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AM 101: Fashion Industries Test 2
Textile Converters |
•Focus on aesthetic finishes
•Buy greige goods from mills
•Dye Fabrics
•Print or finish fabrics
•Most located in NYC
•Experts in color forecasting and consumer preferences |
Weaving |
interlacing two or more sets of yarns at right angles
performance characteristics depend on the number of
yarns in a given space and on the manner in which the yarns are interlaced |
Jobber |
•Buy from textile mills, converters, apparel manufacturers
•Sell to smaller manufacturers, retailers, (fabric stores)
•Buy mill overruns
•*Rimmon Imported Fabrics |
Textile Trade Show |
Premiere Vision in France
•Show newest fabrics
•Fabrics are one year ahead, ex march show displaying Spring/Summer fabrics
•Designers get inspiration from textiles |
Technology in textiles |
Laser seam taping, shuttleless looms, digital textile printing |
Textile Designs |
Computer aided design allows designers to experiment with colors and fabric construction |
Textile Color |
dyeing
printing |
Textile Finishes |
Napping
Embossing |
Leathers |
Highly specialized
Decide on color/texture 8-16 months ahead of time |
Samuel Parker |
invented split hide machine - 1809 |
Types of Leather |
.Cattle-Garments, car upholstery, handbags
.Sheep/Lamb- Shoes, Jackets
.Goat- gloves
.Euqine- horsehide
.Buffalo- shoes, luggage, handbags
.Pig/Hog- fancy leather goods
.Exotic- alligator, ostrich, python |
Tanning |
makes pelts workable
preserves the pelts |
Chrome Tanning |
Used on 2/3 of all leather in US
Blue Grey color
Washable/gentle sponging |
Vegetable Tanning |
.Tanning acid - bark, wood, or nuts
.Used on cow, steer, horse and buffalo hides - heavy, stiff
.Months to process - labor intensive |
Oil Tanning |
.Codfish oil
.Soft and pliable leather - chamois, doeskin, buckskin |
Fur |
• Prehistoric - used for warmth, shelter, clothing
• Middle ages - symbolic for wealth and status
• Valued commodity for trading - early America
• Mink is favorite fur among designers
• Sport/ commodity fur - raccoon, fox, coyote, muskrat
• Vintage trend - Persian lamb |
Fur Manufacturing |
• Small, independent shops
• Skilled - each step by hand to work with pelt - no uniform shape |
John Jacob Astor |
first to become millionaire in the beaver trade |
Animal Rights |
.Peta protests
.Fur farms cant remove animals from wild
.Humane mink farms |
Faux Fur |
Manufactured, fake fur |
Fur Production |
1. trappers, farmers, and ranchers who produce the pelts and sell at auctions
2. fur-processing companies
3. manufacturers of fur products |
Steps of manufacturing |
. Design sketch
. Paper pattern made of garment
. Canvas pattern
. Skins cut to exhibit fur to best advantage and minimize waste
. Skins sewn together
. Skins wetted and stapled to board to dry, sets them permanently
. Garment sections are sewn together
. Garment lined and finished
. Garment inspected |
Letting Out |
Small skins, like mink, are let out to make garment
Skins are cut and sewn back together with others to make larger skin |
Primary Level |
Raw materials of fashion |
Secondary Level |
Manufacturers, finished goods |
Retail Level |
Stores, distribution |
Auxiliary Level |
Advertising, Marketing |
Franchise |
. Contract that gives an individual right to own a business while benefitting from expertise and reputation of an established firm
. Responsible for 1/8 jobs in US
. Ex. Lululemon |
Licensing |
. Firms given permission to produce and market merchandise in the name of licensor for time period
. Receives 7-14% of wholesale price
. Ex. Patent of Crocs |
Trademark |
. Assures quality of fiber
. Federally registered
. Renewed |
Natural Fiber |
Cellulose
Cotton, Flax, Wool |
Manufactured Fiber |
Man-made, synthetic
Chemically produced
Polyester, Nylon, Rayon |
Spinerette |
Manufactures fibers |
Cellulosic Fibers |
Found in natural fibers of plants |
End Uses of Textiles |
36% Apparel
Industrial
Home Goods |