captures the idea visuallyBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 7The Color StoryThe line’s seasonal color palette needs enough variety to appeal to the entire range of consumer preferenceEach palette will include a few trendy colors, a core of seasonal favorites, and a few wardrobe basicsBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 85Working with the Color ForecastColors are given a color name related to one of the themes or color stories Factors to consider include: •Season*•Men’s, women’s, or children’s line *•Product category *•Price point *•Preferences related to geographic region •Preferences of target consumers Brannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 9Communicating Color SpecificationsColor management is the system of communication between the design team and manufacturing.Color specification systems identify colors according to hue, value, and chromaThe United States Bureau of Standards uses the Munsell Color SystemBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 106Communicating Color SpecificationsTwo companies — the SCOTDIC Textile Color System (54 hue families) and Pantone Matching System (6 digit notational, value+hue+chroma) —specialize in maintaining libraries and identifying each color by numeric code.Color standards guide color matching across all fabrications.Brannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 11The Fabric StoryDesign teams find trend-right fabrics by searching: •Fabric shows•Print shows•Fabric libraries (e.g. samples from mills)•Textile directories (e.g. online listing)Fabric choice- hand and drape, fabric weight (bottom, top), knowledge.In addition to fabric choice, the design team locates sources for linings and interlining, findings (=notions), and trimBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 127Customizing Color and FabricsColors, fabrics, and prints convey the company’s image to the customer as much as the clothes themselvesIncluding staple goods in the line saves money and ensures plentiful supply if the line takes off generating more than expected ordersBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 13Custom Color• Solution dyeing (textile)• Yarn dyeing (textile)• Piece dyeing (fabric)• Garment dyeingFor non-print fabrics the sample is called a lab dip. (A lab dip is required for each fabric in line).Brannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 148Custom PrintsPrints can be added to the line from 3 sources: • Mills and fabric manufacturers• Print shows• Designing prints in-houseBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 15Custom PrintsManufacturing by either rollers (engraved cylinders) or screens•Direct printing•Discharge printing•Digital printing* Prints come in “Colorways” within the line. Approval stage for print- “Strike off”Brannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 169Telling the Fabric StoryNovelty might come in the form of: •Texture (e.g. shine or deep pile)•Pattern (e.g. motif)•Performance (e.g. new fiber)Designers consider turn time — the period of time between order and shipping when the fabric is produced, dyed, and finishedIn sampling, fabrics get used to make samples of the designs in the lineBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 17The Design WorkflowDesigners often head teams with the skill assortment to create the line in-housePatternmakers and samplemakers help turn concepts into a collectionAfter the color palette is set, themes illustrated, fabrics selected, and findings, notions, and trims sourced, work on the collection beginsEdited down to the best combinationsGroup lines depend on coordination within the groups and across the groups within the line.Brannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 1810Concept to Flat SketchDesigners use flat sketches to design and style the lineIllustrates both the front view and back viewRecords decisions on structural and decorative designBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 19Working Sketch (not a flat)PatternmakingThe first step in turning flat sketches into clothes on a rack is patternmakingInterprets the sketches into flat, geometric shapes using an understanding of fabric grain and production techniquesCombines the concepts of size and fitThe starting point for turning the design concept into a pattern is the sloper Brannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 2011SamplemakingThe pattern is tested by making a sample garmentSamples often done by a samplemaker Able to diagnose and correct any problems with the patternBrannon Chapter 6 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A