1Chapter 11Chapter 11Details and TrimDetails and TrimLearning ObjectivesLearning ObjectivesStructure of design details such as collars, sleeves, pockets, and belts, Reinforcing the mood and styling of garments Centerfront line and placement and design of closures, such as buttons, zippers, or their alternatives Brannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 2Design details such as topstitching, tucks, shirring, and smocking The role of trimThe range of trims and their applications IntroductionIntroductionTrim reinforces the meaning of the garment, whether it references a past era, highlights current technology, or underlines trendsBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 3Design details and trim add personality and distinctiveness to the designDesign DetailsDesign DetailsAdd personality and panache to even the simplest garments• Collars, sleeves, pockets, and belts define and amplify the fashion message with their shape, volume, and association with trends• Closures can play a purely functional role or contribute a decorative effect• Topstitching, tucks, shirring, and smocking add dimension, decoration, and interest to fabric surfaces Brannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 4NecklinesNecklines• Jewel neckline• Scoop neckline• Bateau or boat necklineSkli•Square neckline• V-neckline• Sweetheart neckline• Cowl necklineBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 5Neckline and Neckline and Collar StylesCollar StylesA slit or keyhole adds variety to a plain necklineBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 62Collar StylesCollar Styles• Band collars• Mandarin•Turtleneck•Turtleneck• Mock turtleneck• Ring collar• Peter Pan• Portrait• Stand• ConvertibleBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 7Tailored CollarsTailored CollarsComposites incorporating the front of the shirt or jacket, which rolls back towhich rolls back to form a VV-neckline collars•Shawl collar•Middy collar•Flat band and stand collarsBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 8Sleeve StylesSleeve StylesFinished with either a facing or a bindingAll set-in sleeves derive from the one-piece fitted sleeve Other sleeve types:Other sleeve types:•Bell sleeve•Kimono sleeve•Bishop sleeve•Puff sleeve•Leg-of-mutton sleeve•Juliet sleeveBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 9Sleeve StylesSleeve StylesCommon cuffs• Shirt cuff with a placket• Rolled sleeve• French cuff• Cut-on sleeves•Raglan• Dolman and bat-wingBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 10PocketsPockets• Inseam•Slash•PatchBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 11Closures: Buttons Closures: Buttons and Buttonholesand ButtonholesButtons decorate but are also functional: buttons and buttonholes connect two layers of a garment Size equals the diameter expressed in lignesBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 123Closures: Buttons Closures: Buttons and Buttonholesand ButtonholesAlternatives to buttons combine function with decorative appealBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 13Closures: ZippersClosures: ZippersThree applications keep the zipper hidden:•Double-lap or slot•Lapped•Fly-frontSpecial zippers:•Invisible zipper•Separating zipperBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 14BeltsBeltsServe two purposes: •To adjust the fit of the garment •To add design detailFour styles: •Straight belt•Contour belt •Unstructured tie belt•Unstructured sashesBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 15Surface InterestSurface InterestTucks• Pintucks• Air tucks• Shell tucksRuching• Spaced tucks• Blind tucks• Cross tucks• Undulating tucksShirring/ RuchingSmockingBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 16Decorative Trim and Decorative Trim and Surface Surface EmbellishmentEmbellishment• Create a focal point • Accent edges and lines in the composition • Add distinctiveness and interest to an area of the design that is too plain Brannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 17EdgingsEdgingsTo emphasize an edge, reinforce it with line• Topstitching• Banding• Binding• Piping and cording• Rickrack•Fringe•Fur• FeathersBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 184Narrow TrimsNarrow TrimsNarrow trims are sewn to finished edges or within the body of a garmentRibbons include satin, grosgrain, and velvet Passamenterie •Soutache•Middy braid•Gimp braid•Fold-over braidBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 19LaceLaceA see-thorough material made by interconnecting threads to form a patternCh till•Chantilly• Cluny ace• Raschel• Eyelet Thin• Venetian laces• BattenburgBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 20Ruffles, Flounces, Ruffles, Flounces, and Cascadesand CascadesTwo basic types of ruffle are the straight ruffle and circular ruffleFlounce is a circular ruffle with fullnessA flounce applied vertically is called a cascadeBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 21Embroidery and Embroidery and AppliquéAppliquéEmbroidery consists of stitches that make a t t tt thtexture or pattern on the surface of fabricTraditional appliqué involves cutting a shape from one fabric and applying it to another with either hand or machine embroidery stitchesBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 22Beading, Sequins, Beading, Sequins, and Studsand StudsBeads come as:•Fabric yardage•Strands•Single beadsSequins come as fabric yardage, on trim bands and appliqués, in pre-strung strands, or as singles Some spot embellishments are stapled or riveted to fabricsBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 23QuiltingQuiltingThe most familiar form of quilting uses stitching to join three layers: a top fabric padding or battingfabric, padding or batting, and a bottom fabricIn trapunto quilting, the background isn’t quiltedBrannon Chapter 11 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 245Chapter SummaryChapter SummaryThe size and type of the collar, the shape and length of