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1Chapter 10Chapter 10ShapingShaping FashionLearning ObjectivesLearning ObjectivesEvolution of garment styling through the range of cut-and-sew garments Structure and style variations of cut-in-one dressesSeams and darts as ways to shape flatBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 2Seams and darts as ways to shape flat fabric into a hollow form resting on the armature of the body Styling and positions of waistline seamsSeparates — jackets, skirts, pants — as families linked by characteristics of the patternmaking and structure IntroductionIntroductionFabric as a structural material requires an armature — the body The body is complex because: •The form is symmetrical from the front and•The form is symmetrical from the front and asymmetrical from the side•Circumference measurements vary; the waist is narrower than the shoulders, bust or chest, and hips•Circumference measurements vary in contourBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 3Fabric and Body Fabric and Body ShapeShapeHow can fabric be made to take the shape of the body? What body structures support the garment and where does it hang free?garment, and where does it hang free? Where will the garment fit tight and where loose? Which parts of the body will be covered and which revealed? Brannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 4Strategy 1: Avoid Strategy 1: Avoid Cutting the Fabric Cutting the Fabric and Wrapand WrapAncient Egyptians working with linen kept the fabricwith linen kept the fabric intact with few seams and little sewingThe same strategy is used in traditional societies and often imitated in fashionBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 5Strategy 2: Cut Strategy 2: Cut Fabric into Shaped Fabric into Shaped Pieces and Pieces and ReassembleReassembleStrategy changes from keeping fabric intact to cutting fabric into pieces and reassembling them into garmentsBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 62The CutThe Cut--inin--One One DressDressThe shift, sheath, and princess-line silhouettes are cut-in-one dresses —those lacking a waistline seamBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 7The Shift DressThe Shift DressShift dress circumference allows the broadest part of the body to fit insideThe triangle runs from edge to edge and the stitching line becomes a seamA dart is a removal of a triangle of fabric to fit a curveBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 8The Shift DressThe Shift DressPatternmakers create a sloperMti ttl tiMost important location marks on the sloper are the centerfront and centerbackGraduated flare below the waist turns the shift into an A-line dressBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 9The Sheath DressThe Sheath DressMolds to the body shapePatternmakers distribute the subtracted inchesthe subtracted inches around the body at the two side seams and in double-pointed darts front and backBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 10The PrincessThe Princess--Line Line DressDressShifts the bust dart from the side seam to the shoulder then links theshoulder then links the shoulder and waistline darts into vertical seams that follow the contour of the body’s curvesIn dressmaking terms, a panel is called a goreBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 11The PrincessThe Princess--Line Line DressDressInfinite styling options • Change the size of panels• Increase the flare on each panel• Insert extra godets• Create a coat-dress• Add collar and sleeves• Use pockets, trim, and buttonsBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 123WaistlineWaistline--Seam Seam DressesDressesAdding a waistline seam increases the fitting and styling options while giving the wearer greater mobilityThe shoulder supports the bodice, and the waistline supports the skirt —the bodice and skirt move more independentlyBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 13The Shirtwaist The Shirtwaist DressDressOpportunity to pair the fitted or semi-fitted top with skirts ranging from straight to fullThe basic sloper for a shirtwaist dress has a waistline seam with darts above and below in the front and backBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 14Brannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 15The Shirtwaist The Shirtwaist DressDressDart equivalent or a traditional dartThe classic shirtwaist dress often had a yokeBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 16Drop Waist and Drop Waist and Empire WaistEmpire WaistIgnoring the natural waist creates new silhouettes Empire waist raises the•Empire waist raises the horizontal seam from the natural waist to just below the bustline• Drop waist lowers the seam to a point on the hips Brannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 17TwoTwo--Piece Piece EnsemblesEnsemblesThe drop-waist style points the way to styling two-piece ensembles: a top or jacket that ends below the waist combined with a skirtDesigner’s task is to find the best combination of top and bottom and complete the look with design detailsBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 184Jacket StylesJacket StylesPart of a two-piece ensemble meant to be worn closed without a blouse (dress maker suit).blouse (dress maker suit).Part of a three-piece ensemble worn as an outer layer over other garments .Cardigan-style jacket with a center front opening and no collar.Brannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 19Jacket StylesJacket StylesOne row of buttons makes a single-breasted jacket; two rows make a double-breasted jacketbreasted jacketBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 20Skirt StylesSkirt Styles4 silhouette categories •Straight•Flare• Draped and pegged• PleatedBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 21Skirt StylesSkirt StylesDifferent hem lengthsStraight skirts can use gathers or pleats to control waistline fullnessBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 22Skirt StylesSkirt StylesGore skirt, trumpet skirtDrapedandpegged skirtsDraped-and-pegged skirtsBrannon Chapter 10 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 23Skirt StylesSkirt


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TTU ADM 1301 - Shaping Fashion

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