AM 101: Fashion Industries Test 2
35 Cards in this Set
| Front | Back |
|---|---|
|
Textile Converters
|
•Focus on aesthetic finishes
•Buy greige goods from mills
•Dye Fabrics
•Print or finish fabrics
•Most located in NYC
•Experts in color forecasting and consumer preferences
|
|
Weaving
|
interlacing two or more sets of yarns at right angles
performance characteristics depend on the number of
yarns in a given space and on the manner in which the yarns are interlaced
|
|
Jobber
|
•Buy from textile mills, converters, apparel manufacturers
•Sell to smaller manufacturers, retailers, (fabric stores)
•Buy mill overruns
•*Rimmon Imported Fabrics
|
|
Textile Trade Show
|
Premiere Vision in France
•Show newest fabrics
•Fabrics are one year ahead, ex march show displaying Spring/Summer fabrics
•Designers get inspiration from textiles
|
|
Technology in textiles
|
Laser seam taping, shuttleless looms, digital textile printing
|
|
Textile Designs
|
Computer aided design allows designers to experiment with colors and fabric construction
|
|
Textile Color
|
dyeing
printing
|
|
Textile Finishes
|
Napping
Embossing
|
|
Leathers
|
Highly specialized
Decide on color/texture 8-16 months ahead of time
|
|
Samuel Parker
|
invented split hide machine - 1809
|
|
Types of Leather
|
.Cattle-Garments, car upholstery, handbags
.Sheep/Lamb- Shoes, Jackets
.Goat- gloves
.Euqine- horsehide
.Buffalo- shoes, luggage, handbags
.Pig/Hog- fancy leather goods
.Exotic- alligator, ostrich, python
|
|
Tanning
|
makes pelts workable
preserves the pelts
|
|
Chrome Tanning
|
Used on 2/3 of all leather in US
Blue Grey color
Washable/gentle sponging
|
|
Vegetable Tanning
|
.Tanning acid - bark, wood, or nuts
.Used on cow, steer, horse and buffalo hides - heavy, stiff
.Months to process - labor intensive
|
|
Oil Tanning
|
.Codfish oil
.Soft and pliable leather - chamois, doeskin, buckskin
|
|
Fur
|
• Prehistoric - used for warmth, shelter, clothing
• Middle ages - symbolic for wealth and status
• Valued commodity for trading - early America
• Mink is favorite fur among designers
• Sport/ commodity fur - raccoon, fox, coyote, muskrat
• Vintage trend - Persian lamb
|
|
Fur Manufacturing
|
• Small, independent shops
• Skilled - each step by hand to work with pelt - no uniform shape
|
|
John Jacob Astor
|
first to become millionaire in the beaver trade
|
|
Animal Rights
|
.Peta protests
.Fur farms cant remove animals from wild
.Humane mink farms
|
|
Faux Fur
|
Manufactured, fake fur
|
|
Fur Production
|
1. trappers, farmers, and ranchers who produce the pelts and sell at auctions
2. fur-processing companies
3. manufacturers of fur products
|
|
Steps of manufacturing
|
. Design sketch
. Paper pattern made of garment
. Canvas pattern
. Skins cut to exhibit fur to best advantage and minimize waste
. Skins sewn together
. Skins wetted and stapled to board to dry, sets them permanently
. Garment sections are sewn together
. Garment lined and finishe…
|
|
Letting Out
|
Small skins, like mink, are let out to make garment
Skins are cut and sewn back together with others to make larger skin
|
|
Primary Level
|
Raw materials of fashion
|
|
Secondary Level
|
Manufacturers, finished goods
|
|
Retail Level
|
Stores, distribution
|
|
Auxiliary Level
|
Advertising, Marketing
|
|
Franchise
|
. Contract that gives an individual right to own a business while benefitting from expertise and reputation of an established firm
. Responsible for 1/8 jobs in US
. Ex. Lululemon
|
|
Licensing
|
. Firms given permission to produce and market merchandise in the name of licensor for time period
. Receives 7-14% of wholesale price
. Ex. Patent of Crocs
|
|
Trademark
|
. Assures quality of fiber
. Federally registered
. Renewed
|
|
Natural Fiber
|
Cellulose
Cotton, Flax, Wool
|
|
Manufactured Fiber
|
Man-made, synthetic
Chemically produced
Polyester, Nylon, Rayon
|
|
Spinerette
|
Manufactures fibers
|
|
Cellulosic Fibers
|
Found in natural fibers of plants
|
|
End Uses of Textiles
|
36% Apparel
Industrial
Home Goods
|
AM 101: Final Exam