CTE4443 Exam 2 Study Guide terms defined Durability Analysis is based on the end use expected of the fabric Durability Most often related to serviceability wear Wear Fabric deterioration which occurs during breaking cutting or removal of fibers Types of durability testing Friction testing abrasion testing Friction Describes the resistance to relative motion between two objects in physical contact with each other Less friction Smooth materials of the same chemical compound Rough materials Have more surface area in contact with each other so more force is required to have them move against each other Friction testing Usually involves testing for snagging pilling abrasion Friction testing Performance is assessed as a measure of loss of some part of the material or a change in appearance Could weigh the fabric Pilling When fibers ends or other fiber debris are broken away from surface and becomes entangled with fibers that are still attached to material Example acrylic is one of the worst Pilling Fiber ends work to the surface become abraded break off and entangle with other fibers Especially is its a filament fiber because its long Does fall off just hangs to other fibers Pilling propensity The extent and ease of pilling Pilling resistance Resistance to formation of pills on a textile surface Pilling testing Evaluates fabric s resistance to abrasion Random tumble pilling tester Except for dimensional change you always want the highest rating possible 5 being the highest Manufactured fibers tend to pill more Evaluated by using a comparison between the specimen and a 5 point photographic rating scale 5 no pilling 1 very severe pilling Most apparel products accept a 3 5 rating Abrasion testing Breakdown occurs as crack appear on the fibers Abrasion Damage caused to a fabric as a result of rubbing against a surface or other material Abrasion The extent depends on the source using ASTM testing 3 types of abrasion Flat abrasion flex abrasion edge abrasion Flat abrasion Flat object is rubbed against a flat material we use flat abrasion Flex abrasion The material is bent or flexed during rubbing Edge abrasion Material is folded back on itself and rubbed as in case of shirt cuffs Evaluating for failure End point visual change End point Counting of cycles until fabric ruptures 2 or more yarns have broken or a hole appears Visual change Change in luster color or pile Evaluating for failure Specification sheet may not have a spec Requirement generally accepted level for passing is 700 for top weight and 1 000 for bottom weight Some retailers Have in house testing for their products JC Penney Have quality assurance teams throughout the world to inspect their exclusive brand products before they are shipped to their stores and warehouses Why should a retailer have independent testing The retailer would provide products to be tested but they wouldn t be what were manufactured They would pass the test but the actual products would be recalled The sourcing team Finds the right supplies General care information Most retailers however select a company to test products This is usually done at several stages before the product leaves the manufacturer and until it is on the store shelf Testing Objectives Ensure compliance of regulatory or industry standards meet expectations of consumers verify that materials are correct quality same as originally ordered and suitable for a particular product Stages of testing Performed in a laboratory using specialized equipment Some retailers establish their own internal performance standards as a tool to provide merchandise acceptable to their customers that may be more stringent than the standardized testing Voluntary testing Can be less stringent Legal testing More stringent Abrasion specifications Your specification sheet may not have a specification requirement Snagging Of fibers or yarns often occurs as fabrics come in contact with rough surfaces or undergo the rubbing process Snagging Even though spun and filament yarns are both prone to snagging filament yarns usually do not break and fall off as easily as spun yarns Snagging The yarns tend to stay in the fabric but protrude from the surface It will run Don t ever cut a snag because Snagging Causes the pilling because it raises the yarn from the surface Fabrics with long floats Tend to snag more than other types of structures High twist spun yarns Really durable Knit fabrics Particularly prone to snagging Loosely constructed fabrics Snag easily Example used to cover a window keep out some light but not all Strength One of the most common reasons named for testing textiles Snagging Strength and resistance to deformation or breakage caused by application of a force Combustion A chemical process in which oxidation produces heat energy Types of combustion Flaming combustion spontaneous combustion flameless combustion smoldering Flameless combustion Could be an issue with textiles By products of combustion Smoke and molten polymer compounds Smoke Primary cause of deaths with combustion toxic gas carbon monoxide CO is the most toxic others include CO2 HS Molten polymer compounds Melting and dripping Limiting oxygen index The amount of oxygen required supporting the combustion of a fiber Self extinguish Fibers with limiting oxygen index about 21 self extinguish Cellulosic s Limiting oxygen index of 17 20 Wool Limiting oxygen index of 25 2 Manufactured Limiting oxygen index of 18 2 20 6 Wool Difficult to ignite have to force it to burn and will usually self extinguish Fire triangle As defined by the National Fire Protection Association In order for there to be a fire three elements must be present oxygen fuel H2O Fuel Everything in this room Flame resistance The property of a material whereby flaming combustion is prevented terminated or inhibited following application of a source of ignition Flame retardant finishes Work by blocking one let of the fire triangle usually blocking the oxygen Fireproof Asbestos Noncombustible Glass Flame resistant aramid wool modacrylic vinyon saran other high performance fibers Flammable Cellulosics natural and manufactured acrylic nylon polyester olefin Flammable fabrics act Passed in 1953 Banned the use and sale of highly flammable materials for clothing Amended in 1967 Included carpets draperies bedding and upholstery Five new standards have been passed since the original 1967 amendment The standards are published Clothing Must meet basic flammability requirements as determined by a