DM120 Lecture 13 Outline of Last Lecture I Textile printing Outline of Current Lecture II Textile finishing part I A Classification of finishes III Pretreatment process IV Resins V Calendaring Current Lecture Textile Finishing Part I Classification of finishes 1 Permanent finishes chemical change in fiber structure and do not change throughout the life of a fabric 2 Durable finishes last throughout the life of the article but become diminished after each cleaning 3 Semi durable last through several launderings or dry cleanings can be renewable 4 Temporary removed or substantially diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned Pretreatment process Cleaning operations to remove soil and additives from weaving or knitting Soil dirt soil Additives warp stitches sizing agents oils waxes lubricants 1 Boil off cleaning cotton cotton blend silk and manufactured fiber fabrics 2 Scour scouring cleaning woolens and worsteds both are similar to ordinary launderings 3 Desizing enzyme solutions dissolve warp yarn starches cotton fabrics 4 Solvent scouring dry cleaning to remove lubricating and softening oils for knit fabrics These notes represent a detailed interpretation of the professor s lecture GradeBuddy is best used as a supplement to your own notes not as a substitute 5 Carbonizing removing leaf and grass particles from woolen and worsted fabrics 6 Singeing burning off projecting fibers or filament splinters 7 Bleaching fabrics may need bleach because natural fabrics are not white 8 Optical brightness substance that absorbs ultraviolet light and emits blue Resins Chemicals applied as wet finishes Add stiffness to fabrics Retain shape Resist shrinkage in laundering Less moisture absorbent Reduce abrasion resistance breaking strength Finishes Aesthetic finishes change in the appearance drapability and hand of fabrics Functional finishes improve performance properties of fabrics Aesthetic finishes Calendaring process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed and under high pressure to flatten fabric Calendaring 1 Simple calendaring woven flat such as broad cloth chino and sheeting Problem over calendaring excessive pressure excellent luster seriously weakened fabrics quality control issue 2 Glazed calendaring produces high sheen polished cotton and chintz semidurable 3 Cire calendaring produces highly lusterous wet look on fabric cotton rayon polyester nylon blends durable 4 Embossed calendaring produces a 3D design could be similar to jacquard dobby woven but different in fabric construction durable permanent 5 Moire calendaring produces a wood grain design temporary durable 6 Schreiner calendaring produces a low soft key luster as distinct from the high glaze of the glazing calendar or the luster shine of the simple calendar temporary durable Aesthetic finishing Fragrances can eliminate odors or gradually release fragrances Fulling finish for smoother more compact wool fabrics permanent Mercerization improves dye affinity and luster in cotton fabrics Napping sueding shearing softening stiffening LOOK UP Stone washing makes garments softer and look worn and faded Acid washing bleaching process that actually no acid is used for Cellulose enzyme to weaken cellulosic fiber