CHAPTER 13 UNIQUE FABRICATIONS AND INNOVATIONS Fabrics with Special Features Three categories 1 Moisture transport 2 Waterproofing and breathability 3 Thermal insulation These all relate to moisture management performance 1 Moisture transport textile with ability to move moisture away from the skin Comfort Cooling to keep cool in hot weather fabric must induce evaporation Hollow core fibers trap heat and channel moisture away from the skin synthetics cid 127 Wool is only natural fiber with hollow core Table 13 1 Fiber Innovations cid 127 Wicking hydrophobic manufactured fibers capable of transporting moisture Two Sided Fabric Systems Push Pull effect fabric made with different fibers on each side Remove moisture away from the skin Evaporated on outer surface of the fabric Side closest to skin hydrophobic side closest to environment hydrophilic 2 Waterproof Breathable Fabrics Breathability ability to transport moisture from inside out and air from the outside inward EX Poromeric Structure cid 127 Membrane layer in construction of breathable yet completely waterproof fabrics cid 127 Waterproof does not guarantee a completely waterproof garment Leakage through seams What s the difference between waterproof and water resistance Principles of Fabric Garment Insulation insulation is dependent on the ability of the fabrics cid 127 Waterproof is permanent because of the laminate cid 127 Waterproof water sits on the outside cid 127 Water resistant water seeps in top layers Table 13 2 Effect of Temperature and Humidity Temperature humidity gradient cid 127 Moves warm moist air to outside of clothing 3 Thermal Insulation preventing loss of body heat Dead air still air could be a perfect insulator Fibers that trap packets of warm air is good Fabrics with poor cover allowing cold air in is bad cid 127 Wetness conducts heat so perspiration increases heat loss Hydrophobic fibers allow for wicking Resilience textile s ability to not mat or become thin aids in insulation Batting cotton or polyester Special Insulation Materials cid 127 Outerwear Fabrics Thermolite Polartec Battings Thinsulate and Primaloft Electrotextile smart fabrics that have increased capabilities Sense Respond Adjust to stimuli Solar cells Batteries Flexible electronic circuitry cid 127 Medical monitoring cid 127 Gives off heat in solid state Absorbs heat in liquid state Phase Change Materials PCM substance that alternates between being a solid and a liquid cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 Industrial Fabrics engineered to meet special performance requirements Categorized according to their end use Finished Product ex seat upholstery Consumed in Process ex filters or buffing wheels Combines with Other Materials ex hoses rubber belting Textiles in a car Carpeting Seat belts Seat upholstery Airbags Tires Filters Nonwoven batting materials cid 127 Muffler wrap Insulation Sound proofing Table 13 3 Drainage and filtration Stabilization reinforcement Erosion Control Protection cid 127 Moisture barriers cid 127 Mesh in hernia repairs Heart valves vessels Specialty Fibers Cordura nylon Invista TM High tenacity nylon Tear and abrasion resistance Luggage and outerwear Heat protective clothing Fire resistant fabrics Bulletproof fabrics Protective garments Thermal resistance Firefighters Resistance to Penetration Chemical and bio organisms Nano filtration cid 127 Geotextiles textiles used in construction and civil engineering applications Biotechnology implementation of textiles within the body to help it heal Regenerated tendons and other connective tissue Kevlar and Nomex aramid fibers DuPont TM Spectra fiber is pound for pound 15 times stronger than steel more durable than polyester and has a specific strength that is up to 40 greater than that of aramid fiber Leather skin of an animal bird or reptile Properties excellent air and water vapor permeable textile Split Leather thicker hides cut into thinner layers cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 cid 127 Full grain leather that hasn t been split Suede Leather generally made from split leather often cowhide Tanning chemical finish to make skin pliable water and rot resistant cid 127 Other processes bleach dye emboss print glaze etc Top grain leather is the highest quality Can be suede brushed Requires special care leather cleaning method Patent Leather high gloss durable leather made by applying successive coats of polyurethane Reconstituted Leather ground leather pieces bound together with urethane Suede skin is sanded on flesh side generally or one side of a split Nubuck grain sueded leather sanded on the grain side produces a velvety hand Fur skin of an animal with the fiber or hair attached cid 127 Quality affected by the age health and season when the animal was killed Processing fur Dyeing improves natural color cid 127 Other processes Pluck and shear Clipped cid 127 Grooved Adding dimensional qualities cid 127 Marketing International Fur Trade Federation IFTF Fur Information Council of America FICA Fur Products Labeling act 1952 amended in 1998 Name of the animal that produced the fur Country of origin of the fur of garment If fur color is natural or from dye If the garment contains fur from scrap parts If the fur has been previously used CHAPTER 12 CARE AND RENOVATION OF TEXTILES Color Problems Tendering destruction of fabric due to reaction of dye and fiber caused by heat light atmospheric contamination etc Colorfastness related to chemistry of fibers dyes and pigments penetration and fixation Bleeding loss of color in water or other solutions may color other fabrics present Fading color loss due to perspiration gas fumes sunlight etc dyes degraded cid 127 Migration color movement to adjacent areas or fabrics Poor colorfastness on red thread Crocking color transfer to another fabric or skin from rubbing together Frosting colored portion of fabric lost by abrasion usually due to