Accessories Book and class notes DVD Schmatta current state of the apparel industry in New York At one point over 90 percent of all clothing purchased in America was made in New York and the Garment Workers Union was powerful enough to negotiate living wages for employees as their endorsement could sway major elections However as unionism was demonized in the 1980s and many large firms found cheaper labor oversees where safe working conditions and fair pay were considered unnecessary luxuries the American garment industry began to shrink dramatically and by the end of the century a mere five percent of clothing sold in the United States was produced domestically Categories Footwear Hosiery and legwear Handbags Gloves Hats and headwear Neckwear Eyewear Jewelry top accessory costume and bridge jewelry Scarves Cross merchandising strategy used by apparel companies and retailers to combine apparel and accessories in their product offerings some apparel companies create their own accessories to coordinate w apparel Apparel others form agreements to produce Licensing is an important cross merchandising strategy Most shoe styles originated in Europe except Moccasin America Nike is largest shoe producer in US 1 3 of Market Major centers for footwear production in the U S include New England Nine West Timberland and St Louis Brown Shoe Company Regal and Airstep Categories of footwear Work shoes and boots Western casual boots Athletic footwear Dress shoes and Boots Casual shoes Sandals Hiking hunting and fishing boots Most shoes made in china Merchandising and Marketing The major U S market center for shoes is located in NYC Manufacturers advertise aggressively in national fashion magazines and on national TV Used leased departments in stores Catalog retailing is growing in men s shoe industry Shoe Trends Since the 1920s women s shoes have developed both in fashion importance and variety from functional purpose In the 90 s the market segmented along age and income lines Designer shoes for society leaders Stilettos for stars and models Working and younger women turning to comfort and solid footing Since the 80 s athletic shoes have proliferated and become a separate mature category The athletic shoe market has become more specialized with shoes for any activity walking running biking hiking and climbing Clothing designers designing shoes Tremendous growth of overseas manufacturing 98 of shoes are manufactured overseas Strong relationship between shoes and the clothes with which they are worn Apparel fashions influence more and more both the styling and color of footwear Retailers coordinating shoes and apparel Hosiery Flatknit AKA knit flat and a seam sewn down the center back vs full fashioned technique provided shaping to conform to the foot The first factory in the US was in the late 1860 s Hosiery history of development Circular knitting machines in the 19th century provided seamless except to close the toe stockings Early seamless stockings did not fit as well so when fashions shortened in the 1920 s flappers seamed stockings were preferred Increase in full fashion production from 26 in 1919 to 60 in 1929 to more than 80 in the 1950s 1938 DuPont s nylon fiber introduced at the world s fair WWII influence Pantyhose developed during the short hemlines of the 1960 s 1980 s started blending spandex and nylon N Day Nylon Stockings Blocking Boarding Nylon can be heat set so the foot and leg shape can be molded over a leg shaped board Handbags the bestselling classification within the accessories industry When first introduced handbags were nondescript utilitarian items Today s handbags are designed to send specific statements about the owner Millinery hats The late 20th century saw them evolve to status symbols Americans who wanted to distinguish themselves from immigrant peasants took care to wear hats Hats have become a must have item for hip hop wear Eyewear trends The market for designer sunglasses has exploded Designers have capitalized on the movement creating frames for glasses Jewelry categories Fine the high end precious segment It is often leased in department stores Handcraft industry Costume can be made of many different materials and occupies the lowest price point segment in the classification Produced in mass Bridge the middle ground for metals and stones Provides price points between fine and costume lead to increase in Sterling Silver Men s Apparel Industry History hasn t changed much It is the oldest of the domestic apparel industries Men s clothing is a signature of their status in life Almost always custom made until the late 1700s sped up ready to wear clothing nationwide success Since the sewing machine was introduced in 1846 the production of men s clothing has been The paper pattern was invented by Ebenezer Butterick in 1863 with improved sizing and fit for Since sportswear was introduced in California in the late 1940s the market has been expanded Designer clothing started in California in the 1940s but faded away Designer clothing by Pierre Cardin and John Weitz emerged again in 1960s with greater The Ivy League look was popular in the late 1950s The hippie look by long hair and beard jeans a tie dyed T shirt denim shirt flower patterned shirt and sandals was popular among men in the 1960s Knits made from synthetic fibers and polyester suits were popular in 1970s In the 1980s a variety of styles became acceptable The power suit was known in the 1980s The classic look became popular in the 1980s The casual look became popular in 1990s with dress down Fridays For the first time the U S men s wear market was segmented by age education and income The men s wear market continues growing Style remains an important factor in men s wear The classic look continues to be strong The conservative men s suit remains popular Dual Distribution sell through their own stores as well as through other retailers Short run Drop Slop Shop the early ready to wear stores for sailors Segments of men s wear 1 Sportswear 2 Tailored clothing 3 Activewear 4 Contemporary apparel 5 Bridge apparel The style gap between young men s and men s collections The price gap between contemporary and designer apparel Bridge customers are between 25 and 40 having sophistication and style The Menswear industry traditionally has been divided into firms that make different kinds of clothing 1 Tailored Clothing suits overcoats topcoats sports coats formal wear and separate trousers 2 Furnishings dress shirts