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apparel interior furnishings industrial products
three industries supported by textiles industry
Global Textile Complex
shows how fibers move from farm/lab to final consumer
A company that owns machinery to produce fabric is a: a. fiber manufacturer b. jobber c. converter d. mill
d. mill
apparel accounts for how much of the textile industry?
35%
interior furnishings accounts for how much of the textile industry?
35%
industrial products accounts for how much of the textiles industry?
30%
What is a fiber?
small hairlike part of fabric
what are three ways to produce fibers?
natural manufactured mixed
What is a yarn?
Yarn is created by twisting/combining more than 1 fiber or filament.
What is Fabric?
It is produced by interlacing or inter-looping yarns.
what does dyeing do?
imparts solid color to textiles
what does printing do?
imparts design to textiles
what is finishing?
additional treatments for fabric
what is put up?
fabric packaging
how long are "shorts"?
shorter than 40 yards
how long are remnants?
1-10 yards
how are pound goods sold? why?
by the pound; can't sell by the yard- less than 1 yd in length
three primary sources of fibers
mills converters importer
what does a converter do?
buys griege goods to have dyed/ finished
two kinds of importers
direct import mill
what is the difference between a direct importer and an import mill?
direct buys foreign fabric/products; import mill makes yarn/products to export
three secondary sources of textiles
jobbers retail stores overseas agents
what do jobbers do?
buy from mills, converters, and garment manufacturers
retail stores sell to:
home sewers
three parts of the domestic textile industry
production companies non-production textile exports
how much of domestic apparel/ fabrics imported do textile imports account for?
a. 30% b. 50% c. 40% d. 60%
why import?
cheap labor superior products
what is the difference between a private label and an exclusive brand?
a private label is specifically manufactured for/ sold exclusively by a retailer; an exclusive brand is a national brand distributed by one retailer
what are possible environmental concerns in textile production?
air/water pollution disposal of waste products water pollution due to laundering
what are standards of fair trade production?
produced without labor exploitation using eco-friendly practices producers receive fair prices
produced without labor exploitation using eco-friendly practices producers receive fair prices two major international groups related to fair trade are:
FLO (Fair Trade Labeling and Organization) IFAT (International Federation Alternative Trade)
what are the two fiber sources?
natural and manufactured
what are two natural fiber sources?
plants/ animals
which one of the following uses a solid material in fiber production?
dry spinning wet spinning melt spinning
dry spinning
polymer solution+ solvent + warm air
wet spinning
polymer solution+ liquide solution
fibers created by melt spinning
glass, nylon, polyester, olefin, saran and sulfar 
fibers done by dry spinning
acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, spandex (major method)
fibers done by wet spinning
acrylic, lyocell, rayon, spandex 
what is crimp?
bends/twists of a fiber
what are the two ways to identify fiber shape?
longitudinal cross-section
what are epitropic fibers?
conduct electricity well
what are the two types of manufactured fibers?
regenerated synthetic
what is a commodity fiber?
no identification of source
what is the cheapest way to purchase fibers?
commodity fibers
what is a controlled trademark?
enables maker to control selling/ use of fiber
what is another word for spinning solution?
dope/ melt
what is extrusion?
forcing dope through a spinneret
what are the five ways to modify a fiber?
size/shape molecular structure add other compounds modified spinning process polymer modification
cellulose acetate substance
acetate
is acetate regenerated or synthetic?
is acetate regenerated or synthetic? regenerated
what are favorable qualities of acetate?
excellent drape luxurious hand mildew/moth resistant cheap production
what are unfavorable qualities of acetate?
poor strength poor elasticity poor abrasion resistance fume fading
what is acetate usually used for?
linings lingerie graduation gowns ribbons cigarette filters
Celanese, Estron, Chromspun
trademarks of acetate
chemical structure of acetate
purified wood pulp+ acetic acid
what is the difference between acetate and triacetate?
the amount of acetic acid used in spinning solution
true or false: acetate is wet spun?
false; it's dry spun
what is the solvent of acetate?
acetone
acrylic contains what percentage of acrylonitrile units?
85%
favorable properties of acrylic
lightweight good drape resilient elaticity
unfavorable traits of acrylic
less strength when wet hydrophobic
Creslan, Dralon, Silpalon
acrylic
end uses of acrylic
sweaters blankets carpeting outdoor products
what are the two types of nylon?
nylon 6 nylon 6/6
what is the molecular composition of nylon 6?
caprolactam
what is the molecular composition of nylon 6/6?
hexamthylenediamine adipic acid
Production of Nylon
melt spun, cold drawn 
true or false: nylon is the second most manufactured fiber in the U.S.
TRUE
favorable properties of nylon
lightweight excellent abrasion resistance strong
unfavorable traits of nylon
hydrophobic
end uses of nylon
can be used in all 3 industries supported by textiles industry
Anso Antron Supplex TACTEL
nylon
what is the most commonly modified fiber?
nylon
what is a hydroscopic fiber?
absorbs/ retains moisture
favorable properties of olefin
lightweight strong abrasion resistant can be blended with other fibers well
unfavorable traits of olefin
low melting point not many practical apparel applications
end uses of olefin
sports/ recreation apparel
Herculon, Spectra
olefin
PLA
Polylactic ACid
where does PLA come from?
natural sugars
favorable traits of PLA
resilient biodegradable
What are end uses for PLA?
bedding
what does MVTR stand for?
moisture vapor transport rate
Thinsulate
olefin (produced by 3m)
what is the molecular composition of polyester?
aromatic carboxylic acid
what is the number one textile in U.S. production?
polyester
favorable traits of polyester
medium weight good strength abrasion resistant
unfavorable traits of polyester
hydrophobic
end uses of polyester
weaves/ knits in apparel fiberfill tire cording medical softgoods tents artificial veins
Dacron, COOLMAX, Polargard
polyester
production of polyester
melt spun, hot drawn
what was the first manufactured fiber?
rayon
viscose solution
wood pulp/cotton linters+ caustic soda
favorable traits of rayon
medium weight strong abrasion resistant good heat conductor smooth hand good drape
unfavorable traits of rayon
poor elasticity weak wet weaker than HWM rayon progressive shrinking
HWM is...
High wet modulus
HWM viscose solution
wood pulp/ cotton linters+ sodium hydroxide
Bemberg Lenzing Viscose
rayon
rayon production
wet spinning process
what is the difference between HWM and regular rayon?
HWM is rounder in shape and typically delustered
strongest cellulose fiber
lyocell
unfavorable traits of lyocell
hydrophobic poor thermal retention
Tencel
Lyocell
SOYSILK
Azlon
traits of Azlon
soft, renewable, weak
elastomeric
able to stretch and snap back like natural rubber
favorable traits of spandex
lightweight strong
unfavorable traits of spandex
expensive Grin-through
molecular compostition of spandex
polyurethane
- Lyrca. XFIT Lycra - Glospan - Dorlastan - Creora
spandex
favorable properties of microfibers
soft hand fluid drape good wicking
unfavorable traits of microfibers
more expensive
MicroSafe
acetate microfiber
Fortrel MicroSpun
polyester microfiber
MicroModal
rayon microfiber
favorable traits of glass
strong stiff sunproof flameproof
unfavorable traits of glass
poor elasticity poor drape poor hand hydrophobic
Fiberglass PPG
glass
favorable traits of metallic
reduces static
Lurex
metallic
uses for Aramid
heat protective clothing cables tires combat helmets protective vests
Kevlar Nomex
Aramid
true or false: Novoloid is produced in the U.S.
FALSE
uses for novoloid
fire fighter apparel liners in aircraft vessels
two sources of rubber
natural synthetic
favorable traits of Saran
self-extinguishing
Saranex
Saran
true or false: flax is hydrophilic
TRUE
what does Abaca come from?
member of banana tree
sericin
gum covering raw silk
sericulture
production of silk
favorable traits of silk
excellent drape/hand hydrophillic lustrous
unfavorable traits of silk
only fair resiliency poor abrasion resistance weaker when wet
Tussah
silk from wild silk worms
spun silk
several fibers spun into narrow threads from broken coccoons
what is characteristic of silk dupioni?
"slubs" along length from changing cocoons
nodes
joints along the length of bast fibers
tow
short flax fibers
line
long flax fibers
where does Pina come from?
pineapple leaves
what is the difference in diet between cultivated silkworms/ wild worms?
cultivated eats mulberry; wild eats oak
fibroin
protein that makes silk
favorable traits of spider silk
STRONG ELASTIC
uses for spider silk
artificial veins/ capilllaries
when is shearing done?
spring
three parts of wool fiber
medulla cortex cuticle
pulled wool
comes from carcasses
kinds of wool
pulled recycled lamb's virgin
favorable traits of wool
resilient excellent hand drape low static warm absorbs moisture slowly w/o feeling damp
unfavorable traits of wool
less strength when wet poor luster high shrink rate pilling

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