Anthropology of Clothing and Fashion Time, Space, Fashion ANTHRO 3373 Dr. Kedron Thomas !“The underlying unity of the fashion process in all cultural contexts … is the manipulation of appearance to enhance or maintain a positive self-image.” (Cannon, p. 25)FASHION = systematic style change • Social circumstances drive the change • Documentary evidence supports universalityHumans differentiate themselves using visual media.Social'change'and'material'varia1on''Great'Depression''Northwest'Coast'Potlatch'Muriel'King,'1939'Fashion(industry(v.((fashion(process(“Easier(access(to(styles(that(carried(status(associations(meant(that(recognition(of(social(position(was(in(a(much(more(constant(state(of(7lux.”((Cannon,(p.( 27)(容易接触到代表阶级的物品意味着⼈人们对社会阶级的认同“Demand(for(adornment(and(apparel(was(substantial,(su b ject (to(the(control(and( p a rticular(tastes(of(Native(consumers,(prone(to(frequent(change,(and(part(of(a(process(of(status(display(and(social(comparison.”((Cannon,(p.(29)((对饰品和⾐衣着的需求是⼤大量的，意味着控制并代表了原始⼈人的品味，倾向于经常变化，成为了显⽰示和⽐比较社会地位的⼀一种途径“Fashion'is'an'inherent'part'of'human'social'interac1on'and'not'the'crea1on'of'an'elite'group'of'design ers,'p roducers,'or'marketers.”'(Cannon,'p.'35)'((cannon认为，时尚是⼈人类的内部的，⾃自发的需求，⽽而不是精英设计师制造出的商品Fashion and society History is a cultural process Kroeber and the question of women’s fashion Order(in(Civiliza8on(“We are all in the habit of talking glibly about how this year’s fashion upsets that of last year. … But underneath this glittering maze, the major proportions of dress change with a slow majesty. … There is something in these phenomena, for all their reputed arbitrariness, that resembles what we call law.” (Kroeber, p. 258) fashion comes and goes,但是这背后是有law在操控的Against(the(“Great(Man”(theory(of(history( “What is it that causes fashion to drive so long and with ever increasing insistence toward the consummation of their ends, we do not know; but it is clear that the forces are social, and not the fortuitous appearance of personalities gifted with this taste or that faculty …” (Kroeber, p. 261) 帮助形成这种law的是社会的⼒力量并不是某⼀一天突然就冒出来⼀一个东⻄西Fashion is a “social fact” Human history is a social history“The reintroduction of the train in 1863 … may now be looked upon as the product of the dress styles that preceded them, or of other cultural factors affecting style” rather than “the talent of a specially gifted mind and hand. The wedge has entered.” (Kroeber, p. 261)Historical context Cultural change Socialized