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DM 120:Exam 5
Decorative fabrics
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textiles used for upholstery, draperies, wall hangings, and curtains marketed to manufacturers of furniture and draperies. ***does not include the manufactured (cut-and-sew) products
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Soft Floor coverings
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Textile products used as flooring material; soft distinguishes them from floor covering of tiles, linoleum, marble. Include:carpets, rugs, underlay material; area rugs.
pg.240
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Decorative Fabrics
Manufactured Products
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domestics, or home textiles and fabrics
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residential
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textile products used for houses, apartments, private residences
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Institutional Textiles
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Products such as beddings, towelings, and tabletop accessories designed and selected for use in such hospitality settings as motels, hotes, and restaurants; in such care-type facilities as hospitals; and in such commercial settings as penal institutions and dormitories
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Commercial-Contract
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Broad range of textile uses in office buildings, hotels, bank lobbies, airport decor, religious buildings, stores & restaurants. End use: upholstery; drapery; carpets; & wall applications.
Emphasis on function and performance
More expensive than residential.
pg. 243
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ACT
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promotes contract fabrics for its members, Symbols placed on contract fabrics,
provide assurance that they meet
suggested industry standards of
performance.
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Flammable Fabrics Act 1953
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prohibits the marketing of dangerously flammable material
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upholstered furniture action council
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(UFAC) Voluntary standards
for upholstered furniture – showing a UFAC label
• If a material is flammable, simply burns or is also combustible
• Degree of flammability
• How much smoke and toxic gas the material produces when ignited
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Upholstery fabrics
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subjected to greater in-use stress than other textiles- high abrasian resistance and strength, pleasing hand, colorfastness, no seam slipping, must not pill, flame resistant finish required in contract
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Up the bolt
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fabric placed so the warp is top to bottom (vertical)
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Railroading
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The directional feature of the fabric pattern & repeat determines whether a fabric should be cut up the bolt or be railroaded.
90 degrees from the up-the bolt direction. Ex: warp stripe would run vertically from the top to bottom of a chair.
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Carpet
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heavy fabric used for soft floor covering
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BROADLOOM
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(ONLY PERTAIN TON CARPET) ANY CARPET TUFTED OR WOVEN WIDER THAN 54 INCHES (THE MOST POPULAR WIDTHS ARE 12 FEET AND 15 FEET)
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Wall-to-wall carpet
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entire floor space, from baseboard to baseboard is covered
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Modular carpet
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square carpet material (18-36in)
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Pile portion
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the face side of carpeting
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tufted carpet
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has 2 fabric backings, primary anchors face yarns, secondary is bonded to add strength, stability, body
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Loop pile carpet
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similar surface to woven terrycloth
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level type carpet
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all loops are same height, good for traffic
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High-low carpet
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loops at different heights, pattern, less durable
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Cut pile
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cut pile loops leaving 2 tufts of yarn (velvet)
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plush carpet
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dense, level surface with deeper than normal cut pile
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frieze
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surface yarns have very high twist
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Carpet Fibers
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1. Nylon
predominant face fiber
excellent wear ability
soil and mildew resistant
anti-static properties achieved through the use of conductive filaments
2. Polypropylene (olefin)
good resistance to abrasion, soil and mildew
outdoor carpeting
3. Wool
excellent resilience and warmth
good soil, flame and solvent resistance
cleanable
4. Acrylic
approximates wool in appearance
good crush resistance
moisture and mildew resistant
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yarns in carpet
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bulked continuous filament- less likely than spun to pill
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printing for carpet
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Millitron printer- small jets of dye solution
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Linens
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general term for tablecloths, napkins, sheets, towels (flax usually)
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fabric count
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number of ends or picks or wales per inch- Yarns per inch: count individual or groups, stitches per inch- count stitches
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ounces per square yard
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weight of a piece of fabric 36" 36"
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Fabric performance testing
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-Involves formalized, exacting procedures and requires trained technical personnel and laboratory facilities for their undertaking
-Used for quality control, development of new fabrics, analysis of the cause of cloth problems, determination of the acceptable consumer performance level, and adherence to government regulations
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American Society for Testing and Materials Intl
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remember this i guess?
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Physical tests
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breaking strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, pilling
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Colorfastness tests
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to sunlight, washing, crocking
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Chemical tests
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Fiber ID, antibacterial, mercization in cotton
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optical tests
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grading of wool fibers, fiber ID, inspection of defects
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Breaking strength
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force required to break a fabric when it is under tension
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Appearance tests
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determine how fabrics will look after being used
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Pilling Propensity
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tendency of pills to form on a surface
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Wrinkle resistance
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-The property that enables a fabric to recover from being folded and from forming undesirable wrinkles
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Air permeability
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many variables; fiber crimp, yarn size, yarns per inch, thickness
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Dimensional change
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increase or decrease in the length or width of fabric; shrinkage, stretch
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Appearance change
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fabrics specially treated to maintain certain appearance properties after being laundered and dried
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flammability
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fabrics ability to burn
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Flammable
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easy to set on fire and sustain combustion
cotton, rayon, acetate, nylon, poly
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Flame resistant
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flaming combustion is prevented terminated, or inhibited
wool, silk
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Fire retardant
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resists combustion
modacryllic, flame retardant finishes
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Flameproof
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doesnt burn
glass, PBI, abestos
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Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes (gas fading)
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textile materials change color from exposure to atmosphere
acetate is worst
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Examining for suitability
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end use, performance expectations
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Fabric content
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understnading fiber properties
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yarn properties
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fibers affect aesthetics, Woolen/Worsted and Carded/Combed = woolen coarse &
fuzzy, worsted smooth & uniform. Combed/worsted better
and more costly.
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Colorfastness
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related to chemistry of fibers, dyes, pigments, penetration & fixation
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bleeding
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loss of color in water or other solutions
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fading
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color loss due to perspiration gas, sunlight, dyes degraded.
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Migration
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color movement to adjacent areas or fabrics
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Crocking
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color transfer to another fabric or skin from rubbing togehter
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tendering
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destruction of fabric due to reaction of dye and fiber, caused by heat, light, atmospheric contamination
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Frosting
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colored portion of fabric lost by abrasion (due to poor dye penetration
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Water soluble soils
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dissolved in water; soda, coffee
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Non water soluble, or organic soils
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removed by the assistance of a detergent or soap and heat
fruit, vegetable, oils and grease
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Surfactants
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Reduces surface tension by disrupting the cohesive forces between water molecules
In humans, surfactant synthesis does not begin until late gestation
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Dry Cleaning
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articles cleaned in organic solvent cleansing fluid and tumbled in machine- not water based
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Dry cleaning solvents
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Perc- #1 used today, toxic fumes
hydrocarbons- toxicity and environmental impact
liquid CO2, expensive
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Professional wet cleaning
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uses more controls that washing; temp, water levels, mechanical agitation, soaps, cleaning additives
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Washing symbols
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dots indicate increasing heat or temp; lines mean reduced action or treatment
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Textile fiber products identification act
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fiber content of textiles must be contained on label attached to item; generic fiber names, % by weight, country of origin, ID number, contents of components seperately
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Wool products labeling act
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protect manufactures and consumers from wool fiber substitutes
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Flammable Fabrics Act
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Requires a formal certification known as a guarantee that verifies that a fabric has met the minimum requirements under the appropriate federal code.
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care labeling rule
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requires apparel to carry a permanently affixed label with instruction on regular care
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biodegradable
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ability to degrade quickly
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green product
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color green symbolizes product that is favorable to environment
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Sustainability
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indicates products impact on environmental systems over the lifetime of a product
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Cradle-to-cradle
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focus on reclaiming and recycling post-consumer materials into useful products
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organic cotton
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government certified 3 years or more of organic farming practices
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transition cotton
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cotton produced on land that has been organically farmed for less than 3 years
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Slow fashion
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designing, producing, consuming, and living better. not time-based, but Quality- based.
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Environmental Protection agency
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regulates water, air, noise pollution and waste disposal
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Resource Conservation and Recovery act
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controls hazardous waste with cradle-to-grave system requirement
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pollution prevention act
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minimize waste, improve treatment of toxic chemicals, encourage recycling
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