CTE 4443 TEST 1 REVIEW Textile Quality assurance The process of designing producing evaluating and assessing products to determine that they meet the desired equity level for target market AKA quality control post production approach testing after the product is made Textile federal production identification act Quality perspectives Holistic perspective components that contribute to quality Product perspective represented by a total of a set of precise and measureable characteristics or components of a finished product Producer perspective consistent with specifications and standards should produce the greatest income and profit for the company Customer perspective customer could be the buyer from the manufacturing company or the final consumer constantly changing The product may be tested in original condition or undergo laundry abrasion etc before or after testing Textile Testing Standard Testing conditions 70 20 F 21 10 C 65 2 RH relative humidity Purposes for testing Assessment of product performance Research and development Quality control Meet government regulations Comparative testing Analyze product failure Who does the testing Suppliers the company that supplies the product to the retailer In house the company that produces the product Independent or contract a separate business organization that specifically tests materials and products for other companies The country of origin should be where the last place it was manufactured Testing organizations AATCC chemical properties of textiles ASTM physical mechanical properties ISO international organization for standardization coordinates efforts from different countries to develop standard test methods internationally ANSI American national standards institute ASQ American society of quality work to improve quality of manufactured goods services and related factors AAFA American apparel and footwear association national trade association representing apparel footwear sewn products companies and their suppliers Performance specifications Test method name and number Characteristics what you re testing for Ex breaking strength dimensional change Requirements expected performance level Certification requirements 1 FTC regulates labeling etc 2 consumer product safety commission CPSC oversees safety of consumer products 3 intertek harmful substances including the restricted substances list Requirements 1 any US importer must have CPSC approved 3rd party independent testing company that has no commercial relationship with the importers test report covering all mandatory standards as of Feb 8th 2013 CPSIA consumer product safety improvement act If there s a foreign manufacturer they will certify that the products meet the requirements Must have children s product certificate Fabric characteristics Characteristic how various components are combined to create a fabric ex fabric structure yarn structure fabric count weight thickness etc Thickness measurements 1 1000 of an inch Thin 0 008 Medium 0 009 0 0180 Thick 0 019 Weight mass per unit area ounces sq yd Thickness affects Thermal comfort Flexibility Drape Bulk Fabric weight Weight affects Cover Durability Comfort Cost Light weight 4 oz yd2 Medium weight 4 7 oz yd2 Heavy weight 7 oz yd2 Woven fabrics Warp yarn in parallel direction warp goes parallel with the selvage Filing weft yarns in horizontal direction Fabric count total number of warp filing yarns in a sq inch of fabric Grain intersection of warp and filling yarns in a woven fabric should be a 90 degree right angle Bias 45 degree angle across a woven fabric Twill weave warp and filling yarns interlaced so that a diagonal is formed floats are formed by the yarns on surface Angle durability yarn classification The steeper the twill angle the more durable the fabric single group of filament or staple fibers twisted together ply twisting together 2 or more single yarns cord yarns twisting together 2 or more ply yarns Ex ropes Yarn twist Higher twist stronger more firm smaller in diameter smoother resilient resistant to snagging and abrasion Ex crepe yarns so high they being to kink and creating unsmooth surface